I'm in the process of remodeling my bathroom which includes pulling up all the floor tile. So I am also going to have to remove the floor flange for the toilet and reinstall a new one. All the drain lines are cast iron and I need to make a transition to the cast iron coupling directly below the stool. The cast iron pipe I will be connecting to has a poured lead seal from the pipe coming from the exsisting floor flange. What's the correct way to make this transition? Oh, and to make it more interesting I only have about 10 inches below the floor to make this transition before it makes a 90 degree turn to tie into the main. Thanks in advance for any advice....
COMMUNITY FORUM
should prove interresting!
the lead is mixed with horse hair... which is called 'etoupe' and is the old technique to fit 2 cast iron pipes together in a sealed manner.
I am also in the process of remodeling my bathroom... I have already coupled an existing 4" cast iron down drain pipe with a small length of ABS using a thick rubber coupler with 2 collars that you tighten. it's been holding for the past 5 years already... so if i were you, i'd leave enough of the old cast iron pipe so i could fit it with this rubber connector... about 3" is sufficient.
on the other hand... try and leave as much cast iron as you can in you plumbing... might look ugly... but at least it is QUIET when water runs down the pipe... what i'll do once i am there in my remodeling... i'll try and find cast iron piping for all my behind the wall bathroom plumbing!
happy trails!
the lead is mixed with horse hair... which is called 'etoupe' and is the old technique to fit 2 cast iron pipes together in a sealed manner.
I am also in the process of remodeling my bathroom... I have already coupled an existing 4" cast iron down drain pipe with a small length of ABS using a thick rubber coupler with 2 collars that you tighten. it's been holding for the past 5 years already... so if i were you, i'd leave enough of the old cast iron pipe so i could fit it with this rubber connector... about 3" is sufficient.
on the other hand... try and leave as much cast iron as you can in you plumbing... might look ugly... but at least it is QUIET when water runs down the pipe... what i'll do once i am there in my remodeling... i'll try and find cast iron piping for all my behind the wall bathroom plumbing!
happy trails!
Using a piece of flexible rubber with one hose clamp on either end is not really the best job for preventing a sagging joint or piping integrity
The mission coupling is designed to be water and gas tight and is designed fro piping with different out side diameters
I could have suggested using a "caulked " joint with molten lead and oakum as I use this type of joint constantly when with bell and spigot cast iron.
The use of the rubber only with the hose clamp connectors is not allowed in the better plumbing codes.
There are no hub couplings that also could work with the stainless steel around the rubber but it looks a little sloppy when mixing various out side diameter piping.
Here is a finished poured joint
The mission coupling is designed to be water and gas tight and is designed fro piping with different out side diameters
I could have suggested using a "caulked " joint with molten lead and oakum as I use this type of joint constantly when with bell and spigot cast iron.
The use of the rubber only with the hose clamp connectors is not allowed in the better plumbing codes.
There are no hub couplings that also could work with the stainless steel around the rubber but it looks a little sloppy when mixing various out side diameter piping.
Here is a finished poured joint
