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Winter Preparation Checklist

Conduct a thorough inspection before the season’s first cold snap as part of your winter preparation.

By Iyna Bort Caruso | Updated Sep 9, 2015 4:31 PM

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Winter Preparation

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Give your home a once-over and tend to winter preparation tasks and repairs before the year’s first frost. “Getting the exterior of the home ready for the cold winds, snow and ice is critical for keeping Old Man Winter out and keeping it warm and toasty inside,” says Reggie Marston, president of Residential Equity Management Home Inspections in Springfield, VA. By being proactive, you’ll lower your energy bills, increase the efficiency and lifespan of your home’s components, and make your property safer.

Windows and Doors

  • Check all the weatherstripping around windows and doorframes for leaks to prevent heat loss. Replace weatherstripping, if necessary.
  • Replace all screen doors with storm doors.
  • Replace all window screens with storm windows.
  • Examine wooden window frames for signs of rot or decay. Repair or replace framing to maintain structural integrity.
  • Check for drafts around windows and doors. Caulk inside and out, where necessary, to keep heat from escaping.
  • Inspect windows for cracks, broken glass, or gaps. Repair or replace, if needed.

 

Lawn, Garden, and Deck

  • Trim overgrown branches back from the house and electrical wires to prevent iced-over or wind-swept branches from causing property damage or a power problem.
  • Aerate the lawn, reseed, and apply a winterizing fertilizer to promote deep-root growth come spring.
  • Ensure rain or snow drains away from the house to avoid foundation problems. The dirt grade — around the exterior of your home — should slope away from the house. Add extra dirt to low areas, as necessary.
  • Clean and dry patio furniture. Cover with a heavy tarp or store inside a shed or garage to protect it from the elements.
  • Clean soil from planters. Bring pots made of clay or other fragile materials indoors. Because terra cotta pots can swell and crack, lay them on their sides in a wood carton.
  • Dig up flower bulbs, brush off soil, and label. Store bulbs in a bag or box with peat moss in a cool, dry place for spring replanting.
  • Remove any attached hoses and store them away for the winter to prevent cracks, preserve their shapes, and prolong their life. Wrap outside faucets with covers to prevent water damage.
  • Shut off exterior faucets. Drain water from outdoor pipes, valves, and sprinkler heads to protect against pipe bursts.
  • Inspect decks for splintering, decay, or insect damage and treat, if needed, to prevent further deterioration over the winter.
  • Clean leaves, dirt, and pine needles between the boards of wooden decks to thwart mold and mildew growth.
  • Inspect outdoor lighting around the property. Good illumination will help minimize the chance of accidents on icy walkways at night.
  • Check handrails on exterior stairs to make sure they’re well secured.

 

Tools and Machinery

  • Bring all seasonal tools inside and spray them with a coating of lightweight oil to prevent rust.
  • Weatherize your lawn mower by cleaning off mud, leaves, grass, and debris.
  • Move your snow blower and shovels to the front of the garage or shed for easy access.
  • Prepare the snow blower for the first snowfall by changing the oil and replacing the spark plug.
  • Sharpen ice chopper and inspect snow shovels to make sure they’re ready for another season of work.
  • Make sure you have an ample supply of ice melt or sand on hand for steps, walkways, and the driveway.

 

Heating, Ventilating, and Air Conditioning

  • Inspect the firebox and flue system to ensure that they’re clean of any soot or creosote and that there aren’t any cracks or voids that could cause a fire hazard.
  • Check fireplace for drafts. If it’s cold despite the damper being closed, the damper itself may be warped, worn, or rusted. Consider installing a Chimney Balloon into the flue to air seal the area tightly.
  • Clean or replace the air filter in your furnace for maximum efficiency and improved indoor air quality.
  • Clean your whole house humidifier and replace the evaporator pad.
  • Bleed valves on any hot-water radiators to increase heating efficiency by releasing air that may be trapped inside.
  • Check that smoke alarms and carbon monoxide detectors are in working order.
  • Remove air conditioners from windows or cover them with insulated liners, to prevent drafts.
  • If you have an older thermostat, replace it with a programmable unit to save on heating costs.
  • Install foam-insulating sheets behind outlets and switch plates on exterior walls to reduce outside airflow.
  • Make sure fans are switched to the reverse or clockwise position, which will blow warm air down to the floor for enhanced energy efficiency and comfort.
  • Flush a hot water heater tank to remove sediment, and check the pressure relief valve to make sure it’s in proper working order.
  • Examine exposed ducts in the attic, basement, and crawl spaces, and use a sealant to plug up any leaks.

 

Gutters, Roof, and Drains

  • Check for missing, damaged or warped shingles and replace, as necessary before you get stuck with a leak.
  • Check for deteriorated flashing at the chimney, walls, and skylights and around vent pipes. Seal joints where water could penetrate, using roofing cement and a caulking gun.
  • Check the gutters and downspouts for proper fastening, and re-secure if loose or sagging. The weight of snow and ice can pull gutters off the house.
  • Clean gutters of any debris. Make sure downspouts extend away from the house by at least 5 feet to prevent flooding of the foundation and water damage from snowmelt.
  • Clean leaves and debris from courtyard and pool storm drains to prevent blockages.
  • Ensure all vents and openings are covered to prevent insects, birds, and rodents from getting inside to nest in a warm place.

Done? Congratulations!  You’re officially ready for winter.


Thinking About Installing a Basement Bathroom? Here’s What You Need to Know

Conduct a thorough inspection before the season’s first cold snap as part of your winter preparation.

By Tony Carrick and Bob Vila | Updated Mar 8, 2022 12:27 PM

We may earn revenue from the products available on this page and participate in affiliate programs.

basement bathroom plumbing

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Adding a bathroom to a finished basement adds value to the home, but installing toilets and sinks in a below-grade environment takes more than a basic knowledge of drain pipes, water lines, and sewer lines. Transporting waste to the sewer run from a basement bathroom is challenging because the gravity assist that works for upstairs waste removal will work against waste flow below grade. Fortunately, there are a number of basement bathroom plumbing options that fall into the DIY category. That said, any new plumbing you install must meet code requirements, so be sure to research local ordinances carefully and consider hiring a master plumber for final connections.

What to Consider When Planning a Basement Bathroom Plumbing Layout 

Before breaking ground on a basement bathroom project, it’s important to think about such factors as local building codes, the placement of existing basement plumbing, and drainage for the new bathroom’s tub, sink, and toilet.

Building Codes and Permits

When taking on any remodeling project, adhering to building codes while procuring the proper permits is critical, and basement bathroom installations are no different. You must have a permit when creating any additional living space, be it a kitchen, bedroom, or bathroom. Don’t skip this part; failing to get a permit can result in fines or, even worse, an order to remove the additions. Since permits also ensure that the new addition is safe, it just makes sense to go through the process.

In addition to permits, there are a number of building codes regarding room spacing that homeowners will need to follow when constructing a below-grade bathroom. Basement bathrooms are usually pretty compact and every inch counts, so plan your space carefully. For example, a minimum ceiling height of 6 feet is required to meet International Residential Code (IRC).

The IRC also has minimum spacing requirements around toilets. There should be at least 21 inches between the toilet and sink and any opposite wall or fixture and at least 25 inches of clearance from the center of the toilet to any obstacles on either side of it. Shower stalls must be a minimum of 30 inches by 30 inches inside, and all showers and baths must have at least 24 inches of clearance in front of their entries.

The IRC also has bathroom venting requirements. Basement bathrooms must have either a window that measures at least 3 square feet (of which at least 50 percent must open) or a ceiling vent that can move at least 50 cubic feet of air per minute and is ducted to the outside.

basement bathroom plumbing

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Working with Existing Plumbing and Electrical Lines

When adding a new basement bathroom to your home, the most important decision to make is where the bathroom should go. Your best course of action is to situate a below-grade bathroom below an existing first-floor bathroom. This will allow you to take advantage of that ground floor bathroom’s existing plumbing and electrical lines, which will help keep costs down.

Lighting

Basement bathrooms typically don’t have any windows. Without natural light to illuminate the space, consider how you plan to light the room.

Another consideration that may affect your lighting choices is that the ceiling in a basement bathroom is likely lower than that of a ground level or second-floor bathroom. A 7-foot basement ceiling limits the type of ceiling light fixtures you can use for bathroom lighting. If your space has a low ceiling, consider using recessed fixtures to provide overhead lighting along with wall-mounted sconces around the vanity.

Higher ceilings give you a broader range of lighting options, including standard dome lights or elegant chandeliers.

RELATED: The Best Recessed Lighting of 2022

Understanding Aboveground vs. Belowground Drainage

For most homeowners, one of the biggest obstacles when planning a basement bathroom is determining the drainage for the toilet, sink, and shower. There must be an adequate drop from the new drain lines to the main drain to prevent backups and clogs. Ahead, learn more about options for draining a below-grade bathroom.

Plumbing Depth

Drainage is a significant factor when planning a basement bathroom. Toilet drainage lines must be installed at a steep enough angle so that gravity will carry solid waste to drain off (a minimum drop of ¼ inch for every linear foot of drain pipe). If you’re lucky, the house was built with a deep main home drain with the expectation that its owners may one day install a basement bathroom.

If the home’s existing basement plumbing lacks adequate depth, you may need to remodel the plumbing to allow for the required drainage depth to support a toilet. Another option is to install a specialized type of toilet that can operate below the level of the main drain.

RELATED: All You Need to Know About Basement Drains

Pipe Size

In addition to drainage, you’ll need to consider pipe size. The minimum size for a toilet drainage pipe is 3 inches (or 4 inches if there are two toilets using the same drain line). If your pipes are too small, you’ll need to upgrade to larger ones that will allow solid waste to pass through.

Belowground Water and Waste Pipes

In some homes, moving below-grade bathroom waste to the sewer, septic, or sanitation line is not a challenge because its lines are deep enough for add-on fixtures to benefit from gravity-assisted disposal.

A call to the public works department will give you a general idea of how deep sewer lines are in your area. Information specific to a home’s septic lines should also be readily available to the homeowner. A plumber or plumbing contractor can help you determine flow rates, and whether the system your home has can effectively remove waste from basement fixtures.

If your home’s wastewater drains by gravity into municipal sewer lines, consider installing a backwater valve to prevent sewage backup in the basement. A backwater valve may require a permit, so check with your local building department and consult a plumbing contractor before you begin.

basement bathroom plumbing

upflushtoilet.com

Aboveground Solutions

There are a few different ways to transport bathroom or basement wastewater to sewer or septic lines: Aboveground solutions include the “upflushing toilet,” freestanding sewage-ejector systems, and composting toilets. Aboveground solutions are those that do not require the homeowner or installer to cut through any existing basement slab, resulting in lower installation costs.

Basement Toilet Options

Adding a toilet to existing plumbing may not always be an option, especially if the basement toilet is located below the main drain line. Luckily, there are numerous basement toilet options on the market that can operate below a home’s existing drainage lines.

Upflushing Toilets

Upflushing toilets vary in look and operation, but generally include a pumping mechanism hidden within or behind the toilet. Some upflushing toilets permit additional waste-producing fixtures, like sinks and shower drains, to drain into them. These toilet systems are expensive, but are cheaper to install than some of these other types of toilets.

“Upflushing toilets sit on top of the floor, you don’t have to break the concrete, and servicing them is easy,” says Larry Sturm, a master plumber in Pennsylvania and owner of Sturm Plumbing, the Faucet Doctor plumbing supply store, and UpFlushToilet.com. “Tie-ins take about a half hour, and recovering accidentally flushed items is pretty easy.”

bathroom basement plumbing

upflushtoilet.com

Macerating Toilets

Some upflushing toilet systems include a macerating or grinding feature that reduces waste down to smaller pieces prior to pumping, eliminating clogging issues. The Saniplus macerating toilet from Saniflo is an upflushing toilet system with a toilet bowl, toilet tank, and macerating unit.

The macerating unit (which also houses an electrically powered motor and pump) can be placed in the bathroom or behind the wall, and can pump waste 12 feet vertically and/or 150 feet horizontally. The Saniplus allows for accompanying sink and bath or shower gray water discharge as well, costs about $900, and is easily installed and serviced.

Composting Toilets

Composting toilets are also viable solutions for below-grade situations, but they are meant strictly for toilet waste. Composting toilets require little or no water, and must have venting to the outside for the composting process to work. The Excel Composting Toilet from Sun-Mar requires no electricity, is self-contained, rests on the floor, and uses a biodrum for quick and odor-free waste decomposition.

These environmentally friendly toilets reduce water waste, and do not use chemicals for the composting process. There is a limit to how much material the toilets can compost in a day, so it is essential to monitor use and to empty the unit as needed. Composting toilets can cost more than $1,000.

RELATED: The Best Composting Toilets of 2022

basement bathroom plumbing

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Basement Toilets with Ejector Pump

Another below-grade option involves the installation of an ejector pump. An ejector pump such as the Superior Pump sits in a sump basin under the bathroom’s plumbing. When the wastewater level in the basin reaches a certain level, the basement toilet pump turns on and begins pumping waste to the level of the main drain.

Keep in mind that an ejector pump differs from a sump pump. An ejector pump has a built-in grinder that allows it to move solid waste, whereas a sump pump can move liquids only. While an ejector basement bathroom pump is a viable solution, the position of the pump in a basin makes it harder to access for maintenance and repair. An ejector pump also requires a separate vent line that runs from the basin to the exterior of the home to prevent pressure from building up inside of it.

Basement Shower (or Bathtub) Installation

Installing a below-grade shower or bathtub involves the same complexities as installing any other type of below-grade plumbing, which means there’s a good chance you’ll have to tear into the concrete basement floor. You can tie a bathroom tub or shower into an upflush toilet system, which eliminates the need to break into the concrete floor. The system sends the wastewater from the shower drain and toilet to a holding tank before being pumped to the main sewer line.

basement bathroom plumbing

Final Thoughts

While installing a basement bathroom is a worthwhile project that can augment a basement living area, it usually demands plumbing knowledge and expertise that the average homeowner typically doesn’t possess. While that doesn’t mean the DIYer should recruit a contractor to complete the entire job, it is a good idea to hire a professional to handle the plumbing upgrades such a renovation usually requires.

FAQs About Adding a Bathroom to a Basement

If you’re wondering whether it is OK for your bathroom’s sink and toilet to share a drain, or how long that expensive upflush toilet will last, then read on for answers.

Q: Can a toilet and sink share the same drain?

According to regulation in the U.S., a toilet and sink can share the same drain. In fact, in most homes, waste water and solids from the toilet line, sink, and bath drains end up in the same sewer line.

Q: How much does it cost to rough in the plumbing for a basement?

Roughing in plumbing for a basement bathroom is a full-day job that typically costs between $320 and $600.

Q: How long do upflush toilets last?

Upflush toilets, which include a macerator system and pump, typically last between 10 and 15 years.


Filing Techniques

Building a new bathroom below grade presents all kinds of challenges, from low ceilings to a lack of natural light. Learn why basement bathroom plumbing is usually the biggest obstacle of all, and what you can do to ensure a smooth renovation.

By Bob Vila | Updated Apr 29, 2015 12:19 PM

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How to Use a Wood File - Filing Tools

Photo: wood-carving-tools.com

The first time I saw my father cut a piece of stock with a handsaw, he made it look easy. When I tried it, I discovered it wasn’t quite as simple as it appeared. Filing is the same way: It takes a little technique and some practice before the file fits naturally in your hand, and your stroke is smooth and regular.

Use a Handle. File handles are easily attached and detached (that way, you don’t need one for every file, but one will serve several files of similar sizes). Insert the tang end (the pointed tongue) into the handle, and tap it in, using your benchtop or a wooden mallet; don’t hammer the file into the handle. Using the handle is a good safety precaution: The tangs are surprisingly sharp.

Clamp the Workpiece First. Files are most efficient when wielded with two hands, one at the tip of the file, its handle in the other. Which means that the workpiece must be secured, perhaps in a vise or by bench dogs.

Find the Right File. Flat files are suited to smoothing flat surfaces and convex curves, curved ones for concave (inside) curves. Half-round files work best for large holes or curves, round files for arcs with smaller radii.

Filing Metal. For rough work, file in a straight line across the piece, keeping the file at roughly a thirty-degree angle to the length of the stock. File away from you, varying the direction of your stroke (though not the angle) in order to be sure that your filing surface remains flat and true.

As with a handsaw, lift the file off the workpiece slightly on the return stroke. To drag it back across after a cut stroke won’t file off any additional material and may dull the file.

More pressure should be applied for rough work, a light touch for less demanding filing.

For finishing the surface, draw a single-cut file along the length of the piece. This will remove the filing marks across the piece.

Filing Wood. For the rough shaping, use a rasp. It cuts rapidly, but leaves a coarse surface. Follow the rasp with a smoothing file.


Protective Gear

It takes a little technique and some practice before the file fits naturally in your hand, and your stroke is smooth and regular.

By Bob Vila | Updated Jul 9, 2013 11:40 AM

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Photo: leaderschoiceinsurance.com

There’s nothing hard about wearing safety goggles or earplugs or a respirator when they are needed. The cost for such protective gear can be very small — for less than ten dollars, you can buy the most basic of safety glasses, earplugs, and a simple disposable mask. Consider such purchases as the equivalent of a small health insurance policy, money well spent.

If you are serious about the work you do in your workshop, and you have invested – or are about to invest – in an assortment of quality power tools and other shop equipment, it makes good sense to buy quality protective equipment as well.

Full-Face Shield. A full-face shield costs a bit more than safety goggles or glasses, but will give you maximum range of vision with essentially no blind spots. A shield is perfect for running a table saw or other stationary equipment where you work upright, feeding stock into a machine.

Hearing Protectors. If you use power tools, wear some sort of hearing protector. I understand the rationale that lots of people employ to avoid wearing one: “If the noise doesn’t hurt, it really couldn’t be very harmful, could it?” The answer is yes, it can and probably will cause hearing loss over time. Don’t take the chance.

If you have an especially loud tool (a direct-drive table saw or a shaper, for example), consider buying protectors that resemble earmuffs. For most home workshops, plugs or foam pads mounted on a headband will do.

Lung Protection. For only a few cents, you can purchase a disposable fabric mask with elastic straps that hold it in place over your nose and mouth. For an occasional need, such masks are quite adequate, but if you frequently sand, strip, scrape, or paint, a more sophisticated variation of the same device would be in order.

Called respirators, they filter fumes and dust. Most have twin cartridges built into the chin-piece of the mask. The filters in the respirator will need to be changed occasionally, both because they get dirty (accumulating particulate matter over time, for example) and because different filters serve different needs.

Paper filters are best for dusty applications or when spray painting. Charcoal cartridges are suitable for working with chemicals or other tasks that involve fumes. When the paper becomes clogged (and breathing more difficult) or when you begin to smell the vapors, change the filters.


Architectural Styles of Classical Columns

The right protective gear is like a small health insurance policy.

By Bob Vila | Updated Jun 17, 2019 2:10 PM

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Greek Columns, Ionic Columns, Architectural Columns

The Greeks borrowed the column from the Egyptians and synthesized it into an architectural style that was characteristically their own. The first fluted columns date back to Egypt’s Middle Kingdom (2040–1640 BC). The principle architectural ornamentation used by the Greeks was also derived from Eastern predecessors.

There were three orders of columns: Doric, Ionic, and Corinthian. The Doric column is the oldest, dating back to around 600 BC. The Doric column has no base. It was placed directly on the stylobate (the top step of the temple floor). It has a fluted shaft which tapers toward the top and a capital consisting of a simple curved member upon which sits a square block called the abacus. The top section of the shaft and the capital were cut from one block of stone. The transition from the shaft to the capital was at first defined by a concave moulding. As the style evolved, this feature was replaced by three or four projecting bands.

The Ionic column developed in the late fifth century B.C. Its shaft is more slender than the shaft of the Doric column, and the capital is distinguished by a pair of volutes (which look like rams’ horns) back and front, beneath which the necking is generally embellished. While the flutings of the Doric columns meet in a sharp angle, the flutings of the Ionic column are separated from each other by a narrow flat band. The Ionic column has a clearly defined base, with carved mouldings that sit on the stylobate. On the whole the look of the Ionic column is more graceful than the Doric.

The Corinthian column is even more highly ornamented than the Ionic. Its capital is further embellished with a single or double row of stylized acanthus leaves. On some Corinthian columns, volutes appear to grow out of the leaves. The base is similar to the Ionic but more refined. The Corinthian column evolved in the second century B.C. and continued to be a popular element in Roman architecture.

Tuscan columns were a Roman development. In many ways they evoke a return to the simplicity of the Doric column. Their shafts are generally tapered but unfluted. The base and capital are virtually unembellished.


House Style: Garrison Colonial

The column is a fundamental architectural element and one of the defining characteristics of Classical architecture.

By Bob Vila | Updated Jul 9, 2013 11:17 AM

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Garrison Colonial House Style

New England Garrison House in Norwell, MA. Photo: from Bob Vila's Building and Addition for an Elderly Parent

Origins and Early 20th Century Adaptations of the Garrison House
Colonial is one of the most adaptable styles. The garrison colonial house is representative.  It is rectangular with two stories. The distinguishing characteristic is the 2nd-story overhang in the front. According to legend, the original houses in this style were blockhouses that were built by the early colonists to defend against the Indians.  In truth, it probably evolved from the Elizabethan townhouse.

Historic garrison houses were rare, a fact that was emphasized in a magazine feature in 1913. One 17th-century model was described as “portraying a type of architecture not found anywhere else.” That was soon to change. 

Beginning in the 1920s, the garrison house was a type of architecture found in many towns.  It was also promoted for country houses. These early 20th-century Garrison Colonial Revivals were earnest and conscientious adaptations of original garrison houses.

Informal Mid-century Garrison Colonial Revivals
The Great Depression, World War II, and the demand for mass housing made it impracticable to continue building houses with the same historic precision. The mid-century garrison houses reflect the shift to a more approximate Colonial style. They are simplified and mass-produced. Just as Colonial design was functional and no-frills, explained the decorating magazines, so too was modern suburban design.

Walk through a mid-century suburb and you will see many garrison houses with multi-paned sash windows and white clapboard siding.  The interiors originally had brickwork and wood paneling (stained and painted), and sturdy rustic furnishings.  The wood box next to the chimney was recommended as the place to conceal the television.

Colonial + Modern Design
Mixing Colonial with Modern pieces was a popular practice following World War II.  Danish teak and bentwood chairs were considered compatible with the things you inherited from Grandma. And so, while Mid-century Modern is the hot trend in architectural preservation today, keep in mind that the Colonial Revival is part of the Mid-century repertoire.


Everything You Need to Know About How to Sharpen a Spade Bit

Here are some ways to spot this simple colonial style house.

By Tom Scalisi and Bob Vila | Updated Aug 30, 2021 9:10 AM

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sharpen spade bit

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Spade bits, it seems, are always encountering nails, at least in the kinds of rough drilling chores that renovation work involves. Even if you’re well-versed in how to use a drill, nails, screws, staples, and other blade-dulling obstructions happen. Luckily, spade bits are among the easiest of drill bit types to sharpen.

The Anatomy of a Spade Bit

Before we get around to sharpening, let’s take a look at the anatomy of a spade bit. There are five main parts, three of which you’ll sharpen:

  1. The shank is the part of the spade bit that inserts in the drill’s chuck. You’ll want to clamp this part into a vise while you’re sharpening the bit.
  2. The cable hole is for attaching electrical cable, allowing users to pull the wire back through the hole after drilling.
  3. The center point is the tallest point on the business end of the spade bit, and it holds the bit’s location as it drills. It will need sharpening.
  4. The spurs are the spiky wings at each end of the spade bit, and they do much of the initial cutting, determining the width of the hole. They also need sharpening.
  5. The flats are the beveled sections between the spurs and the center point, and they remove the bulk of the material. They need to be sharpened as well.
sharpen spade bit

Photo: Amazon.com

How to Sharpen a Spade Bit

If you don’t know which parts of the bit to sharpen, or why, you might struggle with the process. The following sections will point out which areas to focus on so you’ll know how to sharpen a spade bit.

STEP 1: Sharpen the flats.

The flats do the bulk of material removal, and they need to be sharp to work effectively. As the bit spins around the center point, the flats come in contact with the wood inside the cutting diameter. If the flats are sharp, they’ll shave off a little bit more with every rotation. If they aren’t, they’ll heat up and eventually burn the wood.

STEP 2: Sharpen the center point.

The center point doesn’t remove much material, but it’s vital for drilling an accurate and symmetrical hole. The point bores into the wood ahead of the spurs and flats, so it needs to be sharp to stay on course. If it’s not sharp, making progress will be difficult and you may not end up with a symmetrical hole.

STEP 3: Sharpen the spurs.

The spurs align with the edge of the spade bit, and it’s important that they’re sharp to make drilling easier and accurate. If sharpened carefully, these points will efficiently remove the outer material, leaving a perfectly sized hole for the rest of the spade bit to pass through. If they’re dull or sharpened incorrectly, the user will have to force the bit through, sacrificing accuracy.

Note: Not all spade bits have spurs. Some have flats that extend from the center point to the edge of the bit. These bits are easier to sharpen, but they’re a bit less accurate.

Methods for Sharpening a Spade Bit

There’s more than one way to sharpen a spade bit. The following guides offer three methods, each with its pros and cons. Be sure to choose the method that sounds most applicable to your situation. It helps if you already own the required materials.

sharpen spade bit

Photo: istockphoto.com

1. Use a bench grinder.

Set the tool rest on your bench grinder 8 degrees down from horizontal (that is to say, 8 degrees past 3 o’clock, when looking at the end of the grinding wheel).

Position the bit with one of its shoulders flush to the wheel with the bevelled side visible from the top. Before starting the grinder, tighten a stop collar on the shaft of the drill just a hair from the edge of the tool rest. Now, start the machine and grind the edge until the stop collar pre­vents further grinding; turn the bit over, line up the cutting flat on the opposite shoulder, and repeat. The stop collar will ensure that the bit is ground symmetrically. Be careful not to grind the center point during sharpening, which could throw its symmetry off-center.

Keep in mind that this method will produce a sharp flat, but it doesn’t do much for the point. It will also remove the spurs entirely, so it’s best for bits without them. But, as long as the flats are sharp, it should add usable life to the spade bit.

2. Use a file.

While a bit more tedious and time-consuming, sharpening a spade bit with a file is far more accurate than using a grinder and it leaves the bit entirely intact (aside from removing the dulled metal). All you need is a vise or clamp and a set of needle files (which you can find on Amazon).

Start by clamping the spade bit into a bench vise or clamping it firmly to a work table. Then, choose the appropriately sized metal file for the flats. Match the file’s angle to the angle of the bevel on one of the flats (this is easier than it sounds). Make a few forward passes, applying light pressure and counting as you go. Once the flat is sharpened, switch to the other side of the spade bit, and make the same number of passes on that side to ensure symmetry.

The same process applies to each spur and the center point. Simply match the angle of the bevel and make a few forward passes with the file, repeating the process on the other side.

Note: Your file should go past the bit from shank to tip, not tip to shank. If you file toward the bit, you will risk running your hand into the center point or spur, causing a potentially serious injury.

3. Use a drill sharpening machine.

If you’re lucky enough to own a drill sharpening machine with a spade bit attachment, you can use it to freshen up your dull spade bits. The process is fairly easy:

  1. Clamp the spade bit into the spade bit holder. This is a separate attachment from the twist bit holder, and your machine may not have one. If that’s the case, use one of the previous methods to sharpen your bits.
  2. Insert the spade bit holder into the machine and slide the grinding wheel to the left of the bit. Lock the bit into place with the lever on the spade bit holder. The holder will act as a jig during sharpening.
  3. Slide the spade bit holder back and turn the sharpener on. Slide the holder forward so the bit makes contact with the grinding wheel, and use the lever or squeeze handle to move the grinding wheel left and right. Be careful not to grind the spurs off, if the bit has them. The shape of the grinding wheel allows it to refresh their edges as well as the edges on the center point.
  4. Remove the spade bit holder from the sharpening port, flip it over, and repeat the sharpening process.
sharpen spade bit

Photo: istockphoto.com

Testing a Freshly Sharpened Spade Bit

The best way to test a freshly sharpened spade bit is to drill a few holes in a piece of scrap wood. Be sure that the wood doesn’t contain nails, screws, or staples, or else you’ll have to go back to the drawing board.

As the bit bores into the wood, it should cut smoothly without much hopping or wobbling. It also should not generate smoke. Stop about halfway through the hole and check for any burning. If the bit is cutting smoothly and not causing any burning, and if the hole looks symmetrical, you’ve sharpened it properly and it’s ready for use.

FAQs About How to Sharpen Spade Bits

If you are still confused about using and sharpening spade bits, here’s are some of the most frequently asked questions on the topic.

Q. What projects are spade bits designed for?

Spade bits are popular for rough carpentry and electrical projects because they enable users to bore holes quickly and accurately in wood, plywood, and other softer materials. They’re also helpful for installing doorknobs in slab doors if used carefully.

Q. Can a spade bit be used in a drill press?

You can use a spade bit in a drill press, but there are a few things to keep in mind if you do:

  1. Ensure that the table is low enough that the bit won’t strike it. You can add a sacrificial piece of wood underneath, if necessary.
  2. Be sure that the wood is firmly clamped to the drill press. Spade bits have a tendency to grab wood, potentially whipping it across the table like a baseball bat.

Q. Is a spade bit different from a Forstner bit?

Yes. A spade bit’s design makes it useful for drilling entirely through a material. A Forstner bit can drill through a material, but it’s commonly used for creating round, flat-bottomed recesses in a workpiece to accommodate dowels and hinges that don’t pass completely through.

Q. When should a spade bit be used and when should a hole saw be used?

Spade bits are rough carpentry and electrical tools, so they’re best used to bore holes no one will see. Hole saws are more appropriate for applications where the appearance of the hole and surrounding materials matter, such as:

Also, spade bits are not for use with metal, while some hole saws are designed specifically for this purpose.

sharpen spade bit

Photo: Amazon.com

Final Thoughts

We hope you now know that the pile of dull spade bits in your workshop isn’t destined for the garbage and that these bits actually aren’t difficult to sharpen. Whether you choose to use a bench grinder, a needle file, or that old drill bit sharpener, those old bits can be brought back to life.


Radiant Floor Heating 101

Don’t toss those spade bits quite yet! These three sharpening methods can help you get more use out of your old spade bits.

By Joe Provey and Bob Vila | Updated Feb 10, 2021 12:17 PM

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Radiant Heat vs. Forced Air

Illustration: Findanyfloor.com

Radiant floor heating is arguably the ideal home heating system. It’s comfortable, efficient, unobtrusive, quiet, and does not blow dust and allergens around the way forced hot air systems do. Instead of overheating the room’s perimeter in the hopes that the warm air will travel throughout the space before rising, subfloor heating serves up heat from below. The result is a more even overall heat that warms everything in the room, including surfaces, furnishings, and, most importantly, you. Radiant heat is similar to the heat you feel when you stand by a window on a sunny cold day. Your face feels warm, but the sun didn’t need to heat the air outside to make you feel that way.

For the record, subfloor heating has been around for centuries, from the hypocausts—a floor raised on pillars where heat could circulate below and radiate through layers of tiles and stone—of the ancient Turkish and Roman baths, to Frank Lloyd Wright’s turn-of-the-century adoption of more modern Japanese examples. And while the decision to install radiant heating used to be a pre-construction call, today’s innovations make it feasible—and, even DIY-suitable—for existing home retrofits.

Types of Radiant Floor Heating Systems

Radiant floors are heated either with electric resistance cables or hot water flowing inside tubing.

Thermosoft Thermo Tile 120 V Mats Radiant Floor Heating Bob Vila

Electric systems

Electric radiant heating systems are typically supplemental, not meant to be the sole heat source for a room. The cables, which are often pre-attached to mats for ease of installation, are installed over the subfloor in a bed of thin-set mortar. Ceramic or stone tile are popular finished floor choices. There are also radiant electric floor heating pads that can be installed under laminate and other floating floors, such as engineered hardwood. One manufacturer, Thermosoft, makes pads that produce 31 BTUs per square foot. Installation is simple. Just roll it out, tape it in place, cover with floating-type flooring, and make the electrical connections. No mortar is required.

Don’t want to pull up your existing flooring? Companies such as SunTouch make electric radiant pads that fit in joist bays under the subfloor. You will, of course, need access to the bays from a basement or crawl space. Batts of fiberglass insulation are installed under the mats so most of the heat goes up, not down.

Radiant Heat

Photo: manasquanplumber.com

Hydronic systems

Hydronic radiant heating systems are usually designed to heat an entire house. Water is heated to between 100 and 120 degrees Fahrenheit by a boiler and circulated through tubing under floors. The tubing can be installed in several ways: embedded in a concrete slab, installed over an existing slab in cement, stapled under subflooring, or fitted inside the channels of specially designed subfloor panels. Any kind of finished flooring, including hardwood strip flooring, vinyl, or carpeting, can be installed above it. (Note: Some installers may recommend engineered wood rather than solid wood flooring products in homes with high moisture levels. Otherwise, changes in moisture content can cause wood planks to cup, bow, or warp.)

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More Comfort, Lower Energy Costs

Radiant heating is more comfortable than other systems for a variety of reasons. First and foremost, it feels warmer because the heat is delivered where you live—near the floor. Since all surfaces in the room are also being heated, there are no cold objects to draw heat from you and make you feel cold. In addition, radiant heat does not constantly cycle on and off, causing you to be too hot one minute and too cool the next. Nor does it dry out the air that in turn dries out nasal membranes. Plus, radiant heat is relatively draft-free. There are no supply and return registers or convection-reliant radiators, and there is less air leakage around doors and windows. Finally, the air inside the home tends to be cleaner because dust and allergens are less likely to be stirred up by air currents.

Photo: fotosearch.com

Because electric heat is expensive, electric radiant floors are typically limited to small areas, such as a bath or kitchen. Programmable thermostats with both air and floor temperature limits are recommended with such systems, to save on energy costs. Hydronic radiant floor systems save energy and lower fuel bills because radiant heat feels comfortable at lower air temperatures, enabling you to lower the thermostat. Further savings can be realized because running a high-efficiency boiler at lower temperatures will increase its lifespan. In addition, hydronic radiant heat is more efficient than other systems because it uses relatively low water temperatures to heat your home. In effect, the entire floor is a radiator, so it doesn’t have to be as hot as conventional radiators. Boilers can heat water to lower temperatures more efficiently than they can heat water to higher temperatures.

4 Reasons Designers Love Working with Radiant Heat

Photo: warmboard.com

Recent Innovations

The growing popularity of PEX (cross-linked polyethylene) tubing during the past 15 to 20 years has made radiant floors easier to install and leak-free. This was not so with ‘50s- and ‘60s-vintage radiant systems that relied on copper tubing embedded in concrete. With time, the tubing leaked and the systems were abandoned. Early on, PEX was not without hiccups as well. Tiny amounts of oxygen are able to penetrate the PEX lining, causing corrosion to metal components, such as cast iron boilers. Newer versions of PEX include an oxygen barrier.

The growing popularity of solar heating has also caused builders and homeowners to give radiant floor heat a second look. Solar energy is a good heat source for radiant floors because solar thermal collectors are very efficient at supplying the lower water temperatures that such systems require.

Simplified installation

Installations have been simplified in recent years with the advent of subflooring that’s pre-fitted with tubing channels. Warmboard, for example, manufactures 4 x 8 radiant floor panels for new construction and 2 x 4 panels for remodeling that are lined with aluminum sheeting for even heat distribution. The panels are more expensive than materials used in some other systems, but they are more efficient and reduce the labor costs, too.

Radiant cooling

The only negative for radiant floor heating is that it’s not so easy to use for cooling. With a conventional forced-air heating system, the same ducts that deliver hot air through ducts from the furnace can be used to introduce cool air from a central air conditioner. While radiant cooling is possible, it’s typically not cost effective to install. A chiller or geothermal heat pump must be used to supply the cold water. In addition, the tubing for radiant cooling is best run in the ceiling (not the floor, the better location for heating). And while radiant cooling systems will reduce air temperature, dehumidification may also be needed to make occupants feel cool.

Costs of Radiant Floor Systems

For new construction, a hydronic radiant floor system is likely to cost more than forced hot air (ducts and registers) or hydronic systems (baseboard radiators). In the long run, however, it will save money due to lower thermostat settings and higher efficiency. The cost of retrofitting hydronic radiant flooring varies depending upon whether there is access to the subfloor and the extent to which flooring and ceilings must be torn out and reinstalled. As a starting point, materials and mechanical equipment for installing hydronic radiant heat in a 2000 sq. ft. home cost about $3,500 or $1.75 per sq. ft., according to the Radiant Floor Company. This excludes the heat source and assumes two zones (a 1000 sq. ft. basement and 1000 sq. ft. first floor). Labor costs vary by the job and location.

Electric radiant floor heating costs about $6 per sq. ft. for materials but is often less expensive to install because of lower labor costs. Unfortunately, it’s far more costly to operate and therefore generally makes sense as a supplemental, not primary, heat source.

Is Radiant Heating Right for You?

Radiant heat—a no-brainer if you’re building a new house—can be retrofitted to fit the floors of existing homes, too, although installation costs will be higher. In retrofits, tubing is attached to the underside of the first-floor subfloor, assuming there is access to it from a basement or crawl space. If the renovation is extensive and the finished floor is going to be replaced in any case, it’s usually better to install tubing over the subfloor where it will be more efficient, easier to install, and require less tubing. Adding radiant heat to second and third levels, when existing floors are to remain in place, may require removing the ceiling of the rooms below to gain access to the underside of the subfloor.

Your heat source will also factor into your decision. If you have an efficient boiler that’s not too old, it probably can be used to supply heat to your radiant floors. If your boiler has seen better days, choose a high-efficiency, condensing, gas-modulating boiler that is capable of heating your domestic hot water, too.


Asphalt Shingles 101

Radiant floor heating, popular in new construction, has become a viable retrofit option.

By Merv Kaufman and Bob Vila | Updated Oct 5, 2020 8:22 PM

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Asphalt Shingles

CertainTeed Roofing Landmark Shingles in Hunter Green. Photo: CertainTeed

Economical to produce, relatively easy to install and widely available, asphalt shingles are today’s most popular roofing material—not only because they’re less costly than wood, wood shakes, tile, metal or slate, but also because their guaranteed life span pits them favorably against competitors. At least a dozen major U.S. and Canadian building-product manufacturers market asphalt shingles, including GAF, CertainTeed and Owens Corning.

Asphalt Shingle Basics

Asphalt shingles come in two varieties: fiberglass and organic.

  • Fiberglass shingles are made of a woven fiberglass base mat, covered with a waterproof asphalt coating, and topped with ceramic granules that shield the product from harmful UV rays. Because of the composition of the fiberglass mat, less asphalt is needed to give the shingles their durability and strength. The result is a lighter weight and thinner roofing material. Fiberglass shingles also have a higher fire rating than organic varieties and generally carry a longer warranty. Fiberglass shingles were developed in the 1980s, but have quickly become the roofing material of choice for most homeowners and contractors today.
  • The traditional organic mat-based shingles are made from a recycled layer of felt paper, asphalt-saturated for waterproofing, and coated with adhesive asphalt into which the ceramic granules are embedded. With 40 percent more asphalt than their fiberglass counterparts, the traditional organic mat-based shingles are heavier, thicker and more costly. While organic shingles are considered more rugged and more flexible, they are also more absorbent and can warp over time. The additional asphalt content also makes them less environmentally friendly.
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Types of Asphalt Shingles

Regardless of whether they are fiberglass- or organic-based, asphalt shingles generally measure 12 by 36 inches and are commonly manufactured in two different types:

  • Three-tab shingles are distinguished by cutouts—tabs—made along their long lower edge. The result, says Joan Crowe, a technical services director for the National Roofing Contractors Association (NRCA), is that “each shingle looks like three separate pieces when installed, but it’s only one.” Three-tab shingles have been around a long time and are still the most economical and most popular shingle today.
  • Architectural shingles contain no cutouts, but their lower portions are laminated with an additional asphalt layer. This creates the contoured, dimensional look that gives them their name. Asphalt sealant bonds the layers, reinforcing the shingles’ waterproof capability. Though durable, architectural shingles are not recommended for low-sloping roofs, which are more vulnerable to wind-driven rain.

Asphalt Shingle Styles and Colors

Installed properly, asphalt shingles are no longer easy to identify. Why? Some are made to convincingly mimic the look of slate, wood shakes or even tile. And shingle shapes can be similarly varied; consider the scalloped-edge tabs that complement Victorian architecture or the square, slate-like shingles perfectly suited for Colonial homes.

Color choices are more varied than ever, depending on your taste and the style of your home. You’ll generally find tones ranging from pale gray, medium gray and dark gray to beige, reddish and medium brown to dark brown, plus shades of blue and blue green. There are also variegated looks achieved by mixing light and dark tones skillfully, plus weathered looks designed to make a new roof-look suit a vintage house. There are interactive tools online that can help you “try on” colors and styles to find the asphalt shingle best suited to your home.

Asphalt Shingles

GAF Timerbline® ArniorShield Asphalt Shingles Colors. Photo: GAF

In addition to color and style, today’s manufacturers are also adopting energy-saving, cool-roof technology to help reduce the amount of heat absorbed by the roof. CertainTeed’s Landmark Solaris, for example, is a steep-slope, solar reflective asphalt roofing shingle that contains advanced colored granules that reflect the sun’s rays and can reduce a roof’s temperature by as much as 20% in the summer. Similar ENERGY STAR-rated technology is available with Owens Corning’s Duration Premium Cool Shingles and GAF’s Timberline Cool Series Energy-Saving Shingles.

How Long Do Asphalt Shingles Last?

Manufacturer warranties currently guarantee asphalt shingles a 15- to 30-year useful life. Why the wide span? Climate, weather and environmental factors. Homeowners in areas enduring long summers with high heat may need to replace roofing sooner than homeowners in cooler regions. Most damaging are sudden spiking temperatures—from 40 or 50 degrees at night to well over 100 by midday, for example. Similarly, in areas known for severe winters, ice dams formed as water freezes may aggravate tiny cracks and fissures that eventually necessitate repairs.

Roof pitch also affects shingle life. The steeper the slope, the likelier it is that water and ice can drain off quickly and not remain to become destructive. It is for this reason that architectural shingles, though durable, are not recommended for low-sloping roofs, which are more vulnerable to wind-driven rain and ice buildup.

Algae and fungus growth can also be potentially damaging for roofing in perennially damp or subtropical areas.  Depending on where you live, you might want to consider algae-resistant shingles, some of whose ceramic granules are coated with leachable copper to prevent discoloration and long-term damage from algae and moss growth. Keep in mind that algae resistance could add 10 to 15 percent to your materials budget.

Asphalt Shingle Costs

Asphalt shingle pricing is influenced somewhat by geography but mostly by regional differences in labor cost. According to Tom Bollnow, senior director of technical services at the NRCA, “Labor-wise, asphalt shingles are still the least expensive to install on a roof.” This, he believes, may be one reason nearly 70 percent of domestic roofing installations are asphalt shingles. Even so, price swings are notable. Says Crowe, “We tell homeowners all the time to get three or four contractor estimates. In the same region it’s possible to get different numbers.”

Generally speaking, the average cost of asphalt shingle roofing is $.80 to $1.20 per square foot for the materials. For a medium-pitch roof, the average cost will be somewhere between $100 and $200 per square for the shingles alone. (A square in “roofing lingo” is equal to the size of a 10’ x 10’ area, or 100 square feet.) Making asphalt shingles even more desirable is the fact that they can be applied directly over old shingles, provided the roof deck is in good condition. If, however, there are already two or more shingle layers, or your existing roof is shake-shingled, it’s advisable to remove the old before applying the new.

Warranties

No matter which type, style or color you select, you’ll want your asphalt-shingle purchase to include a long-life warranty. Be aware, however, that DIY-installed shingles may not be covered—and that warranty coverage can be nullified if the manufacturer determines its product was installed improperly. This is not to say that an experienced DIYer shouldn’t install roof shingles, only that choosing not to hire a licensed, certified and fully insured roofing contractor may involve more than just physical risk.

Warranties mainly cover defects—shingle cupping or curling, for example, plus granule loss and thermal splitting. Study the proffered warranty before making a purchase decision. Make sure you understand that your warranty may not include the cost of labor for shingle repair or replacement. Also, most warranties don’t cover the wrath of Mother Nature: earthquakes, hurricanes, tornadoes, severe wind or hail storms. Note that if you sell your home during the warranty period, coverage will likely end.


All You Need to Know About Emergency Generators

Learn everything you need to know about asphalt shingles—their type, style, color choices, cost and durability.

By Bob Vila | Updated Oct 21, 2020 9:20 AM

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Home Backup Generators

Photo: wescarverelectric.com

A power outage that lasts a few hours is often nothing more than an inconvenience, requiring some flashlights and a little patience. But when a major storm knocks out electricity for days, life without a generator can become real bleak, real fast. Food spoils, mold grows, and basements prone to flooding are robbed of their working sump pump and begin to take on water. Extended power outages in the winter can be even more dangerous. Plummeting temperatures and a home without heat can be a deadly combination, especially to the oldest and youngest residents in the home. In these situations, a backup power solution can literally be a lifesaver.

Despite the fact that power outages have been taking place in the U.S. since the creation of the power grid, there’s still plenty of confusion among homeowners when it comes to their residential generator options. Whether it’s educating the public on proper use of a portable generator or instructing consumers on how to properly size for a permanent generator solution, the generator industry has its work cut out for it.

To make matters even more challenging, today’s home gobbles up electricity like never before. Also, many home also contain sensitive, high-tech appliances and electronics that can be inoperable or even damaged by “unclean” power from a generator. Fortunately, the generator manufacturers seem to have all of these bases covered. Not only are they making it easier for homeowners to choose the right emergency power solution, the solutions are keeping up with the needs of the modern home.

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Sizing Simplified

When looking into a generator purchase, one of the biggest challenges facing the curious consumer is proper sizing. “The two questions people ask are ‘How do I select a product?’ and ‘How much is it going to cost me?’” says Mike Betker, marketing manager for Briggs & Stratton, an engine manufacturing company headquartered in Milwaukee, Wis. Briggs & Stratton recently signed on to manufacturer a line of GE-branded residential standby generators. “Today’s generators can do more with less,” adds Betker. Both standby generators (also known as “permanent” generators) and portable generators are rated by their kilowatt (kW) output. To match a generator to the home’s needs, a homeowner can begin by totaling up the wattage needs of the appliances that will be powered during an outage. Special attention needs to be given to the startup wattage of bigger appliances like refrigerators, which are always going to use more than the running wattage.

To jump-start the sizing process, generator manufacturers like GE, Generac, and Kohler all feature handy sizing tools on their websites. Consumers enter the square footage of the home and check off from a list the appliances, devices or systems,such as the refrigerator, microwave, central air, and TV,that are to be powered by the generator during a power outage. To test Kohler’s Sizing Calculator, an imaginary home measuring 2,000 square feet was inputted. Among the items to be powered during an outage were the refrigerator, microwave oven, range, TV, personal computer, central air, dehumidifier, fan, security system and a few other essentials. The Calculator tallied the total wattage of the selected units as well as the start-up volt-amps and determined that the Kohler 15 kW Residential Generator would be a good fit for the fictitious home. “The selection guide walks consumers down a path,” says Betker. “You don’t have to fret the solution.”

Of course, homeowners who are still uncertain about matching a generator to the home using an online resource or prefer talking to an expert can always consult one. Some manufacturers recommend it, like Jake Thomas, product manager for Generac, who says, “The best way to choose a standby generator is to have an electrician size it.”

Sensitive New-Age Generator

Electronic items like plasma TVs, computers and the complicated controls often found in today’s HVAC systems can be sensitive to the power used to run them. When powered by grid-supplied electricity, these devices operate without an issue. But generators all produce something called harmonic distortion, which can confuse or even damage the plugged-in sensitive devices. The total harmonic distortion, or THD, of a generator will determine the potential for issues with high-end or sensitive electronics during a power outage.

“Generator power is not utility-grade power,” says Thomas. “A high THD can mean that the controller for the high-end HVAC system doesn’t recognize the power or the plasma TV has a line running through it.” The THD issue has been a hot one in the generator industry and has led to new models of generators that minimize the THD to levels that won’t negatively affect the sensitive electronic items and systems in the home. Homeowners shopping for a backup power generator should consider a generator with a THD of five or six percent or below if sensitive electronic devices are going to be powered.

Put a Lid on It

One of the necessary evils of a standby generator is the routine “exercise” mode. To ensure that the generator will provide immediate power during an outage, units are programmed to run themselves for a short amount of time on a regular schedule. While this mode provides peace of mind to the homeowner, it also means a regular interruption to the peace and quiet around the home. Generators are engines, and engines produce noise. The decibel (dB) level of a generator is another comparison point that manufacturers are addressing in newer models. Generac’s Quiet-Test® feature lowers the generator engine speed during the weekly test-run, reducing the noise to the level of an idling car. “The engine runs at two-thirds of the normal RPM,” says Thomas. “This reduces decibel levels, uses less fuel and means less emissions.”

Other solutions to the noise issue include improving the generator enclosure. “Our SoundVault® Enclosure bounces air and sound through a compartment,” says Betker, speaking to the sound attenuating characteristics of the Briggs & Stratton, GE-branded standby generators. The Enclosure, coupled with the automotive-style exhaust system and foam dampeners that are part of the Briggs & Stratton SoundShield® Technology, help reduce its GE-branded 10-45kW standby generators’ running sound level to 65dB.

To further minimize the effect that the frequent test runs have on the peace and quiet around the home, most standby generators enable the homeowner to set the time of the day that the generator will perform this function.

More for Less

“One of the biggest improvements in generators has been larger kilowatt developments,” says Dan Giampetroni, marketing manager for Kohler. “Today’s generators have more horsepower, so they can handle homes with large AC systems.” Kohler’s line of LP and natural gas-fueled standby generators range from smaller 8.5-kW systems to a whopping 125-kW system. But, as Giampetroni points out, “as the power has gone up, the prices have gone down.” Four years ago a 12-kW standby generator would have cost close to $4,400, not including the necessary transfer switch, which could have added another $1,000 or more, or installation costs. “Today an 18kW Kohler standby system has an MSRP of $4,769, which includes the transfer switch,” Giampetroni adds.

Related: The Power Outage Survival Guide

The increased affordability of the permanent generator systems could see more homeowners, especially elderly ones, considering this option over the less-convenient, less-powerful portable generators. A permanent standby generator that starts automatically during a power outage powers the home’s vital components and can be purchased for an affordable price can seem like a sensible investment for any home, but particularly for elderly homeowners who might find an interruption in power to be as much a safety and health concern as an inconvenience.

Smart Features

In addition to all the improvements in power output, sound attenuation and affordability, the modern generator is also getting a technological makeover. In today’s “smart home,” advanced controls and wiring connect the home’s subsystems (lighting, heating and cooling, security, etc.) to one another and to the Internet. The smart home can now add the generator to the list of Internet-ready devices. Some of Kohler’s newer models of standby generators have Ethernet ports to bring the generator online. According to Giampetroni, a connected generator, used in conjunction with Kohler’s OnCue Home Generator Management System software, can send an email or text message to the homeowner or installer when the generator comes on.

Homeowners away on vacation can access their generator online to run a diagnostics and check that the generator is prepared for an impending storm or outage. This kind of remote access feature adds additional assurance to homeowners that their generator will be ready to operate when needed.

Generac has also added a technological boost to their generator package. Rather than forcing the homeowner outside to check on the status of the permanent generator, Generac’s wireless remote monitor feeds real-time information from the generator to a small, battery-operated control device that can hang on the wall or be placed in some convenient location. From the device, homeowners can run a test on the generator or check to see if the unit needs maintenance.