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AndyFortis

10:55PM | 12/02/00
Member Since: 12/02/00
2 lifetime posts
Bvplumbing

I just bought a cabin that has a shallow well with an above-ground electric pump that sits on a small tank. The cabin is heated. The water system was drained and winterized. I want to restore water service year-round. I installed heat tape around the tank, pump and incoming pipes. When I turned on the pump's circuit breaker, the pump is running and the heat tape is working but I'm not getting any water (or even air being forced through the pipes). The gauge on the motor didn't register any pressure after about 30 minutes so I shut it down. Do I need to prime the pump motor? If so, how do I do that?

Jack of All

05:22PM | 12/03/00
Member Since: 12/02/00
9 lifetime posts
Priming the pump may get you up and pumping again, but why did the pump loose prime? After you prime the pump by pouring water into the input side of the pump, there should be a fitting on top of the diapharm section of the pump, I would check to make sure the back flow preventer (check-valve) is functioning correctly. If the pump is turning on and off without any spigots or faucets on, water maybe running back into the well (loosing prime). Check-valves can get mineral deposit build-up or just wear out.

AndyFortis

06:01AM | 12/06/00
Member Since: 12/02/00
2 lifetime posts
Thanks for answering. (I was expecting an e-mail notification that there was a reply, but it didn't work.) I'm in Minnesota and the pump had been turned off and winterized with RV anti-freeze for the winter. The previous owner doesn't live close enough to make the trip during the winter but I do, so I'm trying to restore water service "year-round".

It appears to me that the vacuum hose from the motor to the "diaphragm" on the tank might have some frozen water in it. (The pump was turned on momentarily to get a sample for a water-quality test before closing.) If I try to heat the hose it will probably melt/crack. If I try to take it off I'm certain it will crack. I guess I'm going to have to wait until spring when global warming returns.

[This message has been edited by AndyFortis (edited December 06, 2000).]

Jack of All

04:42PM | 12/17/00
Member Since: 12/02/00
9 lifetime posts
Andy,

What's a letter or two between fellow do-it-yourselfers.

If water has frozen in the "diaphragm" section of the pump, warming it now or later will not matter. It may have already cracked.

If you do not decide to use the cabin year round... you may want to put in a "frost-free" tap. It allows the water to drain out of the pipe.

Jack of All

04:42PM | 12/17/00
Member Since: 12/02/00
9 lifetime posts
Andy,

What's a letter or two between fellow do-it-yourselfers.

If water has frozen in the "diaphragm" section of the pump, warming it now or later will not matter. It may have already cracked.

If you do not decide to use the cabin year round... you may want to put in a "frost-free" tap. It allows the water to drain out of the pipe.

Jack of All

04:43PM | 12/17/00
Member Since: 12/02/00
9 lifetime posts
Andy,

What's a letter or two between fellow do-it-yourselfers.

If water has frozen in the "diaphragm" section of the pump, warming it now or later will not matter. It may have already cracked.

If you do not decide to use the cabin year round... you may want to put in a "frost-free" tap. It allows the water to drain out of the pipe.

Jack of All

04:44PM | 12/17/00
Member Since: 12/02/00
9 lifetime posts
Andy,

What's a letter or two between fellow do-it-yourselfers.

If water has frozen in the "diaphragm" section of the pump, warming it now or later will not matter. It may have already cracked.

If you do not decide to use the cabin year round... you may want to put in a "frost-free" tap. It allows the water to drain out of the pipe.

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