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jglewis205

01:05PM | 06/02/06
Member Since: 06/01/06
1 lifetime posts
Bvplumbing
While doing work at my elderly mother's house recently, I noticed that the copper overflow pipe that comes off the pressure relief valve on the water heater that Sears installed several years ago is not connected. The pipe has an elbo joint that leads to the back of the heater, and was left wide open. Luckily, the valve has not released any water, as it could do some major damage. My question is what is the best way to fix the problem. The water heater is in a basement, and there is a door between it and the outside wall. I would have to run a pipe up and over the door opening. My other choice is to run a pipe to the pump that is connected to the adjacent air conditioning unit, but would the pump be able to handle the full flow of the pressure relief valve if it should release at full pressure?

Sylvan

06:45AM | 06/03/06
Member Since: 01/24/06
1449 lifetime posts
Me_office1
I have found from personal experience that "plumbers" who work for the big box stores are not the sharpest crayons in the box.IMHO

Some contractors cannot make a decent living relying on their skills thus they settle on working for another company as installers rather then bothering to learn the NBBI or ASME, NFPA codes regarding the proper location and design of relief piping.

The T&P piping should be piped to a safe area with no more then 2 ells and be full size and the end of the pipe should be cut in such a way that no fitting can be placed on the end.

Piping to the out side also has limitations such as possible frost (winter conditions) or the possibility of the T&P discharging and someone walking by and getting scalded.

Local codes always seem to like to get involved with the ASME and I would suggest you look into your local code book and then call the installers back (at no charge to you) and tell them you want the piping installed according to the code in your area.
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