I just purchased a 2HP plunge router (Craftsman) and wanted to know the best way to accomplish a task.
I have a 1x2 piece of oak that I need to rout a groove into along one edge. I do not have a router table. Advice is appreciated.
-Heather in WA
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Hello Heather,
I'm not sure if I'll help here or just add yet more confusion....but here I go, with some options:
Hardwood flooring stores sell router bits for grooves as you say. But I must say, when I saw the price of these bits, I balked and had to find another way! (I didn't, after all, have all that much to do.)
So I used my table saw. I even used a biscuit joiner and a chisel in one small area (for floorboards I was doing around a built-in heating register).
As for router tables, I have seen decent looking ones at Costco for $40. I still haven't sprung for one of these--as I have an old contrivance that does quite well. Router tables can get fancy, but really don't need to be all that grandiose to do the job.
Of all these ideas, I still kind of like the table saw best. Hand-holding a 2HP plunge router can be formidable, and you can end up splintering/ruining your work. Plus, routers are directional and you need to be sure you're going the right way.
If you buy the special grooving router bit, take care--always respect that there's a chunk of steel spinning at 25000 RPM down there. But have fun with it! Routers are actually (in my opinion) enjoyable to use.
One more thing about routers: it's been said that the router itself is the cheapest part of the purchase. I've found decent bit sets at Costco--but if you get into specialized stuff you can run up a small fortune in bits.
Good luck Heather; keep us posted as to your progress--and how these ideas stack up relative to your thought processes.
Regards,
-k2 in CO
Moderator, Miscellaneous Forum
http://www.bobvila.com/BBS/Miscellaneous
I'm not sure if I'll help here or just add yet more confusion....but here I go, with some options:
Hardwood flooring stores sell router bits for grooves as you say. But I must say, when I saw the price of these bits, I balked and had to find another way! (I didn't, after all, have all that much to do.)
So I used my table saw. I even used a biscuit joiner and a chisel in one small area (for floorboards I was doing around a built-in heating register).
As for router tables, I have seen decent looking ones at Costco for $40. I still haven't sprung for one of these--as I have an old contrivance that does quite well. Router tables can get fancy, but really don't need to be all that grandiose to do the job.
Of all these ideas, I still kind of like the table saw best. Hand-holding a 2HP plunge router can be formidable, and you can end up splintering/ruining your work. Plus, routers are directional and you need to be sure you're going the right way.
If you buy the special grooving router bit, take care--always respect that there's a chunk of steel spinning at 25000 RPM down there. But have fun with it! Routers are actually (in my opinion) enjoyable to use.
One more thing about routers: it's been said that the router itself is the cheapest part of the purchase. I've found decent bit sets at Costco--but if you get into specialized stuff you can run up a small fortune in bits.
Good luck Heather; keep us posted as to your progress--and how these ideas stack up relative to your thought processes.
Regards,
-k2 in CO
Moderator, Miscellaneous Forum
http://www.bobvila.com/BBS/Miscellaneous
Use a slotting cutter bit with a bearing.
http://www.freud-tools.com/freudcutset.html
That is a picture of one.
http://www.altereagle.com/
http://decks-ca.com
http://kingofcrown.com
Alter Eagle Construction & Design
http://www.freud-tools.com/freudcutset.html
That is a picture of one.
http://www.altereagle.com/
http://decks-ca.com
http://kingofcrown.com
Alter Eagle Construction & Design
I guess "groove" was the wrong terminology. I need to cut a bevel (or even a 90 degree wedge) off the corner along one of the long edges. But because I have a plunge router, which is recommended for cuts out of the center, I don't even know if this can be done.
Profile:
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Don't look at the drawing. The b-board messed it up. Like you bevel the edge of a countertop, I need to to that to a 1x2. Thanks.
Hello again Heather,
Just get the proper bit. It'll have a small ball-bearing ring around it. THis ring rests against the work (so you don't need a router table)--the work will be beveled above the ring. Is this making sense?
You'll still need to support the work--as your router will apply pressure to it. Don't attempt to 'freehand' it. The base of the router will sit on the work (you won't be 'plunging'). Remember to go the right direction. Take your time, be careful, and have fun!
Regards,
-k2 in CO
Moderator, Miscellaneous Forum
http://www.bobvila.com/BBS/Miscellaneous
Just get the proper bit. It'll have a small ball-bearing ring around it. THis ring rests against the work (so you don't need a router table)--the work will be beveled above the ring. Is this making sense?
You'll still need to support the work--as your router will apply pressure to it. Don't attempt to 'freehand' it. The base of the router will sit on the work (you won't be 'plunging'). Remember to go the right direction. Take your time, be careful, and have fun!
Regards,
-k2 in CO
Moderator, Miscellaneous Forum
http://www.bobvila.com/BBS/Miscellaneous
Hi again Heather,
I guess I'm not thinking too clearly, after hearing about Plumber Tom.
The bit is called a "chamfer bit." You'll probably want a 45-degree and it'll have the ball-bearing guide that I mentioned. I did an internet search it and found many hits, including this one which has a pretty good picture (I recommend you do your own search ase well). http://woodworker.com/cgi-bin/FULLPRES.exe?PARTNUM=40-100&LARGEVIEW=ON
These bits are easy to come by--your local hardware or big box should have'm--perhaps even in some nice sets.
Get a carbide-tipped bit; the extra cost makes up for itself not only in longevity--but in fewer ruined workpieces.
Also, as the ball bearing guide follows the wood edge very closely, you'll want to be sure the edge is as even as possible!
Good luck.
Regards,
-k2 in CO
Moderator, Miscellaneous Forum
http://www.bobvila.com/BBS/Miscellaneous
I guess I'm not thinking too clearly, after hearing about Plumber Tom.
The bit is called a "chamfer bit." You'll probably want a 45-degree and it'll have the ball-bearing guide that I mentioned. I did an internet search it and found many hits, including this one which has a pretty good picture (I recommend you do your own search ase well). http://woodworker.com/cgi-bin/FULLPRES.exe?PARTNUM=40-100&LARGEVIEW=ON
These bits are easy to come by--your local hardware or big box should have'm--perhaps even in some nice sets.
Get a carbide-tipped bit; the extra cost makes up for itself not only in longevity--but in fewer ruined workpieces.
Also, as the ball bearing guide follows the wood edge very closely, you'll want to be sure the edge is as even as possible!
Good luck.
Regards,
-k2 in CO
Moderator, Miscellaneous Forum
http://www.bobvila.com/BBS/Miscellaneous
Thanks k2, I'll look into getting that bit. I don't even know if this came with one. I'm glad to know I don't have to exchange the router. I'd like to use it to flute some finish carpentry someday.
Hi again Heather,
I wouldn't exchange the router, at least not for that reason. I personally don't have a plunge router (at least yet). I have a couple; a heavy old 1/2" for serious business and a light 1/4" mostly for mounting under my contrived table. Plenty of times I like having one that's just lightweight (I must be getting old!, LOL!)
And, it's certainly not bad to have more than one! It can be handy to have bits pre-loaded on different routers for different tasks.
They're fun; crank it up, listen to that sweet whine and watch them chips fly! Very satisfying!
Regards,
-k2 in CO
Moderator, Miscellaneous Forum
http://www.bobvila.com/BBS/Miscellaneous
I wouldn't exchange the router, at least not for that reason. I personally don't have a plunge router (at least yet). I have a couple; a heavy old 1/2" for serious business and a light 1/4" mostly for mounting under my contrived table. Plenty of times I like having one that's just lightweight (I must be getting old!, LOL!)
And, it's certainly not bad to have more than one! It can be handy to have bits pre-loaded on different routers for different tasks.
They're fun; crank it up, listen to that sweet whine and watch them chips fly! Very satisfying!
Regards,
-k2 in CO
Moderator, Miscellaneous Forum
http://www.bobvila.com/BBS/Miscellaneous
...the plunge can be locked in position too.
A neat trick I use for counter tops is to attach a pice of maple or oak 1x to the face (keep nails clear of the chamfer) install the laminate then chanfer the edge.. it ends up looking like an inlay.
http://www.altereagle.com/remodel_5/IMAG0000.JPG
Like the above kitchen we did.
http://www.altereagle.com/
http://decks-ca.com
http://kingofcrown.com
Alter Eagle Construction & Design
A neat trick I use for counter tops is to attach a pice of maple or oak 1x to the face (keep nails clear of the chamfer) install the laminate then chanfer the edge.. it ends up looking like an inlay.
http://www.altereagle.com/remodel_5/IMAG0000.JPG
Like the above kitchen we did.
http://www.altereagle.com/
http://decks-ca.com
http://kingofcrown.com
Alter Eagle Construction & Design
