You can check out duron.com and there is an area that will give you the specs for painting steel and that is what you want.

As far as application I would go with brush and roll as that will be the most practical way to go. You can buy pipe rollers which will make it easier to apply the paint to the tubular parts.

I would go to most any autobody store and get a good metal to metal primer they use on auto's,and use the same paint you would for a car.
This would be a great place to start.

The problem with automotive paints is that are designed for proffesional use only. You have to have the right equipment to apply which is an HVLP or conventional sprayer as they can't be brushed and rolled.

You will get a good job out of a alkyd metal primer and a urethane modified enamel. The main thing is going to be sure the metal is clean before you start painting and I am sure you will need to use a degreaser to wash it with.

Go to DevoeCoatings.com - you can get a whole package recommendation very easily.

Devoe has a product called DevPrep 88 - which will work very well as a prep. There are a number of systems you can use - most are non-paint person friendly...

Check it out!

Mr. Paint

he said was looking for the best way to keep from happening again,so being that automotive paint (or industrial) and primer is what they spray most trailers with anyhow this would be one of the best ways.
He could go to most rental stores and rent an HVLP for about $35.00 a day.
But yes there are metal to metal primer systems out their that are quite well too,ive used some on galvanized roofs with great results.

Best way to keep it from happening again is a white metal sand blast - two component epoxy primer - and a topcoat of two component aliphatic urethane.

The chances of a homeowner being able to do this are slim - so........check DevoeCoatings.com - use DevPrep 88, and PrePrime 167 - these two will clean (DevPrep) - and reconvert your rusted steel (PrePrime 167).

From here - a coat of Tru-Glaze waterbourne epoxy primer - and two coats of Tru-Glaze waterbourne epoxy -gloss finish - should do the trick!

Mr. Paint

MR PAINT

Are you sure you want him to use an epoxy outside as they normally fade very quickly?

We need to remember that is not a proffesional painter and as such most likely does not have the equipment to apply these types of coatings.

I still feel that a single component alkyd primer followed by 2 coats of an single part urethane enamel will last fine (up to 5 or 6
years)and be easy to use. The Duron products will be Dura Clad White or Red Alkyd Metal primer follwed by Dura Clad Urethane Modified Enamel 12 series.

5..........yes - all of those products are water soluable - and brushable - so he should be able to apply them.

While I don't disagree that the epoxy will lose its shine - it won't hurt the performance of the product - which appears paramount here. Also, the WB loses its gloss less than the solvent borne products do.

I don't think he has the ability to spray a 2 comp urethane - and a 1 comp urethane is basically a modified alkyd - which not only will lose it shine - but also break down outside fairly quickly.

The only other Devoe choice he would have is one of the DevFlex products - they don't brush any better - and even though they will keep their shine longer - they won't last as long.

He has options - I will say that! Started a paint guy round robin..........always love to talk paint!

Mr. Paint

Aren't you glad you asked , Tim. I'd go to the local Ben Moore or Sherwin -Will dealer, ask for the Mgr., and go from there!! (no foolen)