I have little experiance in tiling, I have tiled the floors in my living room and kitchen. I am getting ready to do my upstairs bathroom. A freind of mine (does tile for a living) told me that I would need to lay down a sheet of 1/8 inch Dur-a-rock before I do anything. He told me to screw it down and then tile over it. This is all fine and dandy but he has since moved and after thinking about it, the 1/8 inch Dur-a-rock + the thinset + the tile is going to make the bathroom floor higher than the hallway floor. My freind gave me a peace of marble he called a threshold. Does this have anything to do with leveing the two floors or is it for something else? Also, is there a certain type of screws to use when attaching the Dura-rock to the floor? Last, my freind also told me to replace the wax ring and screws for the toilet, I figured the wax ring but why the screws?
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I have done quite a bit of tiling (I am not a pro), so I might be able to field a couple of your questions.
Durarock is generally 1/2" thick, not 1/8 (that I've ever seen). I usually use 1/4" thick Hardibacker instead. This is thicker than the 1/8" you thought you'd be using--but does provide for a strong tile base. I don't know of an 1/8" similar product--and I can't imagine it having much integrity if there were one.
Yes there are special screws. They're usually located (in big box home stores) near Hardibacker, on a rack. Ask someone there. Last ones I used were called "Rock On" and they do come in different lengths (select the length for your purpose). I like to drive them with a tough corded drill--on the hammer setting if need be. You'll go through some screw bits--pick up some extras! I also like to put thinset underneath the Hardibacker. For taping your seams (between Hardibacker sheets), use special fiberglass mesh tape--don't use the stuff for drywall.
As for the toilet flange screws, it probably is a good idea to change them. For the price, why not?
Good luck! Lay out your pattern carefully, take your time, and you'll enjoy the results for many years!
As for transition height--this is a common problem. The marble threshold is a good way to go. You see these used a lot in upper-end hotels and they do have a nice look to them.
Regards,
-k2 in CO
Moderator, Miscellaneous Forum
http://www.bobvila.com/BBS/Miscellaneous
Durarock is generally 1/2" thick, not 1/8 (that I've ever seen). I usually use 1/4" thick Hardibacker instead. This is thicker than the 1/8" you thought you'd be using--but does provide for a strong tile base. I don't know of an 1/8" similar product--and I can't imagine it having much integrity if there were one.
Yes there are special screws. They're usually located (in big box home stores) near Hardibacker, on a rack. Ask someone there. Last ones I used were called "Rock On" and they do come in different lengths (select the length for your purpose). I like to drive them with a tough corded drill--on the hammer setting if need be. You'll go through some screw bits--pick up some extras! I also like to put thinset underneath the Hardibacker. For taping your seams (between Hardibacker sheets), use special fiberglass mesh tape--don't use the stuff for drywall.
As for the toilet flange screws, it probably is a good idea to change them. For the price, why not?
Good luck! Lay out your pattern carefully, take your time, and you'll enjoy the results for many years!
As for transition height--this is a common problem. The marble threshold is a good way to go. You see these used a lot in upper-end hotels and they do have a nice look to them.
Regards,
-k2 in CO
Moderator, Miscellaneous Forum
http://www.bobvila.com/BBS/Miscellaneous
