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KRL

07:34AM | 03/18/03
Member Since: 03/17/03
5 lifetime posts
Bvflooring
Hello:

I'm a novice at this whole house-ownership thing, so forgive me if this is a dumb question... I just bought a house that has hardwood floors in the recently remodeled kitchen. The floor is spongy (has some give) in some spots between the joists. When I inspected the floor from the basement, I discovered that there is no subfloor. So my questions are: is this something I should worry about, how can I fix it, and is it a problem to not have a subfloor? Also, there is one particular slat of floor that has a crack running down the length - how can I fix this?

Thanks for your help!

carpetman

09:25AM | 03/18/03
Member Since: 01/26/03
542 lifetime posts
sombody screwed up that installation,yes you need a subfloor,whats the answer,pull it all up,install the subfloor.re-install.
i dont think its possible to repair this job,what do you think HARDWOOD GUY?

KRL

06:29AM | 03/19/03
Member Since: 03/17/03
5 lifetime posts
If I need to lay down a subfloor, I would like to avoid pulling up the existing cabinetry, if possible. Could I just lay new flooring down on top of the existing floor?

Piffin

06:46PM | 03/19/03
Member Since: 11/06/02
1281 lifetime posts
What you are suggesting is that you consider the existing flooring to be the subfloor and then add another floor over it. This is unorthodox but could possibly work, depending what kind of floor you are considering. The fact that you have sponginess now is not a good thing (unless you are over three hundred poinds, in which case you could make almsot any floor give a little) so you would probably need to add 3/4" of plywood underlayment and then your vinyl flooring. Anytrhing else would be thicker.

Thickness is a consideration for you if you have a dishwasher. If you leave the cabs in place and bring the floor up, the dishwasher won't fit back in. If youleaveit in while doing this, you will not be able to get it out to replace or repair it.

carpetman

09:15PM | 03/19/03
Member Since: 01/26/03
542 lifetime posts
i spent a little thinking about this,and i wonder if the floor could be strengthened from underneath , do you have good access to the bottom of the floor? perhaps you could cross brace the sleepers in the main walkways.perhaps others will comment.
i don't think you should add something to the top and ruin the new floor. good luck

KRL

11:36AM | 03/20/03
Member Since: 03/17/03
5 lifetime posts
To clarify the problem a little more - the house is a city rowhouse that was built in 1920. It's been suggested to me that it wasn't so uncommon back then to lay the hardwood, which is ~3/4" thick, right onto the joists with no subfloor. So I'm not dealing with the new, thinner (cheaper) hardwood flooring designed to be placed atop a subfloor.

At this point, I may do one of two things - place a second layer of hardwood flooring on top of the original, underneath the cabinets etc. Or, since I do have very good access to the floor from the basement, I'm considering bracing the floor from below using plywood fastened to the joists. I'm leaning towards the latter. Any thoughts?

carpetman

06:31PM | 03/20/03
Member Since: 01/26/03
542 lifetime posts
i would try to fix the problem from below,before i tryed anything from above.but it still make no sense to me how this could have been installed with out a sub floor.3/4 hardwood is installed by nailing the tounge,is your floor top nailed?is it t & G ?how wide is the wood?and what kind of wood is it?

KRL

02:21AM | 03/21/03
Member Since: 03/17/03
5 lifetime posts
The floor is top nailed onto the joists. It is not tongue and groove. The wood is ~3" wide, and I believe it's pine.

KRL

02:24AM | 03/21/03
Member Since: 03/17/03
5 lifetime posts
Actually, it is t+g where it's nailed to the joist, but not along the side (i.e. the slats don't fit together with t+g).

carpetman

12:01PM | 03/21/03
Member Since: 01/26/03
542 lifetime posts
that explains it.that is your sub floor,it was never intended to be a finish floor.
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