07:58AM | 02/22/01
Member Since: 01/06/01
14 lifetime posts
Hi, we had asbestos removers take out our old flooring in our 1948 kitchen. they broke several of the subfloor 1 X 10 planks, though. so many needed replaced that we decided to start with a fresh floor by laying down 3/4 plywood--and not just plywood, but marine plywood! A few joists are higher than others, probably from settling. we plan on laying cementious board over the plywood, then tiling, so levelling is sooo important.

Three questions:

1. what method would you suggest for levelling? should we take the opportunity with replacement of the subfloor to level with shims between plywood and joists? should we "shave" a little off the higher joists instead? or is the former a more reliable and easier way?

2. how in the heck do you read a level? we have a big orange one. we know that when the bubble is outside of the middle, the floor's not level. but HOW out of level, I'd like to know. what does it mean when the bubble goes out of the double rings to the right or left all together, as opposed to going into the double rings, and stopping there? I've looked everywhere for the answers!

3. when we do lay the cementious board, can I just affix it to the plywood with liquid nails and be done with it, or must I also screw it into the plywood and, ideally, into the joists as well? I'd like to avoid the extra work of filling the screw-dents with thin set.

thanks much!

[This message has been edited by girldog (edited February 22, 2001).]


02:59AM | 02/23/01
Member Since: 03/13/00
1675 lifetime posts
Using shims is certainly easier than shaving joists, but I doubt if it's as effective. However, I believe most contractors would tell you that shims are adequate. When I use a shim, I like to put a dab of adhesive on it to make sure it doesn't eventually work loose.
As to reading a level: when you see that the bubble is not centered, lift one end of the level until the bubble is centered. The level is now "level". You can determine from that how far out of level the floor is by extending the line along the bottom of the level.
You probably should use some screws for the cement board. If you're going to the trouble and expense of putting cement board under linoleum tile, I'd think the extra effort of filling screw dents would be worth it, though I don't understand why you want cement board - since you're already levelling the floor and putting down new plywood.
On the other hand, if you're using ceramic tile, you don't have to worry about the screw dents. They won't affect the individual tiles.


08:04AM | 02/23/01
Member Since: 01/06/01
14 lifetime posts
hello, yes, I'm using ceramic tile. i was told by the tile association that i needed a total of 1 1/4 underneath the ceramic tile for proper stability. so, if it were you, would you shave the joists? or is there something you would do instead? thank you!


03:31AM | 02/26/01
Member Since: 03/13/00
1675 lifetime posts
I'm not sure how others would answer this, but for myself the answer is Yes, I would shave the joists. That is assuming it is do-able without tremendous expense and difficulty.


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