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glendot

04:45AM | 10/07/04
Member Since: 06/26/04
30 lifetime posts
Bvflooring
This is related to my question from yesterday regarding installing ceramic tile over oak flooring. Here is the rest of the story, as Paul harvey says. My front entrance hall is about one third slate and two thirds oak flooring. The slate is outdated, the oak is all marked up from having installed carpet end carpet runners over the years. Also, I removed a large landing from the bottom of the stairs and filled in with pieces of wood up to floor level. I used floor leveler to get it all levelled out prior to installation of laminate flooring, in a tile pattern. When I started to install the laminate flooring, my wife and I were both disappointed in how it looks and took it back to the store. We chose the laminate because we could install it over the old floor without digging out the slate or removing the oak. So now we are looking into either 3/4 inch oak wood and try to match the oak on the stairs, or ceramic tile. Either presents a worry about installation. The professionals all say to put backer board under the tile. I presume this means durock. I am reluctant to do that because it will raise the foor up by about an inch, what with the backer board, cement, and the tile. The backer board probably woudn't be necessary over the slate part, anyway, but needed to keep it all level. My question about the ceramic over the old oak is whether I can put a thin moisture barrier over it. As for the e 3/4 inch real wood I think it would look good if I can get it prefinished to match the oak on the stairs. Thats what they are doing in most of the new homes. My concern would be putting it over the slate. I could not nail it but maybe could pre-drill and use concrete screws. To keep it stable and prevent the screws from loosening up, I would use construction cement, i.e. liquid nail. Would I need a vapor barrier under the wood? If so, I would need to glue it down so the construction cement works. I have worked myself into a corner by trying to avoid removing the old flooring (slate especially) and starting from scratch. I think my preference would be to go with the 3/4 inch real oak flooring. Any ideas on which might have the better success?

Floorwizard

11:06AM | 10/08/04
Member Since: 07/21/04
41 lifetime posts
the best success will be achieved by removing slate or tile or whatever.

Installing anything on top of tile will result in failure if anything happens to the original tile.

I know the hardwood will not work.

A floating hardwood however would work, but will not match the stairs.

*** "One floor expert to rule them all!" ***

glendot

04:45AM | 10/09/04
Member Since: 06/26/04
30 lifetime posts
Thanks, Floorwizard, for the reply. We chose laminate flooring in the first place so I would't have to dig out the slate. Looks like that may now be inevitable. Let me comment on the laminate flooring. We knew we could not go with a wood look laminate because it would lay in the entrance way with the grain at right angles to the grain of the oak steps, and of course it would never really match well. It would look like we unsuccessfully tied to match it up. So we went with a tile look laminate. That turned out unattractive for a number of reasons. The one foot squares on the on the faux tiles were out of proportion to the size of the hall. We need 8 inch squares. The laminate tile comes only in one foot sqares.The laminate did not have a smooth surface and did not reflect light. And it looked phony, which of course it is. And it was picked for us by the decorator from the store who came to our house! I hope others will read this post and see some of the pit falls of trying to do the flooring yourself. Another possible problem I see with installing real wood over the old oak is trying to drive the flooring nails through two layes of oak. That may be a problem. So, as you suggest, it looks like ripping up everything and starting from scratch is really the best way to go. Thanks again.
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