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Wuf_ca

11:42AM | 01/03/03
Member Since: 01/02/03
1 lifetime posts
Bvplumbing
Hi,

I'm totally new to this (both the bulletin board and plumbing) but here I go....

I am replacing my kitchen sink and faucet (as well as cabinets). My problem is that I believe that the sink trap and pipes may be lead all the way to the stack pipe (vertical pipe). What's also interesting is that the stack pipe below the kitchen sink is copper pipe but above the kitchen sink, it seems to be lead. Some plumbers that I talked to over the phone said that if the sink pipe is lead, to replace the sink properly, I would have to replace a lot of the pipes back to the central drainage area (and dig up my walls). If the stack pipe near the sink (and below the sink) is copper, my feeling is that this would be unnecessary - so my questions are:
1) how can I tell if my sink trap pipe and stack pipe above the sink is lead or cast iron (it's definitely not sounding like copper when I knock it. When I scrape it, it's a bright orange-ish colour)?
2) If it is lead, I will need to replace it (none of the plumbers are willing to work with the lead pipe - they will only replace it), so:
A) Would I just need to replace the pipe to the copper portion (which starts on the stack pipe below the sink)? and
B) Would I also need to replace the potentially lead stack pipe above the sink?

Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks and Happy New Year!

abutchek

08:40PM | 02/13/05
Member Since: 02/13/05
1 lifetime posts
I HAVE A LEAD DRAIN PIPE ON MY BATH TUBE. IT GOES TO A CYLINDER TYPE TRAP WITH A VENT PIPE ON TOP OF IT AND THEN IT GOES TO A CAST IRON PIPE, WHICH GOES TO THE MAIN CAST IRON TRUNK PIPE GOING OUT TO THE STREET. I WANT TO REMOVE THE LEAD PIPE AND REPLACE IT WITH PVC PIPE. CAN YOU LEAVE THE LEAD JOINT AT CAST IRON PIPE IN PLACE AND LEAVE ABOUT 6" OF THE LEAD PIPE TO SPLICE ON THE PVC PIPE TO AND DO THE SAME WITH THE LEAD VENT PIPE. I'M TRYING TO REPLACE THE LEAD DRAIN PIPE AND TRAP OFF OF THE BATH TUB WITHOUT REPLACING THE VENT PIPE AND AVOID THE LEAD JOINT AT THE CAST IRON? THANK YOU.

LonnythePlumber

04:36AM | 02/14/05
You should probably replace all the lead pipe. It gets old and cracks. The problem with hooking to lead with a clamp is that the lead tends to slowly crush in. Sometimes a piece of pipe can be inserted into the lead to help prevent this but it is still a weak connection.

It would be better to cut off the cast iron where the outside of the pipe is smooth without a seam or raised lettering. Sometimes we use a side grinder to round the pipe fairly smooth.

You can also melt the solder off the brass ferrell that is caulked into the case iron. In this case you need to remove all the lead sticking into the pipe. Then you can connect with a no-hub or solid banded rubber clamp. It is better to eliminate all the cast iron drainage pipe you can because it tends to close off. Particularly where it connects to a larger pipe. I usually have to dig the pipe back open with a wood chisel.

The lead cylinder is called a drum trap.
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