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latexia707

11:48AM | 07/25/07
Member Since: 11/01/06
34 lifetime posts
Bvplumbing
cars...

in my never ending project of redoing my bathroom, i plan on moving the toilet to the opposite side of the room... so it will roughly be 12' away from its previos place.

what sould be the pitch for proper evacuation? also, i intend to put 2 45degrees (in opposite direction) in order to reconnect the waste line to the main drain... is that Kascher or not?

as for abs... i am not going to use it as it is way too noisy after a flush... i'll go cast iron... am i doing the right thing or is there a new product on the market and that is noiseless?

thanks in advance!

Sylvan

07:30AM | 07/27/07
Member Since: 01/24/06
1522 lifetime posts
Me_office1
Yes your doing a very Kosher job and the pitch should be 1/8th in per ft

MistressEll

07:19AM | 07/28/07
Member Since: 01/30/05
361 lifetime posts
in series you'd be creating an S type trap in the plumbing. you're not allowed to do that.

Please explain what you meant by that "using 2 45 degrees in opposite direction" statement.

MistressEll

07:21AM | 07/28/07
Member Since: 01/30/05
361 lifetime posts
what about a VENT? if your moving the toilet 12 feet - you have indicated nothing regarding venting provisions.

the DWV can't drain if air can't displace.

latexia707

10:14AM | 07/28/07
Member Since: 11/01/06
34 lifetime posts
clearer...

the drawing is what i want to achieve.

for the shower, i plan on using a kohler shower system... the requirement says that 2" is fine... but in case of overflowing... i might just go 3"... due to the amour of flow the shower heads can generate.

to that same 4" main waste and vent, there is a washing machine and sink connected to it in the next room.

this bathroom is on the second floor and above it there is the roof. on the 1st floor, some 12' below (1905 house) the laundry room is the kitchen with a sink and a dishwasher.

below that, the 4" pipe connects to the city sewer lines (some 80' away)

on the first floor, i have connected a toilet to that main pipe. when i flush that toilet... all is fine... lotsa water, lotsa whirl, lotsa flow... and no waste behind...

thanks again!
9596-this_might_be

MistressEll

09:24AM | 07/31/07
Member Since: 01/30/05
361 lifetime posts
You still aren't getting it.

You will have to provide VENTING for these fixtures.

You also have to have the proper pitch for your drains.

You also have to calculate the flow units for your fixtures, etc.

Increasing the trade size of your shower drain does not necessarily improve your system.

I STRONGLY RECOMMEND you consult a Master Plumber or Plumbing Engineer to Evaluate and DESIGN this modification for your DWV system. You could then (if you feel qualified) possibly perform the work yourself.

You should also get a permit for this work, and have it inspected.

MistressEll

09:37AM | 07/31/07
Member Since: 01/30/05
361 lifetime posts
It appears obvious you are presently wet-venting if your diagram is complete, and that your present toliet location is near the DWV stack, and all fixtures on the same long 14' wall.

I also find it more than concerning that your joist diagram has the joists running along this 14' wall, and that your bathroom is 7' deep and you only have 2 joists diagramed - and that you propose to pass your venting THROUGH the joists, yet make no diagram regarding the MAJOR structural corrections to be able to do this - even if you had 2x12" joists.

You WILL have to auxiliarly vent the far from the DWV main stack fixtures. Is your present bath tub where you propose a shower to be?

I can't imagine (if your diagram is to scale) that you have enough clearance (to ANY PLUMBING CODE) for the toilet footprint.

One also wonders if any of these walls are outside walls - where the door is, and where the window is.
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