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 Paint Countertops Posted by Handyman on July 11th, 2006 04:27 PM In reply to Formica countertops by Michael Gauthier on July 26th, 2002 09:41 AM [Go to top of thread]
13 of 14 people found this post helpful
There have many, many takes on the painting of countertops.
Can it be done? Absolutely.
Is it recommended? Not generally as the surface is not as durable as other surfaces.
Below you will find a variety of answers:
This is from paintstore.com.
Most plastic laminates can usually be painted, for a temporary inexpensive change of color, by lightly sanding and priming with a primer designed for hard, non-porous surfaces. Topcoat with a product suitable for the abuse the surface will take. HOWEVER, kitchen countertops and other food preparation surfaces where there will be direct food contact, should only be painted with coatings that meet the FDA requirements for use in these areas. These products are usually expensive, two component materials, so it's usually cheaper to just replace the laminate.
*Note from BobVila.com:
There are several options for food-safe sealers. A couple are formulated by a Canadian based company "PolyVal" and "Xymax." A USA distributor of their urethanes is in Chicago, IL. They have every type of special purpose urethane that the industrial/commercial resurfacing industry could ever need (even those for chemical containment areas). PolyVal/Xymax are the only company I know of in the North America continent that have the ability to add "Microban" to their formulations (that "prevents" the growth of recoil, salmonella, and other types of germs) on surfaces. If you would like to speak with their representative as to the urethanes call 800-203-9131. You can also find many safe sealers at the home improvement chains (Lowes or Home Depot) Be sure to read the labels and insure they are graded for food preparation surface.
This was submitted by visitor Chris Romano:
Introduction:
Tired of that outdated Avocado green bathroom? Kitchen Cabinets looking kind of drab? Lets brighten things up a bit with a new painted finish; perhaps even add a decorative Faux finish. We'll show you how.
Before we get into this you need to understand that adhesion is not the problem, you have to keep in mind that the finished product is only as durable as the paint film itself.
Your automobile has one of the toughest finishes available but you would not go sliding a can of green beans across the hood without expecting some major damage.
Expect the same results from the paint on your countertop or ceramic tile.
Now if you exercise a little care and common sense, the finish will give you years of satisfactory service.
Use your cutting board; avoid harsh cleansers, soft scrub works great, a coat of paste wax once a year or so will do wonders for protecting your finish.
Painting bathtubs, toilets and appliances is best let to a professional. There are kits available but the materials involved and chemicals necessary for preparation are not only dangerous but require extensive knowledge regarding application.
Save yourself a lot of grief and contract it out to a pro.
Keeping that in mind lets get started.
First, wash the surface to with a 50/50 solution of household ammonia and water to remove soap films from bathroom surfaces or grease from kitchen walls. I also recommend you wash with a mild acid solution which is used to clean ceramic tile of excessive grout. This can be found in the tile section of most home centers, Ace hardware and tile distributors. Rinse well with plain water, and let the surface dry thoroughly.
Next, prime it with a high-quality adhesion-promoting primer like Zinsser's latex-based Bulls Eye 1-2-3 Primer-Sealer. Bulls Eye 1-2-3 adheres tenaciously to ceramic tile, glass, and other hard-to-stick-to materials. The primer provides an "anchor" for the topcoat so it can't be rubbed, chipped or scraped off easily.
If the area is going to be subjected to a lot of water such as the tile in the tub area, use BIN an alcohol base primer for maximum durability.
Follow the primer with one or two coats of a high-quality finish paint. In moisture-prone areas alkyd (oil base) finishes are preferred, as they provide a harder finish than water-base paints and are more washable and durable. There are also several epoxy coatings that are excellent for durability, check with your local paint store for availability.
If you want to paint the grout a contrasting color, you can go back over it with an artist's brush.
Your finished project will be fully cured in appx 2-3 weeks and you should avoid harsh abrasive cleaning agents, soft scrub is a good general cleaner for painted surfaces.
Zinsser's Bulls Eye 1-2-3 Primer-Sealer can be found paint stores, hardware stores, and home centers across the country. For more information, visit Zinsser's web site.
*Note from BobVila.com
The Article from Mr. Romano is similar to an article on Ceramic Tile located here:
Do It Yourself
And an article from Zinsser located here:
Zinsser
From Christopher Lowell’s Site:
He explains how to paint over anything including Formica and melamine. Basically you have to sand it to get some "tooth", apply a product called Kilz, which is found in any Home Depot, Lowes, home base etc., and paint away. Depending on use intent you may need to apply a coat (or several) of polyurethane on top to protect the surface. Christopher Lowell’s Site
Doug Seibert suggested this page:
It explains step by step how to apply a whole new layer of Formica:
Al’s Home Improvement Center
Additional Links:
Mrs Fix-it
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