I would also love the answer to this. I have removed years of paper and paint and I have found myself down to the brown coat. I do not believe there was ever a finish coat applied as all 4 walls (and probably the ceiling) are in this situation. If I do have to add a finish coat, what would be the proper approach to this. Thanks a bunch in advance!

Fiberglass mesh tape (about 1 1/2 to 2 inches wide) is generally used to tape drywall joints in lieu of traditional drywall "tape" (which is just a roll of 1-2 inch wide thick paper). It is strong, and easier to work with than traditional drywall tape because it sticks to the area (it has a slight tack to it), and you can spread joint filler through it (because it is mesh).

This fiberglass mesh tape can be used to patch small holes. Home Depot and all home centers (even many Ace Hardwares) sell patch kits with that fiberglass mesh tape in wider and square strips. The tape gives the joint compound something to cling to while it dries, and gives the patch structural support after it is dry, just as it does when used to connect drywall joints. Some patch kits have small metal plates attached to the tape for a still more secure patch. If you only have one or two mid-sized holes (no bigger than a softball) or minimal damage, then these do a good job.

But none of these kits will (or should) be used for a "blanket" repair job of an entire piece of drywall. If the entire wall or large segment of it is damaged, it probably would be better for you to just rip it down (or cut the damaged portion out) and replace it with new drywall. It sounds daunting, but it is much cheaper, better and easier than patching lots of holes or even extensive superficial (usually water) damage. Any holes or damage more than the size of a basketball are not worth patching with joint compound, alone. You will need to get a replacement piece of drywall and patch it into the hole with fiberglass tape or traditional drywall tape.

As such, there is no product that covers an entire wall or large portion of it, as you seemed to suggest in your question, because it is better and easier to replace an entire piece of drywall if the whole piece is damaged. Doing otherwise would require professional plastering experience, and any professional worth his salt would just replace the drywall instead of repair it.

Sorry, I re-read your post, and it had to do with cracks, not holes. Again, though, their is no "blanketing" product that I know of: the fiberglass tape is typically just like a roll of duct tape, although it can come in slightly larger strips in the patch kits. A "blanket" product would require too much plastering experience.

That said, the mesh tape is unnecessary for thin, small cracks. It is ideal, however, and rather necessary for sealing and supporting larger, longer cracks, individually, especially if the cracks are just from normal aging or settling process. It is found wherever drywall is sold, and often in hardware stores. If the house is still settling or shifting, the fiberglass tape will not be nearly strong enough to stop the crack from reappearing, but otherwise, it should do the trick.

I'm suprised that there isn't a product for the entire wall expecially for plaster walls. I do believe that drywall is best to replace but plaster walls are different. I did see on an old this old house at sometime where they refinished a plaster wall with some mess covered with a skim coat of plaster. Who know maybe is was dreaming.

I'm glad this was asked. I have a similar issue. I am on my first house (built in 1926). I have done small drywall work around the house. My question is if I take down the plaster walls, am I going to find it easy enough to replace with drywall? You know with the trusty Home Depot book?

Thanks

We live in a house built in 1860's. Some plaster was in really bad condition but instead of tearing it out - really messy - we put 3/8 drywall over top. Thinner than regular drywall. I have since heard there is 1/4inch drywall available but not sure if this is accurate. We removed top baseboard moulding first then nailed it back on. The door moulding in our house was deep enough (1 - 11/2 inches) that we didn't remove it and still had lots of profile left. If shallow moulding is around doors, windows you may have to remove then build out with pine or some other wood and then reattach.

is it possible to retape dry wall.
we have ceilings that the taping is very badly done. teying to figure out a solution, or a coverup.
"tin"ceiling tiles? house is c.1810

How about Nu-Wall? I just read about it at: http://www.spec-chem.com/nuwal/index.htm

Nu-Wall is probably the product to which "This Old House" referred (and that inspired this post in the first place), but it looks like it requires plastering skills. New drywall is much easier. As that one person recommended, you can put 3/8 inch drywall over existing walls. The thin drywall is bad on its own (very weak and almost a sound-amplifier, not a sound-barrier), but fine if there is an existing, supporting wall behind it.

[This message has been edited by Lawrence (edited July 14, 2001).]