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kittymck

08:01AM | 04/10/06
Member Since: 04/09/06
3 lifetime posts
Bvbrush
Can you paint the old 1960's 12" ceiling tiles? If so, what type of paint do you use? Is it necessary to use a primer first?

BruceRidenour

07:46PM | 04/10/06
Member Since: 03/25/06
39 lifetime posts
I've painted these many times. A primer is absolutly nessisary. The question is whether to use an stain killer or not. If you happen to have any latex primer left over from a previous project, brush some on a joint between two tiles to see if anything bleeds through. If yes then you need to use something like Kilz or CoverStain primer. The stuff stinks to high heaven, but it makes the finish coat go on quite easily and assures that no staining will occur. If there is no bleeding then a latex primer will suffice. I would advise you to use a good quality primer such as Benjamin Moore's Fresh Start. An inexpensive primer can lead to difficulty in applying the finish coat.

kittymck

02:44AM | 04/11/06
Member Since: 04/09/06
3 lifetime posts
Thank you very much for the information! If you use the Kilz first is it necessary to then put on a good primer before the finish coat? Does Kilz seal the surface of the tiles and prevent bleed-through of water stains (the water problem has been fixed)? Can you use any good latex paint for the finish coat or is there a special paint for ceiling tiles? Can you use a roller for the various applications? Thank you again for your assistance!

BruceRidenour

02:30PM | 04/11/06
Member Since: 03/25/06
39 lifetime posts
Kilz and CoverStain are primers that also work to hold back water and other stains. Once the Kilz is dry you can apply any type of paint over it without using any other primer. I've always used a flat latex paint for ceilings.

Both the primer and the finish paint can be applied using a roller, though you'll need to use a brush to "cut in" around the edges. My favorite type of roller cover to use is called a "Kodawool". It seems to have the best pick up and release of the material. A 1/2 inch knap is probably sufficient to get into the seams between the tiles, though I'm sure you'll have to use some pressure to get the cover into them.


kittymck

05:14PM | 04/11/06
Member Since: 04/09/06
3 lifetime posts
Thank you for all the helpful information! Now I can get started with my project.

KenWoolf

09:16AM | 11/10/09
Member Since: 11/04/09
2 lifetime posts
One must remember that a key word is "acoustical." Unless the right products are used, a severe loss of sound absorbing qualities will likely occur. Furthermore, ceiling tiles typically lay in a grid system that allows the tiles to be removed for access above the ceiling. Choosing the wrong product can result in the tiles being stuck to the grids when the paint dries.

First, a non-bridging coating material must be used to mantain the acoustics and keep the tiles free and not stuck to the grids. And for sure, a primer coat is the last thing that should be applied to the entire ceiling unless there is no desire to maintain the acustical quality of the ceiling.

A non-bridging material will also leave a very natural appearance as opposed to one that is obviously a paint job.

KenWoolf

09:20AM | 11/10/09
Member Since: 11/04/09
2 lifetime posts
Go to www.procoat.com and check out their "ProCoat Line of Products." These items are all specifically for the restoration of acoutical ceiling tiles.

CeilProConsulting

11:31AM | 08/29/13
Member Since: 08/29/13
1 lifetime posts
Ceiling tiles are best refinished using an airless sprayer, as it atomizes the paint and applies a very thin coat to the tiles. This has the benefit of NOT filling in the "fissures" (or holes) on the tile face, as well as avoiding roller streaks. Cross-hatch with the sprayer, which will prevent any streaking after the paint or coating dries. I have additional tips at www.CeilPro.com
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