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sleekster

01:18PM | 02/15/06
Member Since: 02/14/06
1 lifetime posts
Bvplumbing
Hi,

I noticed water coming out of the floor on the first floor when using the 2nd floor bathroom fixtures. We noticed the 4" DWV stack to be the source, and upon removing the wall, saw a large crack the iron DWV pipe. The house is 95 years old, so I think it's original.

I have to replace the moldy plaster/drywall/wood paneling, but I'm calling a plumber and want to understand what I need to do and what can be done about the crack. The fitting at the top of the section of pipe that is cracked is visible, but the pipe continues down to the basement. It's in the corner and I can't see the fitting at the basement.

How much am I looking at and what can be done? There is already 1 patch in this section of pipe probably done 25 years ago.

Thanks,

Bryan

please also respond to sleekster@yahoo.com

Sylvan

04:05PM | 02/15/06
Member Since: 01/24/06
1449 lifetime posts
Me_office1
Considering the cast iron is 95 years old and gave a very long useful life I personally would allow it to retire with dignity.

I would also not hesitate for one split second to replace this piping with No Hub cast iron and a mission coupling that allows a transition from extra heavy cast iron

(If that is what is there instead of stand weight) and go NH x XHCI adapter.

Cast iron is not only the quiet pipe it has a proven track record lasting several hundred years if properly installed.

Cast Iron is safe (non carcinogenic) easy to recycle NOT SO with plastic, CI is non toxic and does not add fuel to a fire.

CI adds value to a home and much less probability of needing maintenance like a plastic system does as CI gives one a choice of longer radius pattern fittings.

One can cut CI with a grinder, snap cutter, cut off wheel, etc., and can adapt to the existing via couplings like No Hub or Mission or even a caulked joint into an existing hub.

If the plumber suggests using plastic, personally I would thank him for his time and tell him/her please do not let the door hit you in the ARSE on your way out.

Then go to Sears or another other big box store get a how to book on plastic and buy a hack saw, tape measure, decent quality mask and do the installation yourself if the local folks cant do CI.

It does not take a highly skilled craftsman to install plastic, especially if replacing the piping design already there.

You can always tell a professional installation by looking for the obvious supports

Clevis hangers properly spaced by the diameter and material of the piping

Riser clamps also known as pipe rests

Band Iron, you may as well use tie wire that the guys use on rebar installation but not for plumbing.

What amazes me is folks have a home over 100 years old with cast iron piping and decided to install plastic piping under ground for a heating system.

Then to no ones surprise it fails sometimes with in a year or two and everyone points a finger as how can this have happened?

The same with a proven quality product like copper and cast THEY LAST and last if properly installed.

Your DVW did an amazing job until recently why fiddle with success?

I am only giving you my opinion for a professional installation as I would accept no less for my own home or any of my accounts.

One great point about NO HUB every single connection is a possible clean out.

Even Charlotte pipe and foundry the makers of plastic and cast says use Cast for waste and if you want to (settle) use plastic for venting.

FYI many of the insurance companies I have worked for picked up the entire bill for the opening of the walls, floors and restoration and did not pay for the actual piping replacement. Check your policy

Make sure your contractor is the licensed master plumber actually working on the job, make sure he/she is licensed and find out if filing has to be performed.

Good luck
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