COMMUNITY FORUM

MissRiley

06:45PM | 12/28/00
Member Since: 12/27/00
1 lifetime posts
Bvhvac
I'm converting a small, ground-floor laundry room, which houses a Bryant gas furnace, into a full-time home office. We thought we would build a plywood box around the furnace to cut down on the noise, and strip the fiberglass insulation from around the pipes (which will snake out from the box) and the base in order to heat the room. I'm a little worried that this may pose a fire hazard, but my handyman boyfriend says no. What do you experts think?

Also, where can I find a 16" diameter elbow joint for the intake vent, without having it custom made, as one hardware said we would have to?

Many thanks.

Matches

04:05PM | 12/31/00
Member Since: 09/01/00
312 lifetime posts
Not sure about the elbow, but as for enclosing the heater etc,etc.You really need the advice of maybe a gas co.rep. and or your local fire marshall.I have seen this done but don't know if anyone ever asked if it was safe.Also,a gas system needs a certain amount of unrestricted air around the burner.

codyboy

06:26PM | 01/10/01
Member Since: 01/09/01
15 lifetime posts
Ok here is what I did with my unit 14 years ago. We live on a slab and in a very small house so space is very important.Our unit has and electronic ignition system so there is no pilot going all the time but, as with any flame you need air. I know how you feel about the sound when it turns on but I feel you should not totally enclose the unit. My furnace is closed on three sides with a slotted door to let in air. It sits on cement blocks so as to draw in cold air off the floor. Duct work runs off the main up in the crawl space up stairs. If I remember correct in the installation book it tells not to enclose the unit totally, it needs so much air per foot for the flame and be sure to check your draft stack is working correct.I would try e-mailing the maker of your furnace to find out the volume of air needed to run it safely and the wall clearance around your unit. On our hot water tank we have a down draft pipe near the tank for air as it is enclosed in a small room. But just to be on the safe side we have CO detectors in hall near the tank an I check tank twice a year and clean it.

codyboy

06:27PM | 01/10/01
Member Since: 01/09/01
15 lifetime posts
Ok here is what I did with my unit 14 years ago. We live on a slab and in a very small house so space is very important.Our unit has and electronic ignition system so there is no pilot going all the time but, as with any flame you need air. I know how you feel about the sound when it turns on but I feel you should not totally enclose the unit. My furnace is closed on three sides with a slotted door to let in air. It sits on cement blocks so as to draw in cold air off the floor. Duct work runs off the main up in the crawl space up stairs. If I remember correct in the installation book it tells not to enclose the unit totally, it needs so much air per foot for the flame and be sure to check your draft stack is working correct.I would try e-mailing the maker of your furnace to find out the volume of air needed to run it safely and the wall clearance around your unit. On our hot water tank we have a down draft pipe near the tank for air as it is enclosed in a small room. But just to be on the safe side we have CO detectors in hall near the tank an I check tank twice a year and clean it.

HOLLYWOOD

02:30AM | 01/20/01
Member Since: 02/19/00
206 lifetime posts
Enclosure must meet the minimum clearence specified on the tag inside the furnace. Also, a louvered door is needed for combustion air for safe operation. There should be no need for a 16" pce. of duct into that room....Try like 2 or 3 6" runs depending on the size of the room.
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