11:00AM | 03/13/05
Member Since: 03/12/05
1 lifetime posts
I want to repaint my bathroom ceiling and the paint was flaking. I scraped it and it flaked up again. There is a shower in this bathroom, I am assuming that has something to do with it. I don't want to spend the time painting and have the fresh paint start flaking off because of the old stuff underneath. Does anyone know what I can do about this so I can make my bathroom look presentable?



02:32AM | 03/19/05
Member Since: 07/28/02
1356 lifetime posts
The first thing you need to do is scrape and sand to remove the flaking paint then wash the ceiling with bleach, TSP, and water to remove dirt and mildew and be sure to rinse after washing. You may have to remove a little more paint after the washing as it may loosen some more paint.

Then you iwll want to prime the entire ceiling with an interior oil based undercoater and this will be a slow drying type as you really don't need a fast dry type. The finish paint should be either an acrylic eggshell or semi-gloss to better resist the moisture and apply two coats over the primer. If you can wait at least 2 days(more will be better) after painting that will give the paint some time to cure.

If you don't have an exhuast fan in this bathroom you should have one installed.


05:39AM | 03/20/05
Member Since: 01/30/05
361 lifetime posts
If your home is pre 1980 construction I'd consider getting a paint chip sample tested for lead although the ban went in to effect in the 70s some left-over paint could have been used from someone elses project for a bathroom in your home.

#2 latex paints offer more moisture resistance to your walls then oil based. I would NOT use an oil based primer then laytex atop. Instead I'd get an alcohol or water based primer that had factory installed mold/mildew inhibitors like a zinser product (they make Bin, bulls eye and many others) or Kilz, then select a nice quality factory added mold/mildew inhibitor, then tinted to your desired color. The application of laytex atop of oil or vice versa without a sealer shelac between them is often the cause of such aligator cracking/flaking, moisture penetrating the surface of the paint and attacking the wall is also a cause of such lifting/chipping. After priming with a proper sealer the surface most likely will be glossy. Do NOT use liquid sand product, but instead rough up/degloss the surface with sand paper and remove all grit before you start painting the finish paint atop the primer/shelac for good adhesion, also if you're using a flat or eggshell finish the gloss from the primer/sealer will "broadcast" thru the finish paint, this step will also help to avoid this.


05:35PM | 03/20/05
Member Since: 07/28/02
1356 lifetime posts
The oil based primer will offer the best resitance to moisture as it will not let it through and that is why you want to use it over your existing paint to create a barrier from the moisture in the room. It will help lock down the flaky paint and give you a good base to paint over and the primer will not be so glossy that you will need to sand it to get paint to stick to it and with two coats of finish you don't have to worry about the primer showing through the finish paint.

Oh don't ever use flat paint in a bathroom with a shower.


03:58AM | 03/23/05
Member Since: 01/30/05
361 lifetime posts
In my experience, oil paint on top of unknown paint possibly laytex that hasn't been shelac sealed first equals aligator cracking and peeling later. Do as I suggested and seal/prime first with a good shellac primer first. There are specific ones that are DESIGNED to SEAL in a cracking paint mess of possible lead base BEFORE you finish paint. A visit to your local paint store will help you find which product name is available in your area, but before you start aggressively chomping away at that old paint, please consider that it may have a lead base. you can read all about lead paint precautions on the US EPA site and some helpful links on the HUD site.


11:18PM | 04/01/05
Member Since: 04/01/05
5 lifetime posts
tear the old **** down it easier has mildew/mold or lead... re sheet it with the aqua board (drywall) save time and money


05:50PM | 04/02/05
Member Since: 04/01/05
1 lifetime posts
scrape it- sand it- oil prime it-mud it - prime agian- and then 2 coats of interior low sheen,semi-glos or gloss paint- let me know how it comes out--Roy
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