The reason the IC rated fixtures go off and on is that THEY have a SENSOR that detects when the heat build-up is too high and SHUT DOWN the light to prevent an over-heating/potential fire ignition situation. The blinking OFF is a GOOD THING -- means by shutting themselves down they prevent a fire, this is GOOD. The Non-IC rated fixtures DO NOT HAVE SUCH A SENSOR/PROTECTION. The fact that they never go out is a BAD THING and why they are NOT safe to put in an enclosed area (like the ceiling of a first floor between joists when their is a low clearance between combustable materials and low air circulation and NO "fire proofed" methods like encasing area in min. 5/8" drywall taped and mudded combustibles. This is a BAD thing for your ceilings exposed to insulated attics. Furthermore the excessive HEAT that will build up in these fixtures (especially with no "IC type" SENSOR to shut them down when they get TOO HOT, will cause your bulbs to FAIL SOONER, be they regular incandescents (the filments will be stressed by excessive heat and break sooner), flood type incandescents, or those flourescent jobs that can "screw in".
Someone, forgot which poster, talked about YOUR CURRENT LUMINAIRES (light fixtures) having SENSORS, this was WRONG, yours do NOT, as you said you have NOT got IC rated fixtures. Any solid confinement that prevents disipation of the HEAT that these fixtures generate WILL only reflect and CONTAIN that heat, and further "inflame" the situation. Furthermore, such fixtures aren't designed to resist the humidity/condensation issues that regular non-conditioned (floor insulated) attics encounter in all types of temperate zones.
Finally, at $10 a fixture difference you most likely were looking at some of the lesser lines, but when you consider the cost of your time, and the chicken wire (and the likely scratches you acquired), I adjusted the factor downwards to a total difference of a couple to a few bucks a fixture difference (I figure you at least deserve a minimum wage factor for your time involved).
Bottom line: NON-IC fixture in an enviroment requiring an IC rated fixture is trouble, period. It is only a matter of time and unknown variables before you might realize that trouble. It could be a burnt conductor (conducting that heat away from the fixture instead of electricity TO it), melted insulation on the conductor (exposing you to arc fault, ground fault, or other fire hazard), or some other corrosion/expidentialy aging situation that will reduce the fixture's useful life, and potentially expose you and/or your home to a potential hazard. If all one needed was a chicken wire cage to hold back fiberglass insulation to make a non-IC rated fixture a IC rated fixture, there'd be such a cage on the IC rated fixture. Sure hope you haven't created an electrified chicken wire cage or you haven't grounded it to the fixture.
Enough said, answer still NOPE.