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Patterns in Chaos

08:28PM | 07/29/02
Member Since: 07/29/02
4 lifetime posts
Bvflooring
I want to create detailed mosaic tile art at my workbench on 1/2" backerboard then install them upon completion at a different location on a concrete slab. I will clean concrete, use epoxy mortar and weigh down panels until adhesive cures. panel is 3' x 5' and I would prefer to do the job without anchors or fasteners. Sound reasonable? Thanks for your opinion!

GlennG

06:41PM | 07/31/02
You may find it difficult to move the finished product and put it into place without damaging it. 1/2" backerboard that size with the added weight of the tile will flex when you try to move it.

Glenn

rpxlpx

04:51AM | 08/01/02
Member Since: 03/13/00
1678 lifetime posts
Hi Patterns,
I'm thinking of a possible way to resolve the problem presented by GlennG. How about using 2 six-foot 2x4's and a 3x5 piece of 3/4" plywood (same size as the backer board) Lay the 2x4's on edge, 20 inches apart and nail or screw the plywood to them so that they have 6" exposed on each end.
Use the exposed ends for handles. Do your tile work with the concrete board sitting on this wooden litter, and then use that to move your work when done. Just be careful getting it off the wood and onto the slab.

Patterns in Chaos

07:39AM | 08/01/02
Member Since: 07/29/02
4 lifetime posts
Hey, thanks for the immediacy of your responses, great question/concern and great solution! So I assume you both don't see any problem using backerboard on a concrete slab without fasteners, eh? I have done many mosaics on backerboard in my studio then installed in other locations, i.e. for vertical installation with anchors on bridges, walls, etc. I haven't, however, used them in such great quantity for floor installation on a concrete slab. These are actually going into a brewery. (Away from chemicals, acids, moisture, and freeze thaw. I always grout on site, seal it up on site, but use flexible polymer modified thinset with careful shipping (I use reinforced doors as stretchers to transport), so no problems in that department. Whaddya think?

GlennG

01:02PM | 08/01/02
The only problem I can foresee is if the concrete floor has been sealed. If the concrete has not been sealed, you etch it with a muratic acid solution, and use a good quality epoxy mortar I don’t think you should have a problem. If on the other hand the floor has a sealer on it you should check into a good quality adhesive that can be used over sealed concrete. The epoxy mortar may not adhere well to the sealer.

Glenn

Patterns in Chaos

05:32PM | 08/01/02
Member Since: 07/29/02
4 lifetime posts
Thanks Glenn G.! Yeah, that all sounds like excellent advice. The current floor has a recess in it that is a little too deep. It has not been sealed, and I requested for them to float a drypack floor with a slight slope to it. That is why I want to avoid fasteners: would be a hassle to go through the fill-in bed to anchor to the slab. The drypack will have plenty of tooth to grab to if I request a rough finish, that is a point I overlooked. Thanks again for everything. If you ever need advice in the art or design realm, please don't hesitate to e-mail me. All the best & cheers!
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