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kennybopaloo

05:25PM | 05/20/06
Member Since: 03/19/04
30 lifetime posts
Bvplumbing
On our 7 year old electric water, I drained a few gallons some months ago to get dark black water, grit, and sand. Since then everytime I try to drain water, she just trickles out very, very slowly. Any input on this problem??

My father inlaw says to shut off the cold water supply on top, turn on some of the nearest hot water faucets, and blow air into the drain valve.

What are your thoughts?

Thanks,

Kennybopaloo

Sylvan

07:26AM | 05/21/06
Member Since: 01/24/06
1566 lifetime posts
Me_office1
7 year old replace it as the sediment is blocking the drain bib and this same sediment is robbing you of energy required to heat the water.

By the way does your father in law have a hefty life insurance on you?

Being trained by ASME section IV and the NBBI standards for unfired pressure vessels and low pressure boilers the very first thing I was told NEVER,EVER ,EVER pump "air" into a pressure vessel or test piping OTHER then gas lines with air.

If you really want to try to save this tank shut off the electric let it cool connect a hose to the bottom valve outlet open the T&P connect the hose with a hose coupling to another hose bib and turn it on to back flush the tank.

By the way the T&P which is the only safety device on the water heater also should have been tested /replaced as it too must be full of sediment around the probe.

My best suggestion is replace it and when you have the new one test the T&P as directed and read the manufacturers literature on servicing (periodic blow down)

Good luck

kennybopaloo

08:54AM | 05/21/06
Member Since: 03/19/04
30 lifetime posts


Thank you very much for your professional help. I will try what you said.

I dont understand what you meant by the

T& P, can you please explain..

Thanks Kennybopaloo............


Sylvan

04:51PM | 05/21/06
Member Since: 01/24/06
1566 lifetime posts
Me_office1
A T&P valve is temperature or pressure relieving device, this is a combination of a relief (liquid) and safety (vapor like steam or air)

The normal setting of a T&P for residential heaters is 150 PSI and or 210 degree's F

If you ever took a balloon as a child and popped it it give a boom (explosion) this is the reasoning behind the no air testing. Now take another balloon fill it with water and it plops open harmlessly.

What we just learned is Hydrostatic testing is safe Air is not.

The only safety device on a domestic water heater is the T&P the other features are "operating" controls unlike a boiler which has redundancy in safety devices.

This is the reasoning the National Board Of Boiler Inspectors (NBBI) and the ASME consider a low pressure water boiler to be rated up to 160 PSI or 250 degrees and a steam boiler to be rated at 15 PSI.

There is a whole lot more to plumbing then pushing air through a system or walking around with channel locks and a plunger.

Please feel free to e mail me if you want any more information and tell your father in law that plumbing does require a license in most civilized areas and his advice is not only wrong it is dangerous.

If he doesn't believe me, then hand the gentleman 2 balloons :-)


kennybopaloo

05:44PM | 05/21/06
Member Since: 03/19/04
30 lifetime posts


Thanks again for your detailed info on my problem. I will take your experience and your expertise as LAW.

I will tell the wife that we should get a new unit and save all the aggravation of trying to salvage this unit.

Thanks Again,

Kennybopaloo

Sylvan

06:17AM | 05/23/06
Member Since: 01/24/06
1566 lifetime posts
Me_office1
Your very welcome...

Sylvan

06:19AM | 05/23/06
Member Since: 01/24/06
1566 lifetime posts
Me_office1
By the way if possible buy any brand BUT A O Smith IMHO

State, Rheem, Bradford White etc
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