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philipb

09:58AM | 02/17/11
Member Since: 03/04/03
44 lifetime posts
Bvtools
I have a question on how to handle the miter calculation on a base casing joint.

This isn't ceiling/crown molding so in my mind there is no bevel angle. Which is why I seem to be struggling with an approach.

I want to cap my stair stingers with base molding. The molding would sit flat against the wall. When I get to the bottom of the stair, I need to wrap the base molding around a 90 degree corner to meet up with a hallway wall. Since the stringers are on an angle, when I get to the bottom and cut the base on an angle flush with the corner, the width of the base is actually longer that if it was sitting flat on the floor. So how to I cut the corner miter and match the base to the base on the hallway wall?

Any ideas?

Thanks for your help.

LarryG

07:59PM | 02/17/11
Member Since: 07/22/04
511 lifetime posts
I'm not too sure what you are trying to say but I have a feeling the answer to your question is to use a coped joint instead of a mitered cut.

philipb

01:56PM | 02/22/11
Member Since: 03/04/03
44 lifetime posts
Larry, thanks for your help. I was just trying to turn an outside 90 degree corner with base casing, but on one wall the casing is coming down on an angle as it is installed above the stair stringer. This needed - I presumed - a compound miter, but because only the piece of casing above the stringer needed the compound cut, the height of that casing could not match up to the casing running down the hallway.

I worked it out this weekend. The way to transition around the outside wall corner from the stringer is to use a plint block at the base of the stringer. In this manner, the casing above the stringer is a single miter cut where it meets the plint, and when base casing picks up on the hallway wall it just a butt cut at the plint.

Altereagle

12:53AM | 03/22/11
Member Since: 12/27/02
545 lifetime posts
You could have miter the base at the stinger first so it's running level then you miter that to the corner, same with the compounds for crown basically.

laredodriver

09:32AM | 05/08/11
Member Since: 05/08/11
2 lifetime posts
A coped joint would only apply to an inside corner where the two faces meet at whatever angle the corner might be. It's not always 90 degrees so that's the reason for the cope joint. What the original poster is asking is the miter joint where the angle of the stair meets with the vertical plane of the stair riser.

laredodriver

09:38AM | 05/08/11
Member Since: 05/08/11
2 lifetime posts
You don't need a compound miter. Just a miter. Take a t-bevel, also called a sliding t-bevel, and match the angle of the stair with the riser. Be sure you don't bump the setting or your miter won't turn out. Next, transfer the angle of the t-bevel to a peice of paper where the handle edge of the t-bevel is aligned with the edge of the paper and the blade extends across the paper. Mark this angle with a sharp pencil at roughly the midpoint of the paper's edge. Next, fold the paper along this line completely across the paper. Now all you do is fold this angle exactly in half making sure both edges of the paper are aligned all the way to the point. This is the angle you transfer to your miter saw to make the miter cut for your stair to riser angle. I call it the oragami miter but it's totally accurate and has bailed me out of bastid angles for many years.

rjyourwood

03:36AM | 03/05/12
Member Since: 02/20/12
7 lifetime posts
I somehow came here while searching for wooden furniture online, and after reading through the entire post and replies, I still have no idea what this is about. I am so out of date.

Richard
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