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t1tleist

10:47AM | 05/18/07
Member Since: 05/17/07
6 lifetime posts
Bvplumbing
Please bear with me - I know just enough to be dangerous.

I have installed a new granite counter and attached sink in the bathroom. Had no problem hooking up the faucet or supply lines, but the new sink is lower than the old. Short of paying someone to move my supply line coming out of the wall, how can I make the stub out hook into the drain pipe (they are about 5 inches apart which is wider than the normal P trap)? I have bought all sorts of P traps, flexible tubes, etc. Some plumber at HD told me to lengthen the stub out, but I'm not I want to tackle that without some more advice. My stub out is attached with a metal nut to a pipe that curves down, so I can't lengthen without removing it.

Sylvan

01:57PM | 05/18/07
Member Since: 01/24/06
1507 lifetime posts
Me_office1
FIRST big mistake thinking the guy at a home center is remotely qualified even as a "plumbers" apprentice.

If this guy is a plumber he would A have his own masters license and charging upwards of $150 per hr

Or

B working for someone and getting like I pay my mechanics $45 per hr NOT working in a home center for just above minimum wage.

If he said he is a plumber ask for anything documentation other then his say so Would you believe a guy saying he is a doctor stocking shelves?
9226-tieger_plumbing

doug seibert

04:18AM | 05/19/07
Member Since: 08/10/02
843 lifetime posts
Of course the sink/bottom must be above the height of the existing wall drain......

The "curved-down-piece" is called the TRAP ARM.....it's part of the tubular P-Trap......it extends into the DWV pipes and can be adjusted in/out of the wall

The TAILPIECE extends down from the sink.......

The "nut" at the wall is part of the female trap adapter.......remove it from the wall and you'll find a plastic or rubber washer that fits tight on the trap arm and into a recess on the trap adapter......KEEP AND RE-USE THIS NUT AND WASHER if possible.......

The tubular pipes can be PVC or metal.....If you choose metal buy the heaviest set you can find $$$

The pipe sizes can be a combination of 1 1/4" and 1 1/2"........Various washers both plastic and rubber as well as tapered and square are available to connect one size to another.....usually the packaged kit will have several options.........

The Trap arm and tailpiece can be cut to fit the situation.....or if necessary you can lengthen them w/extensions.........

Cut the tubes with a hacksaw and clean and smooth any burrs before assembly.....

All the parts rotate and swivel to provide a wide variety of possible configurations.........

So now can you assemble a watertight P-trap......cutting and fitting between the female trap adapter and the sink tailpiece ? Remember as a DIY'er it's a learning experience........

Remember these "important" plumber facts.....

It all flows downhill.......

Don't bite your fingernails.......

See the guy at HD was actually correct......."replace/extend the trap arm....."

"...measure once.....cut twice....throw that one away and cut a new one...."

t1tleist

10:54AM | 05/19/07
Member Since: 05/17/07
6 lifetime posts
Umm, not sure where the advice was in that post... No, I wasn't listening to a store associate, I was talking to a gentleman who was a plumber for 40 years before retiring. I'll just follow Doug's help below.

t1tleist

10:57AM | 05/19/07
Member Since: 05/17/07
6 lifetime posts
Good step by step advice. Just wanted to make sure that I wasn't causing more harm by removing and replacing anything affixed to my house. I might be posting again soon - thanks!

JONINSACTO

05:54AM | 05/21/07
Member Since: 02/03/03
77 lifetime posts
Yeah T1tleist, you are right Tieger didn't offer advice to you. However this is usually the case with his replies. He usually is just negative about other's advice and picks it apart. Anyway, hope you get your drain hooked up !

Sylvan

12:50PM | 05/21/07
Member Since: 01/24/06
1507 lifetime posts
Me_office1
He said it all
9242-harold_was_right
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