I have a 20' x 30' single level shop that is quite old (old converted chicken coop). The "girder" in the center is constructed from 2-2"x6"'s scabbed together and is starting to sag. I would like to replace it with something strong enough that can span the entire length of the shop and allow me to remove the post I have in the center of the shop. Any thoughts or resources I could use to determine what I should do would be appreciated. I could go to 10" depth without causing me problems with the headroom. Options- sandwiching real wood lumber, using a engineered board (s), using a steel girder.
The top of the attic is quite small but I do use it for storage. I have dimensions I can post if that will help.
Thanks in advance
COMMUNITY FORUM
- Forum >
- Tools & Workshop >
- sizing a new girder for a small building
not possible on any kind of practical basis to span 30' with a loaded beam.
Excellence is its own reward!
Excellence is its own reward!
I would have to agree, 30 feet cannot be spanned practically.
There would be a great deal of work to make this happen in order to redistribute the point loads and cross brace construction would mean sistering and reinforcing the entire building.
Can it be done? Yes
Practically? No
The steel required would be larger than a 10" girt. It would be easier to rip the roof off and apply trusses.
There would be a great deal of work to make this happen in order to redistribute the point loads and cross brace construction would mean sistering and reinforcing the entire building.
Can it be done? Yes
Practically? No
The steel required would be larger than a 10" girt. It would be easier to rip the roof off and apply trusses.
Of course this can be done one way or another. But as far as being "practical" No.
He says he can come down no more than 10 iches. So if a steel girt spans 30' it would need to be most likely larger than 10" in my experience. I did a job 3 weeks ago after recieving a structural and we ended up using a w 10 x 26 spanning 12 feet with live loads and a w 10 x 39 and it's max span was only 20 feet. The w10 x 39 was approx 1200 pounds to boot. If it were a lite load to brace roof rafters bearing on the outer walls with joists spanning the width a w10 x 26 or 39 may work if you use a structural to confirm it, the cost for him to come out will be anywhere from 300-600$. This would include steel colums support at each end bolted to the foundation or footing along with welded connections to the beam. If there is a door at the end of the support such as a garage door you would require a head to support the load.
Another way would be to support the joist over the span, cut them through the middle and slide the beam up in-between them. Through bolt 2x's in the I beam and apply the joists with hangers to have a clear head and cieling span. This method would require outside temp wall and interior joist support and should only be attempted by a profesional along with a structural stamped and OK'ed by the local building dept.
Good luck
He says he can come down no more than 10 iches. So if a steel girt spans 30' it would need to be most likely larger than 10" in my experience. I did a job 3 weeks ago after recieving a structural and we ended up using a w 10 x 26 spanning 12 feet with live loads and a w 10 x 39 and it's max span was only 20 feet. The w10 x 39 was approx 1200 pounds to boot. If it were a lite load to brace roof rafters bearing on the outer walls with joists spanning the width a w10 x 26 or 39 may work if you use a structural to confirm it, the cost for him to come out will be anywhere from 300-600$. This would include steel colums support at each end bolted to the foundation or footing along with welded connections to the beam. If there is a door at the end of the support such as a garage door you would require a head to support the load.
Another way would be to support the joist over the span, cut them through the middle and slide the beam up in-between them. Through bolt 2x's in the I beam and apply the joists with hangers to have a clear head and cieling span. This method would require outside temp wall and interior joist support and should only be attempted by a profesional along with a structural stamped and OK'ed by the local building dept.
Good luck
