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mark4man

05:15PM | 07/24/05
Member Since: 07/20/05
17 lifetime posts
Bvplumbing
[B]Crew...[/B]

As part of the same bathroom gutting/remodeling undertaking (in my Step Son's recently purchased home) that prompted an inquiry from me over in Electrical Wiring...he finally got the floor disassembled right down to the joist bays (save for one small square of original flooring which supports the toilet.)

Today I peered into the floor under that toilet while visiting...in hopes of finding an easy solution to replacing the existing tub & sink drain lines...but it doesn't look so easy after all.

There is what looks to be a 1 - 1/2" aluminum or steel lateral (from the old vanity) running to the 4" the soil line (in the area of the toilet base); & an 1-1/2" copper lateral (from the old tub) running to same.

I was hoping to replace them both with PVC, but I've never run across the type of coupling that joins the drains to the soil line. There is a hole in the side (of the soil line) for each, of approximately 3 to 3-1/2" in diameter, with a metal funnel shaped collar piece emanating from the opening. The funnel shape tapers down to the diameter of the laterals, where they look to be brazed or soldered together. Not sure what exactly holds the base of the funnel collar inside the opening in the side of the soil line.

So I'm wondering...does anybody know what this is?

& even more importantly...once I remove everything...is there some sort of expanding PVC or hard rubber base that can be inserted in the holes in the soil line & secured...to accept the new 1-1/2" PVC drains?

Thanks very much,

[B]mark4man[/B]


doug seibert

08:06AM | 07/25/05
Member Since: 08/10/02
843 lifetime posts
The black pipes and hubs are cast iron.....

the shiney laterals are probably galvanized....the bottoms tend to rust out especially in old, slow...low pitch drains that have seen drain cleaners......

....the old joint is made from treated rope forced into the bell and then hot lead poured into the joint !

For your DIY remodel.....you need to see Fernco or Mission products......

Rubber hubless connectors join straight walled sections together......(cut the galv and join to the PVC)

or

Donuts connect the straight pipe to the bell......sometimes hard to install (lube and pound into place)....fit the PVC directly into the cast iron hub

doug seibert

08:28AM | 07/25/05
Member Since: 08/10/02
843 lifetime posts
http://www.fernco.com/Donut.html

They are available in hundreds of size combinations........measure the hub and order to within 1/32" ...........

mark4man

10:14AM | 07/25/05
Member Since: 07/20/05
17 lifetime posts
Doug...

These are holes in the SIDE of the 4" soil line. How would I adapt to those?

Thanks,

mark4man

mark4man

02:57PM | 07/25/05
Member Since: 07/20/05
17 lifetime posts
Follow Up...

Better yet...how difficult is it to fit new 4" PVC to the existing cast iron stack (i.e., how does the plastic connect inside the cast iron bell?) The stack comes up through the chase; & of course Y's off to the soil line. I would be inclined to configure all the bathroom drainage with new PVC, but I'm worried about connecting the 4" PVC into the cast iron Y. Is that an easy thing?

Thanks very much,

mark4man


doug seibert

02:18PM | 07/26/05
Member Since: 08/10/02
843 lifetime posts
The joint is made with oakum and hot lead.......

treated rope is pounded into the void around the pipe and hot lead is poured and then hammered into the joint......

I'm not a plumber.....I used the oakum and a commercial one-part plastic plumbers compound..........

Leaving a "stub" and a rubber boot is easier......
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