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t9mike

01:18PM | 01/06/05
Member Since: 01/02/05
2 lifetime posts
Bvflooring
We bought a 4 year old townhome without doing enough due diligence on some

squeaky floors: we wanted out of our apartment bad and knew we would be

re-carpeting in the new place and assumed the problems were simple loose boards

or too tight boards, and we could take care of it easily after ripping out the

old carpet. It passed inspection, so how could there be a problem, right ;-).

Anyway, having removed much carpet the condition of parts of the sub-floor on

our 3rd (and top) floor is worse than I thought. I have posted a few pics here:

http://orb.dreamhost.com/diy/q1/

Some panels are in good shape. Others have deteriorated significantly and you

can see many, many cracks going with the grain of the wood. I pulled some nails from a few

boards. I'm not sure if the rusty coating shown is normal or indicates water.

Also, in most cases there does not seem to be sufficient gap between floor

panels.

I have a few questions based on what I have found so far: Does this look like it was caused by water damage -- perhaps during

construction before the roof was finished or a major leak after the home was

finished -- or could this be caused by lack of gap, with expansion forces

between panels causing the damage?

I'd like to replace panels where necessary. My concern is how to do this

when a panel hits interior and exterior wall framing. Because this is a

townhome most (maybe all?) of the panels fall into this category. Do I need

to ensure that my cuts lines only fall on a joist? Or perhaps create

supports between joists to nail in to along edges of a room when necessary?

Sort of like sistering but perpendicular to the joist.

When not replacing a panel I planned on ensuring there was 1/8" between

boards via in-place circular saw trimming. Is this the correct gap to leave?

In boards that stay I'd like to put in wood screws. Should I remove old

nails and then the screws through the old nail holes (I'm assuming the

screws will be wider than the nails... see next question). Or should I just

lay down the screws and remove or leave the old nails?

What type of screw do you recommend?

In addition to making sure there are screws every 6" along a joist I was

planning on using adhesive as well on new panels. My thought was at the

minimum this provides a bit of extra noise dampening should boards come

loose in the future.

Thanks in advance for any help/advice.

Regards,

-Mike

t9mike

01:20PM | 01/06/05
Member Since: 01/02/05
2 lifetime posts
My post looked great in preview mode but then went to heck. So here is a better version (I hope).

We bought a 4 year old townhome without doing enough due diligence on some

squeaky floors: we wanted out of our apartment bad and knew we would be

re-carpeting in the new place and assumed the problems were simple loose

boards or too tight boards, and we could take care of it easily after

ripping out the old carpet.

Anyway, having removed much carpet the condition of parts of the sub-floor

on our 3rd (and top) floor is worse than I thought. I have posted a few

pics here:

http://orb.dreamhost.com/diy/q1/

Some panels are in good shape. Others have deteriorated significantly and

you can see many, many cracks going with the grain of the wood. I pulled

some nails from a few boards. I'm not sure if the rusty coating shown is

normal or indicates water. Also, in most cases there does not seem to be

sufficient gap between floor panels.

I have a few questions based on what I have found so far:

1. Does this look like it was caused by water damage -- perhaps during

construction before the roof was finished or a major leak after the

home was finished -- or could this be caused by lack of gap, with

expansion forces between panels causing the damage?

2. I'd like to replace panels where necessary. My concern is how to do

this when a panel hits interior and exterior wall framing. Because

this is a townhome most (maybe all?) of the panels fall into this

category. Do I need to ensure that my cuts lines only fall on a joist?

Or perhaps create supports between joists to nail in to along edges of

a room when necessary? Sort of like sistering but perpendicular to the

joist.

3. When not replacing a panel I planned on ensuring there was 1/8"

between boards via in-place circular saw trimming. Is this the correct

gap to leave?

4. In boards that stay I'd like to put in wood screws. Should I remove

old nails and then the screws through the old nail holes (I'm assuming

the screws will be wider than the nails... see next question). Or

should I just lay down the screws and remove or leave the old nails?

5. What type of screw do you recommend?

6. In addition to making sure there are screws every 6" along a joist I

was planning on using adhesive as well on new panels. My thought was

at the minimum this provides a bit of extra noise dampening should

boards come loose in the future.

Thanks in advance for any help/advice.

Regards,

-Mike
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