Fridge too cold

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Moderator Post (s) for this thread: > Defrost water drain problem by DanO on 11/12/2008 > Drain freezing by DanO on 11/12/2008

I have a 10-year old Inglis Admiral fridge model AFT 40110 that accumulates ice in the dripping pan, and clogs the drain whole with ice. The food on the top shelf gets frozen at the back of the fridge within 2-3 days. Later, in about 2 weeks, I observe a leak from the roof.
1. Fridge is properly leveled.
2. The fridge light comes on when I open the door.
3. The compressor is running
4. The fun is running but it seems a bit noisy. There is good breeze coming into the freezer section. Temperature in freezer is -24 C, which seams to be too low.
5. I advanced the timer to the defrost cycle, while the fridge had power supplied and noted that the heating coil gets hot, and it melts the ice from cooling coils. There is a couple of dripping drops of water from the cooling coils at the time when the fridge switches into the cooling mode. I tested the heating coil (by spraying cold water on it), and it seams to be very hot, it made sizzling-like noise. So the heater is coming on as well. Defrost cycle last for 23 minutes.
Disconnected the timer. There are four terminals marked 2/PK, 1/BK, 4/OR, 3/R. I tested the timer with my meter. Set up the meter to 200 ohms, which is the lowest setting on my meter.
According to ehow.com (on how to test refrigerator defrost timer) I tested the timer using 3R as the common terminal and got no reading (1) against all remaining terminals, in both, defrost and cooling cycle. I purchased a new timer and tested it the same way, there was no reading, (or 1). Therefore, I assumed the instructions are not for my fridge.

Testing my old timer:
I figured it out that 1/BK is my common terminal, is this correct? Black lead was touched to the 1/BK, and the red lead to 4/OR during the cooling cycle, got reading of 0.4. Then Black lead was touched to the 2/PK to give no reading, or I should say 1, also in the cooling cycle.
When I advanced the timer to defrost cycle Black lead was touched to the 1/BK, and the red lead to 4/OR, got no reading, (or 1). Then Black lead was touched to the 2/PK to give reading of 0.4, also in the defrost cycle.
I performed the same test on the new timer and all the readings were identical.
I concluded that my old timer diverse power to the heater, and there is no need to replace it.
I noticed the timer is quietly ticking like a clock. Is this normal?
6. I checked that the fridge runs on 8 hours cooling and 23 minute defrost cycle.
7. I disconnected the defrost thermostat, (it was replaced 2 years ago) put in a freezer to cool it down. Tested both ends of the wires for resistance and read 0.4 on my meter. Test on warm (room temperature) thermostat shows no reading (or 1). A brand new thermostat has exactly the same readings, so I did not install a new one.

What else could be wrong? Temperature control thermostat?? And if so, how do I test it? How do I change it?

Thanks to anyone who can provide an advice.