COMMUNITY FORUM

srsc_city

05:08AM | 05/03/01
Member Since: 05/02/01
2 lifetime posts
Bvflooring
I posted this on the old board too, sorry, didn't know about new board at time of posting. Anyhow I need a suggestion on good quality wood/laminate flooring for a 12.5 by 9.5 foot room. I want something fairly easy to install. I am generally good with do it yourself projects. Quality is a must. Any suggestions??

Thanks, Dean

droglesby

02:47PM | 05/20/01
Member Since: 05/19/01
12 lifetime posts
There are many types and brands out on the market that it can be confusing. There are three types of wood flooring currently available. Laminates, engineered and of course hardwoods. Laminates although thought to be indestructable are not and are still fake looking. Good ones on the market now are the new european "clic" types (Uniclic, Columbia Clic to name a couple). Columbia clic has a wax bead that claims to be more moisture resistant. Engineered woods are more stable than hardwoods and can be placed below grade and can still be sanded or prefinished just like hardwoods. Of course hardwoods are the most desirable. You need to know what the purpose of the room is going to be used for and location before making any decision. There are a lot of reputable manufacturers but do your homework on which type to buy. Laminates are the easiest to install by DIY's because they typically float and require no nailing. The clic type floors don't require any gluing because the tongue and groove actually snap together to make a tight lock. Hope this helps.

Jay J

04:24PM | 05/21/01
Member Since: 10/26/00
782 lifetime posts
Hi srsc_city,

Did I answer your Post on the Fix It For'em BBS? If so, I can't seem to find it. I ask this because, if I did, was there 'something' that I wasn't clear on, or did I answer it 'incorrectly'. I just don't want to repeat myself so I'd like to know what I, or others, already wrote before I say anything more. I would like to help.

Jay J -Moderator

PS: This is an area of specialty for me ...

tate16t

08:48AM | 06/15/01
Member Since: 06/14/01
57 lifetime posts
Jay J - I'd be interested in hearing your opinion. I'm currently looking to install a laminate floor in my living/dining room area. It's not very big 231/2' by 12'. Thanks

tate16t

09:06AM | 06/15/01
Member Since: 06/14/01
57 lifetime posts
Jay -

I have another question regarding particle board in a second floor bedroom. It will be installed on top of a subfloor with carpet being the final floor covering. What is you opinion on the particle board? I purchased the particle board already but haven't begun to lay it so I could return it. Thanks

tate16t

09:06AM | 06/15/01
Member Since: 06/14/01
57 lifetime posts
Jay -

I have another question regarding particle board in a second floor bedroom. It will be installed on top of a subfloor with carpet being the final floor covering. What is you opinion on the particle board? I purchased the particle board already but haven't begun to lay it so I could return it. Thanks

AzFred

09:52AM | 06/15/01
Member Since: 05/09/01
13 lifetime posts
For what it's worth, Both the BHK UNICLIC and the Columbia Clic have the extra moisture proofing on all edges. Engineered floors can also be installed as floating. The "fake" claim is less noticable in 'A' better brands with better graphics.. and 'B' on textured or distressed grain planks. You can get more info at my website by clicking the question mark right above this post and then clicking the hot link.

tate16t

10:01AM | 06/15/01
Member Since: 06/14/01
57 lifetime posts
funny u mention UNICLIC, I was just reading about this product. Is this or can this be purchased as an engineered floor?

Jay J

10:39AM | 06/15/01
Member Since: 10/26/00
782 lifetime posts
Hi tate16t,

The problem w/particle board is it's LOVE of moisture. If you're over a basement or crawlspace, you could have a problem. Particle Board doensn't 'return' to its normal 'state' when the moisture dries. EVEN if you install a moisture barrier from below, you still run the risk of possibly TRAPPING moisture between the barrier and the PB. So, in short, I wouldn't use it as a 'sub-floor' unless (MAYBE) the room below is heated and cooled as any lived-in room is in the house.

Now, RE Uniclic: It doesn't excite me. It's a personal choice. Any floating floor has a really 'hollow' sound to it when you walk on it. A solid, 3/4" floor or stapled engineered floor has a much more SOLID sound to it. These 2 floors aren't as DIY-friendly as Uniclic or the like. However, that's the nature of the beast.

Now, back to your original question ... I'd use 3/4" sub-floor on 16" On-Center (OC) joists. Remember to install your flooring 90 degrees to the OPPOSITE of the layer you're installing on. If you want your finished layer to go the SAME 'direction' as the flooring you're installing over, then lay a 1/4" plywood underlayment down first to 'make up' get your new flooring 'pointed' the right direction.

My best to ya and hope this helps.

Jay J -Moderator

tate16t

11:12AM | 06/15/01
Member Since: 06/14/01
57 lifetime posts
Thanks Jay.

I probably won't experience any moisture problems since it's a second floor bedroom, above another bedroom.

Can you recommend a solid, 3/4" floor or stapled engineered floor? What is the cost difference and is it not recommended that one install this themselves?

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