Maybe!

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Greetings again,

For the first part, yes, use a wide putty knife at the bottom of the casing trim to gently pry the molding away from the door. Work your way up the sides of the door slowly so you do not crack the casing. when you have the casing off, you should use a pair of "vise grips" to pull the nails out from the back of the casing, so as not to leave a mark.

Next, if you look at where the fixed panel meets the operating panel, at the top, there shound be a small angle bracket that holds the door from moving. You will need to remove that so the fixed panel will be able to slide out of the way to remove the screws in the header of the vinyl frame. (There might be a clip bracket on the fixed panel side of the door frame as well.)

Now, Based on the information you gave, it would seem the top of the latch side might be able to be "sucked in" to square the opening. Remember to release the other side so it can move.

Here's the "Maybe"

However, the key is in the cross measurements. (bottom left to top right and bottom right to top left, this measurment sould be the same.) Your installer has adjusted the wheels to try to make it work so you really can't rely on the door being square. But, I would try this first.

You should shim the door before you re-screw it.

Before you replace the casing, check the fixed panel to see how it seats against the side frame.

Good luck,
Jason