Follow Henry's advice. If you haven't done this before, here's some more explanation from an genuine amateur:
Be sure you get the mud well into the gap by using your knife alternately at angles and really push it into the gap - have a pan of water nearby to keep the mud from drying out before you get it like you want it or it will begin to "mound" if you take too long. Wet the tape. With wet hands, imbed the tape and work the excess mud out along the edges with your fingers - then take your knife and smooth along the seam applying pressure. The mud will work to either end of the knife so keep pushing it back to the middle of the knife or there'll be ridges where the end edge of the knife was. Let it dry well - sand with a wide block - don't worry about sanding through the mud at a high place or even into the paper a little. Apply more mud with a wider knife and keep the mud from working to the end edges again. This time you probably won't need to sand.
You didn't say whether the gap was at a "butt" or "bevel" joint - if a bevel, you'll have room to go over it yet again with a wider knife. If a butt, I've had good luck with this: Before you start, cut a bevel on both pieces about 1/8" each edge to make sure the mud will go into the gap and bond with the drywall.
About the wet tape and hands - I guess the pros go fast enough that the mud doesn't begin to dry - I can't yet. Nothing is more frustrating that having the mud begin to set up before you get it smoothed. And I tear the tape instead of cutting it - that tends to bevel the end edge - I can work with 4 foot of tape at a time instead of 8 foot as long as there's mud between the overlap.
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