I have a few questions I hope someone could answer for me regarding rough inspection.. My area doesnt have their own code so it is my guess they use the NEC.
1. Do grounds have to be spliced together in boxes? Is it better to crimp or use wire nut? If using a crimp, what size is best for 12 guage cable?
2. Do circuits have to be wired to the panel or should they just be labeled and hanging above the box?
3. Do smoke alarms have to be wired together prior to drywall installation?
4. I have a 100 amp sub panel in my upstairs. Does the 4 conductor cable need to be installed in the subpanel and the main? Or should it only be wired to the sub-panel so that it is not hot.
5. Does recessed light fixtures need to be completely wired since they will not be accessible once the drywall is installed?
6. Can wires for built in microwave, disposal, and dishwasher left hanging free or does a junction box need to be installed?
7. Can several wires be run in the floor joists in a group as long as they are clearly seperated to prevent "derating"?
8. Do all cables in attic need boards on the sides of the cable to prevent against damage? Are there certain places in the attic (like where the bottom chord and top chord of the truss join) that allow you to skip this?
9. When is lighting required in the attic? I have read different things. One place said as long as you dont use it for storage, you dont need lighting. Then I read somewhere else that if you have mechanicals such as plumbing or HVAC that you will need to have lighting?
10. Is lighting required at a basement entrance( I am guessing yes)? If so, whould the lights be on the exterior, interior or both?
Thank you for your help.
yes,no,yes,no,maybe,yes,yes,no,no,and no.Just kidding, I will look at it later and give it some time to look it up if I don't know offhand. Check back tomorrow. In the boxes, they shouldn't have to be connected for just a rough in inspection, unless you need to power one circuit up for power in the room. The grounds should be crimped with a non reversable crimp. Burndy makes a setup with a barrel crimp and a special crimper, (about $15.00), or you can use a green wirenut with a hole in it to let one pigtail for your recptacle connection. There are also some with a stranded wire and a fork lug coming out which makes the connection easier. That 12 gauge is a bit tough to put on those screws. I suggect pigtailing a 14 Gauge for the connections to the receptacles.
What code article and section allows pig tailing a #14 to a #12 for this EGC?
There was no mention of circuit size.
There was no mention of circuit size.
Smokes are roughed in just like the rest of the house, the electrical inspector inspects to see if they are wired correctly , the fire inspector checks to see if they work properly. You are using 120v interconnected,with battery backup ,I assume.
Again, it's a rough in, just make sure the cable is run in a way so as not to have any damage, is protected from potential damage, is not bent too tight along the edge radius and is supported properly. If any edge is less than the 1 1/4 inches from a framing member make sure you use a nail plate to protect it.
I never wired a recessed light so I didn't know there are any that can't be accessed after drywall. How else would you be able to wire it afterward then if it wasn't wired before the drywall?
Its probably eaiser to install the necessary box now than squeezing in tight spaces later, but then you will have to cut a bigger hole in the cabinet to get the box through. You may also install flush mount, dedicated receptacles for the D/W, disposal, and M/W. They must be readilly accessable and be situated so as to protect the cord from damage, in other words get the dimensions before hand and locate the power in a suitable spot.
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