Soundproofing

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I am currently constructing a sound room.

This what I have heard;
Stagger the studds, using a 6 inch base, place the 2x4's at your normal 16" but move every-other one to the front and back of the 2x6. (the less outer wall material touching the wood the better).
This breaks up the soundwaves a bit.

Leaving some dead space and filling the walls with insulation is a good idea as well. Nothing kills sound like dead space, or lead for that matter. After you have finished with the insulation. Caulk the studs with silicon, or something that absorbs vibration - letting it dry a bit seems to work better. The Semi dry caulk acts as a cusion to absorb even mor vibration = like the shocks on your car.

When putting on drywall, I have heard it is good to double it up, in between the two layers of drywall add some type of metals strips, run them down the screw paths of the already fastened layer of drywall, a litle caulking on the back side of these strips may be of some help. On the front sides of the metal strips run a bead of caulk down each one, the caulking and the metal strips seem to help with reducing even more noise and vibration. When applying the second layer of drywall securly fasten the drywall to the first layer, letting the applied caulk slightly spread over the metal strips. After all two layers of drywall is put up, tape and texture.

When using tape to seal your joints, maybe try using a fiberglass mesh. Like wall patch mesh. Seems this mesh is less likely to come apart from the wall over a long period of time. However, it is a bit more expensive.

I have done all of this, except staggering the studs, reason is due to the maximum room capacity I was trying to obtain. I used 1/2 inch drywall on the walls (two layers) and 5/8 inch on the ceiling. I did line the entire inner room with plastic because of the blow in type insulation I used. We happen to have some ducts running over head and had to drop the cieling 12.5". This left me 1/2 inch between the drywall and the duct, I applied regular 3 inch rolled insulation to the tops of the drywall panneling, then fastened them to the cieling - compressing the insulation to further dampen the echoing sound of the duct. Leaving a few small panels of drywall undone, I was then able to blow insulation on the remaining parts of the cieling. I constructed 6"x6" boxes to hous the three light fixtures, this was done to prevent any sound leackage, and to insure the saftey of the insulation from the intense heat.

A sliding glass door is ideal, but expensive, I chose a solid wood door and sealed it tightly. Extending the inner door jamb trim helped me with this.

An example

STUDstudSTUDstud
C C C Caulk
DRYWALLDRYWALL
m m m metal strip
DRYWALLDRYWALL
tapeandtexture

This helps alot, it is probably not the best way to soundproof, but its cheap.

Excuse my poor grammer, im in a hurry.