08:33AM | 10/16/07
Member Since: 10/15/07
1 lifetime posts
Our painter used an oil exterior paint to on (new) cedar framing trim around the new windows we had installed to replace our old ones. The paint began to mildew within a few weeks and remains a real problem. My husband has climbed up to each window and bleached the mildew on two occasions while we continue to press the painter to return and recify the problem. He painted all of the new siding with an exterior latex paint which has no mildew problems while all of the new trim installed is covered with mildew. He used oil paint which he thinned with gasoline when he ran out of paint thinner (I know because I saw him mixing it). Is it truly necessary to thin all oil paint for exterior application???? Could this have caused the problem? Or, should he have primed the cedar trim (which he insisted he did not have to do because he was applying two coats of the oil paint)? It was not an inexpensive job as we had him do much of the rest of the work. Everything else he has done has been A+++, and we have had many happy friends who were given his name for work. I want to know if it is our problem for insisting he use oil based paint or if it is the way in which he applied it, or thinned it, that is the problem. Also, it was Behr and some have suggested that is one of the problems also.



04:45PM | 10/17/07
Member Since: 07/28/02
1358 lifetime posts
Wow you have alot going on here.

First off unless oil soild stain was used the raw wood should have been primed with PRIMER as oil based gloss house paint is not primer and should not be used as such. No all oil based paint does not need to be thinned and it should not be thinned with gasoline anyway. There are some painters that say if you thin the finish paint then it is primer, but they are wrong as primer is not just thin finish paint.

Now as far as the mildew goes it could have been on the wood to start with and is growing through the paint and you would be able to tell this as it would look it was in the paint not just on the surface. Also oil based paints mildew much faster than acrylic/latex paints as there is food for the mildew to feed on. I would wash a window to remove the mildew and paint that window with an acrylic/latex house and see if the window does not mildew. You will need to prime the oil based paint with an oil based primer before you apply the acrylic/latex.

Hope this helps out.


06:44PM | 06/12/13
Maybe too late to consider, but have you guys ever thugoht about placing the railings as coming directly off of the newel posts instead of inside of them? To me, the railings make the stairs seem narrow pinched. If you would widen the railings I think it would look more open and inviting. Of course, then, it would be nice to add cheek-walls, too!


07:50PM | 07/20/13
Mildew is a fungus(mold) and it grows wherever it finds a friendly surface and food it can eat. Fungi do not like zinc (among other things. There are other chemicals-that-kill-mold that are also deterrents, but exterior paints that are made with (enough) zinc oxide (a white pigment) are mildew-resistant. Look for an exterior paint that says it is mildew-resistant. It should have enough-of-something in the formulation to kill mildew that tries to grow there.

Mold is a pretty tough critter, and it could grow on the wood underneath and, just as with tannin-stains, come thru the paint. Cedar has tannins and they can bleed thru many paints. There is a 2-part epoxy primer called Multiwoodprime that glues onto the wood surface, and blocks tannin or mold from coming thru, and glues down the primer or topcoat to the wood. It can solve the other half of the possible cause of your mildew problem. You can find Multiwoodprime on the Internet.

Good luck



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