Why do you think that unit is "burnt out"?

And how do you know that it is the motor and not the control board?

You did not give any idea of the make, model, or age of the unit.

I don't know what replacement motors run. But if it is the control board they are not inexpensive.

For example control boards for Chamberlain/Liftmaster/Sears are about $75. For $150 - 200 you can get a new Liftmaster or Sears unit.

Here is a company that has replacement parts for many different brands.

http://www.aaaremotes.com/

sorry about not giving the specs. Our model is a Stanley Quietglide. I don't know exactly what happened. The electrician working on our remodeling siad that there was something wrong with the circuit the opener was on and that it got 'burned' when he was rewiring the circuit. Sounds like he messed up, but the bottom line is that the opener is inoperable now. I have no idea if the controller or the motor or both has become bad.

About the only thing that could have cause it to "burn up" is that if this was part of a multiwired circuit where the neutral is shared between two 120 volt circuits. If that is messed up you can get 240 volts at a receptacle.

But the first thing that you need to do is to verify that you have power to the ceiling receptacle in the garage where the opener is plugged into.

Most "modern" openers (in the case of the Chamberlain/Sears/Liftmaster that is since the mid 80's) have a power supply on the controller boards that supplies the 12 or 24 volts need for the wall switch, lights the wall switch if you has that and also lights the indicate lights on the safety eyes if your has that. If the receptacle is OK and the wall switch lights and safety eye indicators (if yours had those features) are not lite then the control board is most likely out.

And depending on exactly what happened it could have damaged the safety eyes and wall switch.

Make sure the GFCI on the circuit was not tripped and need to be reset.