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La Cornue’s New Built-In Rotisserie

By Rebecca Thienes Cherny | Updated May 21, 2013 9:42 PM

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La Cornue Built-In Rotisserie

La Cornue Flamberge Rotisserie in Cabinet

What’s more delicious than slow-roasted chicken on a summer day? Fans of fowl (and fish and other meats too) will be happy to learn that La Cornue has created the first UL-approved gas rotisserie—and this built-in doesn’t require a flue or special ventilation.

Read the rest of this entry »


How To: Make a Kite

By Larry Bilotti | Updated May 18, 2020 4:14 PM

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How to Make a Kite

Photo: freefoto.com

There’s nothing more fun for a child than learning to fly a kite. Who doesn’t remember the thrill of watching their first kite catch a breeze and start the long climb skyward? But you can make the activity even more fulfilling—and fun—by making one yourself. Here’s how:

MATERIALS AND TOOLS Available on Amazon
Two wood dowels or lightweight, straight sticks (one measuring 24″ and the other 20″)
Strong sheet of paper at least 26″ square (i.e. brown paper bag weight)
Tape and glue
Scissors and craft knife
Tape measure
Lightweight string, bakery twine or fishing line
Pencil or marker

How to Make a Kite

DIRECTIONS
1. Cut a notch in both ends of the short and long sticks using a craft knife. The notch should be deep enough to fit the twine. Then measure and mark the center of the 20″ stick and mark 6″ on the longer stick.

2. Make a cross using the two sticks, lining them up at the marked points. Make certain the horizontal crosspiece is at a right angle to the vertical one. Tie the sticks together by wrapping the string securely around the center points. Note: notches should all be pointing in a vertical direction.

3. Tie a small loop in the end of the string and secure it to the notch at the top of the vertical stick. Work your way around the kite, threading and securing the string through all of the notched points. In doing so, you will be creating a diamond pattern that will serve as the frame of the finished kite. Remember to keep the string taut. Repeat the process.

4. Lay the kite form on the paper and draw an outline. Remove the kite and, adding one inch to the overall pattern, cut the paper. Reposition the kite on the original outline and fold the excess over the string frame. Tape and/or glue to secure.

5. Reinforce the top and bottom tips of the kite with extra tape, then use a hole punch to create a hole in the reinforced tips. Cut a 26″ length of string and thread one end through the top hole and the other end through the bottom. Secure both ends with a knot. This vertical string serves as the kite’s bridle.

7. Now tie the end of the flying string to the bridle—about 1/3 down from the top. Attach an additional length of string to the bottom hole to fasten cloth bows and ribbons for the tail. Head outside to set your homemade kite to flight!

Want more How To? Browse all projects in 30 Days of Easy Summer DIY


How To: Make a Window Box

With a few basic, inexpensive materials and tools, you can engage your kids in some kite-making fun this summer.

By Jean Nayar | Updated Sep 7, 2018 1:16 PM

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How to Make a Window Box

Photo: sharingrace.com

A window box can add enormous curb appeal to a house and provide a garden opportunity for even city dwellers. And, they are easy to make.  Just follow this simple summer DIY tutorial to deck your sills with beautiful summer blooms this weekend.

TOOLS AND MATERIALS Available on Amazon
Tape measure
Pencil
Carpenter’s square
Handsaw or power saw
Sandpaper
Tack cloth
Power drill with 11/64inch, 1/2inch, and carbidetipped bits
Screwdriver
Hammer
Safety goggles
1×8 or 1×10 redwood or cedar stock
1×2 decorative molding (optional)
Wood glue
11/4inch brass or stainless steel flathead wood screws
Miter box and saw (optional)
6penny brass or stainless steel finishing nails
Exterior grade primer and paint
Paintbrushes
Heavyduty brackets (optional)
– 2-inch brass or stainless steel flathead screws, or 2-inch lag screws with lead masonry anchors

STEP 1
Measure the inside width of the window frame. Using a carpenters’ square, measure and mark one board to this measurement, and two boards to this measurement plus 1½ inches, then cut them with a handsaw or a power saw. For the side pieces, measure and cut two pieces of board equal to the width of the stock. Use sandpaper to smooth the cut edges, wiping off dust with a tack cloth.

How to Make a Window Box - Drilling

Photo: hgtv.com

STEP 2
Adjoin the pieces together with simple butt joints. Align the edge bottom of the front of the box along one edge of the bottom, edges flush. Mark and drill 1/16-inch holes through the face of the front board at each end and about every 4 inches all along the joint line about 3/8-inch from the edge of the board. Set the board into place, mark the screw holes on the bottom board, and drill starter holes into the board edge at the marked points. Repeat for the back and side pieces.

STEP 3
Apply glue to the front edge of the bottom board and set the front board into place, edges flush. Secure the joint with 1 1/4-inch brass or stainless steel flathead wood screws through the predrilled holes. Repeat for back and sides.

STEP 4
If desired, add strips of molding across the front and around the sides, cutting to allow for mitered corners at the ends of the front and two side strips. Glue the strips to the front and sides and hammer in penny brass or stainless steel finishing nails about 4 inches apart all around.

STEP 5
Drill a series of ½-inch-diameter weep holes every 4 inches along the center of the bottom board to prevent water logging.

STEP 6
Prime and paint the inside and outside of the box with two coats of primer and two coats of exterior grade paint, letting dry between coats.

HELPFUL TIPS

  • You can attach the window box using several different methods. One option is to drill holes into the siding or brick and use heavy-duty deck screws to attach the box directly to the area directly under the windowsill. Or you can use window box brackets or try a cleatless system, which eases water damage issues. To fasten the box to a brick or concrete-block wall, use 2-inch lag screws with lead masonry anchors. Wearing safety goggles, drill holes for the anchors with a power drill and a carbide-tipped masonry bit; insert the anchors and then drive the screws in flush with the wall surface.
  • To extend the life of the window box, add soil and plants to a window box liner rather than placing them directly into the box.

How To: Make a Sandbox

Amp up your home’s curb appeal with a flower-filled window box that you can make yourself.

By Dana Willard | Updated Mar 3, 2014 8:11 PM

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How to Make a Sandbox

Photo: danamadeit.com

With just some basic home improvement knowledge, you can build a simple backyard sandbox like this with colorful stripes, benches for sitting, holes to trickle sand through, a beach umbrella stand and lots and lots of sand.  Here’s how:

MATERIALS AND TOOLS Available on Amazon
(This is for a 6′ x 7′ rectangular sandbox design.)
Two 1’ x 2” pressure treated pine boards in 10′ to 12’ lengths (the extra wood will be used for benches)
Circular or table saw
Power drill
Hammer
Nails and/or screws
PVC pipe (to accommodate a beach umbrella for shade).
Tongue and groove, pressuretreated floorboard slats (optional)
Note: You don’t actually need a bottom on your sandbox, but without it, you risk the frame warping or pulling apart over time. A floor will add more support to the frame and help keep sand clean.  Be sure, however, to select a pressure-treated wood to guard against damp, warping, and rot over time.
Exterior paint
Sand—lot’s and lot’s of sand

DIRECTIONS
1.  Use a saw to cut four board lengths to serve as the sandbox sides; two at 7’ lengths and two at 6’.   Simply butt the ends together to create a rectangle and secure with either nails or screws.

2.  If you are adding a floor, cut pieces to size and nail or screw them into the bottom of the frame, making certain it remains square.

How to Make a Sandbox - Frame

Photo: danamadeit.com

3.  The benches are mainly for sitting and relaxing, but they also add support to the sandbox corners. Use the leftover pieces of wood and mark and measure the dimensions. Cut the angled pieces with a saw, sand if necessary, and secure to the frame.  You can drill holes in the benches for water run-off and as an added play feature.

4.  Add a short piece of PVC pipe in the corners for a simple beach umbrella stand.  To secure, drill a hole in the bottom of the sandbox so that it sits nice and snug between the bench and the corner of the frame.  Place a beach umbrella right into the pipe and you have a shady spot whenever needed!

5.  Before painting the sandbox, elevate it off the ground for a clean paint job.  Use a primer and paint the inside and outside with a durable, weather-resistant paint, like Behr Ultra exterior in satin or gloss finish. To paint stripes, like those shown top, simply use painters tape to mark equal bands of color and work in sequence (allowing each coat to dry thoroughly before tackling the next color band.)

5.  Find an appropriate location for your sandbox. Depending on your lawn, you might want to consider removing the grass underneath to provide a more level surface.  A sheet of heavy-duty plastic under the sandbox will also help reduce moisture build-up to the floor, extending the life immeasurably.

6.  Fill with sand (20-30 bags of play sand) and let the kids enjoy their new backyard addition!

How to Make a Sandbox - Frame

Photo: danamadeit.com

Author Note: The above do-it-yourself sandbox was taken from Dana Willard’s MADE website, which you can access for additional information and step-by-steps.

Want more How To? Browse all projects in 30 Days of Easy Summer DIY


How To: Build a Dry Stone Retaining Wall

Few summer DIY projects are as easy to complete—or provide as much fun—as a backyard sandbox.

By Bob Vila | Updated Jul 9, 2013 11:20 AM

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How to Build a Retaining Wall

Photo: Flickr

Depending on the size and weight of the stones used to construct the retaining wall, the tools and materials for the project will vary. Landscape fabric and a crushed stone or gravel are commonly used to create a base that allows moisture to drain. Proper drainage is essential. Water buildup can exaggerate freeze and thaw cycles, forcing the wall out of its intended shape, or worse, toppling sections altogether.

Smaller stones can be transported via wheelbarrow and moved into position by hand. Larger stones require mechanized lifting equipment. Strings, stakes, brick hammers, hammer drills, and chisels round out the remaining most-used items.

Stone Retaining Wall Construction Basics

• With a gravel base for drainage in place, heavy base stones are maneuvered into position with the help of a front-loading tractor.

• A hammer drill is used to bore holes in large stones prior to splitting them into smaller pieces. Holes are drilled 2-1/2- to 3-inches deep.

• Special wedges are placed into the holes bored in the stone and stuck with a three-pound hammer in sequence. As the wedges drive into the stone, they split the rock along the path of the holes.

• Once split, the smaller sections of stone are positioned in the wall.

• As the height of the wall rises, smaller stones able to be positioned by hand are put in place. Care is taken to stagger joints both for appearance and strength. The wall does not need to be a uniform thickness from front to back. The void not filled in with stone is backfilled with gravel and soil.

• Small stones are chinked into place to fill gaps. Each row of larger stones can be leveled using smaller stone pieces like shims.


How To: Plant a Vegetable Garden

Build a retaining wall with dry laid stone in order to establish different levels in your landscaping.

By Jennifer Noonan | Updated Feb 22, 2021 6:28 PM

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How to Plant a Vegetable Garden

Photo: dnr.wi.gov

One of the joys of summer dining is fresh, local produce. Nothing tastes better than a tomato or cucumber just off the vine. And it tastes even better if it’s from your own yard! Many feel overwhelmed by the prospect, but growing a garden doesn’t have to be complicated. It can be a wonderful learning adventure. With a little effort and patience, you can plant your own herbs and veggies to harvest all summer long.  Here’s how:

TOOLS AND MATERIALS Available on Amazon
Garden gloves
Spade and/or shovel
Wheelbarrow
Hand tiller or garden fork
Trowel
Stones or bricks for walkway (optional)
Nutrients (plant food, compost, manure)
Stakes or cages
Starter plants or seeds
Fencing (optional)
PATIENCE!

DIRECTIONS

1. Make a Plan
Measure the area where you wish to plant your vegetable garden. Most herbs and vegetables like full sun, so make sure you choose an area that gets at least 8 hours of sunlight a day. Think about the things you want to plant and do a little research to discover how much space each plant needs. (Most starter plants have a label that will tell you how tall and wide they will grow.) Make a rough sketch of your garden plot and what plants you’d like where. Then go shop!

How to Plant a Vegetable Garden - Layout

Photo: woodleywonderworks.com

2. Dig a Plot
If you plan your garden where you currently have grass, you’ll need to remove the sod. This is probably the hardest physical part of the process. Use a spade to cut through the grass into the dirt around the perimeter of your plot. Then starting in one corner, work your spade or a flat shovel under the roots of the grass and lift upward a little at a time. Remove the sod in chunks to a wheelbarrow, which you can take away later.

3. Prepare the Soil
Using a spade, hand tiller, or garden fork, work your way through the garden plot, turning and loosening the soil. If you’ve decided to add compost or other amendments, now is the time to pour it over the area and work it into the existing soil a little at a time.

Note: You may want to test your soil’s pH level before starting. You can buy a DIY kit at your local home improvement store, or ask your Local Cooperative Extension Office to do it for a small fee. Once you know the soil’s pH level, you can begin adding amendments to your soil—e.g., lime (to make it more alkaline) or peat moss (to make it more acidic)—to meet the needs of what you’re planting. Or you can just skip this step and take your chances, see how your garden grows, and make adjustments for next year. Gardening is very much about experimentation!

4. Make a Path
Once your garden is growing, you’ll need a place to step while you harvest your vegetables. Step stones, bricks, or many other materials will work. Or, you can just plan to leave a pathway unplanted, if you don’t mind getting your feet a little dirty. Just be aware that you may need to regularly move vining plants off the path and encourage them to grow in a different direction.

5. Plant seeds or starter plants
Seeds: If you’re planting seeds, first mix some compost, manure, or slow release fertilizer into the area. Then, follow the directions on your seed packets for planting depth and distance from one another. Keep in mind that some veggies, like cucumbers and beans, grow very quickly and are easy to grow from seed. Tomatoes, however, take much longer, and generally do better started indoors in the late winter months. This can help you decide where to invest your money in starter plants, and what you can get by with on cheaper seed packets.

Starter Plants: Dig a hole with your garden trowel twice as wide and deep as the root ball of the plant. Mix some compost, manure, or slow-release fertilizer into the soil around where the plant will sit. Loosen the roots without disturbing them too much and set your plant into the hole. Fill dirt in up to where the stem meets the soil the plant came in. Lightly pack the soil around the plant and water thoroughly. Repeat for all your plants. For plants that need support, like tomatoes or peppers, install stakes or cages when you plant, so roots won’t be disturbed after they’ve set in.

6. Provide protection
If you have critters around (like rabbits and deer), who you fear may use your garden as a midnight snack bar, think about investing in some type of barrier. There are lots of options, from chicken wire to picket fencing. Just remember, bunnies can get through tiny spaces, and deer like to jump, so have realistic expectations for whatever you choose.

There are also a number of lighter-duty protection options to try, like planting marigolds around the perimeter or hanging pieces of Irish Spring or Dial soap on stakes. There’s no science attached to the claims gardener’s make regarding those repellents, but the anecdotal evidence might convince you to give it a whirl.

Veggie gardening can get as involved as you like. You can add edging, fencing, trellises, irrigation, netting, and more. But you don’t have to go that far to have a successful and enjoyable experience. Each season you plant, your knowledge and intuition will grow. As for the garden: Sunlight, water, and some regular TLC will go a long way to bringing a bountiful harvest to your summer table.


How To: Make a Tire Swing

Planting a vegetable garden doesn't have to be complicated and can even be a wonderful learning adventure for the whole family.

By Leslie Grimmett | Updated Apr 27, 2021 6:19 PM

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how to make a tire swing

Photo: istockphoto.com

Sometimes the simplest things can bring the greatest summertime pleasures. Outdoor fun doesn’t have to include expensive, custom-built play sets; you can create instant outdoor entertainment by upcycling an old tire into a one-of-a-kind swing. Read on to learn how to make a tire swing the easy-peasy, old-fashioned way!

RELATED: The Best Tree Swings for Backyard Fun

How to Make a DIY Tire Swing

This project is perfect for beginners, as you only need a few tools and basic knot knowledge—oh, and you need a tree (a big tree).

STEP 1: Pick the correct tree.

Chances are, if you’re looking into how to make a DIY tire swing, you already have a tree in mind for mounting it. Just make sure that it’s large, healthy, and the branch that will hold the tire swing is at least 8 inches thick. If a tree shows signs of decay or has cracks or dead branches, it’s not suitable for a tire swing.

Other considerations include making sure there’s enough clearance between where the tire hangs and the trunk of the tree as well as the ground. And removing large rocks or other tripping hazards from the area beneath the swing.

STEP 2: Find the right size tire.

stack of tires for DIY tire swing

Photo: istockphoto.com

Any standard-size passenger car rubber tire will work for a swing, though you could use a smaller or larger tire as long as you factor the weight into your specific project. If you find a used tire, be sure it has some tread left to prevent any wires from popping through the surface and scratching or poking swing users.

STEP 3: Clean the tire.

Give the tire a thorough cleaning with a pressure washer. If you don’t have the right tool, take the tire to the car wash to clean it with one of the high-pressure hoses on the premises.

STEP 4: Drill drainage holes in the tire.

When you’re ready—that is, when you’re satisfied with the cleanliness of the tire—drill holes in the bottom of the tire to prevent water from pooling when it rains. You don’t want mosquitoes to get wind of any standing water! On that note, you’ll also want to check for bees, wasps, and other insect pests each time you or your kids use the tire swing.

RELATED: Weekend Projects—5 Fun DIY Swing Sets

STEP 5: Purchase the correct rope.

rope for tire swing

Photo: istockphoto.com

Determine the maximum weight your tire swing will hold. That includes the weight of kids (or adults) that will use it as well as the weight of the tire you choose. Then select a heavy-duty braided exterior rope that is rated for three times that weight.

STEP 6: Tie a double bowline knot.

Cut a section of rope to the desired length plus a little bit extra for tying a couple of knots. If needed, melt the ends to keep the rope from fraying. Tie a double bowline knot on one end of the rope, making sure to leave a little slack in the loop portion of the knot.

STEP 7: Hang your rope.

Toss the knot end of the rope over the tree branch. If you need a little help, place a softball in a sock and tie the sock to the knot end of the rope; then toss the ball over the branch. Thread the opposite end of the rope through the loop of the bowline knot and pull it tight. The knot will travel upwards until it finally reaches the branch.

STEP 8: Suspend the tire.

Tie another double bowline knot around the top of the tire, tightening it so the tire hangs at the desired height off of the ground.

diy tire swing how to

Photo: istockphoto.com

STEP 9: Test the tire swing.

Have the heaviest member of your family test the tire swing to ensure its strength. You may not want to tell this person why he or she was chosen…

And, enjoy!

Let your impatient kid swing already. You can cut off the excess rope later. Pat yourself on the back and admire your handiwork from the street, just like the neighbors will.

RELATED: How to Make a Tire Swing with Chains and Bolts

FAQ About DIY Tire Swings

Got questions about how to make a tire swing? You’re not alone!

How do you make a homemade tire swing?

One of our favorite DIY tire swing ideas is to find a tire, clean it thoroughly, and hang it by a rope from a sturdy tree branch.

What do I need for a DIY tire swing?

First and foremost, you need a tire. You’ll also need some tire cleaning supplies (or clean it at a self-serve car wash), braided exterior rope rated for three times the weight of the tire and swing users combined, and some basic knot knowledge. You’ll also need a sturdy branch on a large, healthy tree.

What kind of rope do you use for a tire swing?

The best rope to use for a tire swing is one that is braided, designed to hold a lot of weight, and rated to withstand outdoor elements such as UV rays, rain, etc.

Final Thoughts

Kick off your summer staycation by adding a tire swing to your outdoor space. This simple project can add hours of fun and relaxation with minimal effort and expense. Just be sure to keep safety top of mind by thoroughly inspecting the tree and branch that you intend to mount it on, and by selecting rope that is rated for the amount of weight that your specific tire swing will hold.


How to Refinish a Wood Table

Create some outdoor fun this summer—the old-fashioned way—with this easy tire swing how-to.

By Larry Bilotti and Tony Carrick | Updated Jan 24, 2022 6:28 PM

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how to refinish a wood table

istockphoto.com

Let’s face it, the easiest way to transform an old piece of furniture is to paint it. But if the piece is well constructed and made of solid wood, you might want to consider restoring it to its original condition. While stripping furniture is messy and requires a bit of muscle and stamina, the results can be stunning.

Learning how to refinish wood furniture—specifically, a wood table—is not difficult and is a task that most any DIYer can take on. Whether your project is restoring family heirlooms to full glory or refinishing end tables from the thrift store, following these steps can transform your wooden furniture so it looks its best.

Before using a furniture stripper, it’s important to read the manufacturer’s directions. These details will include safety precautions, application instructions, wait time, and clean-up instructions, which are all important things to understand when working with a chemical solvent.

Finally, be sure to remove hardware or cover exposed metal with painter’s tape before undertaking these steps for how to refinish a wood table. Covering or removing metal pieces will prevent them from being damaged by the paint stripper.

STEP 1: Clean the furniture.

The first step in how to refinish a table begins with cleaning. Clean the table with a mild soap-and-water solution to remove oil and dirt that can inhibit the stripper from doing its job.

how to refinish a wood table

istockphoto.com

STEP 2: Fill holes with wood filler.

Identify any damage on the table and use wood filler to fill holes. Use wood filler that is stainable so the fixed area blends in with the table surface after you refinish it.

Squeeze the liquid filler into the hole then use the tip of a flat head screwdriver to push it inside. Allow the wood filler to mound outside of the hole to allow for shrinkage as it dries.

STEP 3: Apply the paint stripper.

Use a paint brush to apply an even coat of paint stripper to the wood surface. Let the stripper do its work—generally it will take about 15 to 20 minutes for the solvent to loosen the finish. Don’t rush the project, and don’t ignore the clock. If the stripper becomes too dry, it will be harder to remove.

STEP 4: Use a plastic scraper to remove the finish.

After the specified amount of time, use a plastic scraper or putty knife to begin removing the finish. A plastic tool is recommended, because a metal one could potentially scratch the wood surface.

Try to remove as much of the finish as you can, but don’t fight it. If some of the finish is more resistant, or you are removing multiple coats of paint or varnish, simply repeat the process of applying stripper, waiting, and scraping until the entire finish is removed.

STEP 5: Sand the grain.

After the finish is removed, dab a pad of Grade #000 fine steel wool in the paint stripper and rub the wood in the direction of the grain. This will remove any residual finish.

Next, using fine-grade sandpaper, lightly sand the surface in the direction of the grain. This will help even out any surface discolorations or irregularities.

how to refinish a wood table

istockphoto.com

STEP 6: Apply the stain.

The goal in applying stain is to produce an even coat and, depending on how dark you want the table, removing any excess stain in a timely fashion. The wood has been stripped and sanded and will absorb stain easily. After brushing on the stain, use a piece of cheesecloth to remove the excess—and do so quickly or you’ll have dark, blotchy spots on your table.

If you prefer that your table have a darker finish, repeat the process again until the desired shade is achieved.

STEP 7: Apply a protective clear-coat finish.

Once the table has been completely stained, it’s time to protect the wood with either a polyurethane, wax, or tung oil.

Although polyurethane is a popular modern-day finish for almost everything and protects wood very well, there is something wonderful and traditional about a paste wax finish. Wax will add a warmth to the finish and protect the wood from most water damage, especially if it is reapplied on a regular basis.

how to refinish a wood table

istockphoto.com

Final Thoughts

While refinishing a table is not a complicated DIY project, completing each ‘how to refinish a wood table’ step is crucial to attaining a high-quality and long-lasting finish. Giving the stripper enough time to work before removing an old coating, properly preparing the table with a thorough sanding, and applying the stain using the appropriate applicator are all crucial to achieving the best results with a wood refinishing project.

FAQs About How to Refinish a Wood Table

The steps to refinishing wood furniture is straightforward, but every project can have some nuisance that brings up new questions. Below are answers to some of the most popular questions about how to refinish a wood table.

Q: I don’t want to use paint stripper for my project. How do you go about restoring wood furniture without stripping it first?

If you want to know how to refinish a table without sanding or stripping, it’s possible to skip the stripping and sanding if you use a gel stain. After cleaning and repairing the furniture, apply gel stain directly to the old finish using a soft cloth. While gel stain won’t hide water stains or major defects, it will help hide scratches and refresh areas where the old stain has worn away.

Q: Can you restain a table without sanding it first? 

The key to how to restain wood without sanding involves using gel stain. Gel stain does an excellent job of adhering to the old unsanded finish while refreshing its appearance.

Q: Can you stain already-stained wood?

You can stain over existing stains as long as you follow a few guidelines. First and foremost, the stained wood must be raw. This means the wood cannot have a clear coat finish on it such as polyurethane, wax or varnish. Also, you can only apply a darker stain over a lighter stain.


The Importance of Pop-Up Drain Emitters

While painting a wood table in need of a refresh is always an option, refinishing the surface will bring out its natural beauty and character. Here's how to make your table look new again.

By Jennifer Noonan and Bob Vila | Updated Sep 22, 2020 3:49 PM

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Pop-Up Drain Emitters

Photo: wbtv.com

I’ve said many times that the most important decisions we made in the construction of our home were around the things you never see: the blown-in insulation, the PEX plumbing, the argon gas between the panes of our high-efficiency windows, and so on.

We thought about and planned for a lot of things like that during the pre-construction phase of our home-building adventure. And of course, there were things we missed. One of the most important: pop-up drain emitters.

Pop Up Drain System

Photo: ndspro.com

Drainage Basics

Most standard drainage systems have a downspout that catches water from the gutters on the roof and deposits it some small distance (around 1 – 3 feet) away from the house’s foundation. With soil that drains well and proper grading, this can work okay. Which is what we thought would happen for us. But it didn’t.

With each rainstorm we watched water quickly wash away the dirt and mulch in the planting beds in front of our house. The soil around our foundation even began to erode. I’m no home-building expert, but I knew right away this was not a good situation.

What Is a Pop-Up Drain Emitter?

So, what is a pop-up drain? It’s a drain system that more efficiently carries water away from a house’s foundation than a standard downspout does. (View example on Amazon.) A flexible hose is attached to the downspout, which is then run through a trench to a simple emitter that “pops up” once the water pressure builds enough, allowing it to disperse over a larger surface area, so it doesn’t cause damage or erosion.

Do I Need a Pop-Up Drain Emitter?

We worked with the service department of our builder to have pop-up drains installed, and we’ve seen an immense difference. Our mulch is staying where it should, and our plants are beginning to recover. Most importantly, our foundation is staying protected.

Think about installing pop-up drains if:

  • Your soil doesn’t drain well.
  • You have grading issues that impede the flow of water away from the house.
  • Your gutter design drains too much water into one area.

If there’s any chance you might have drainage problems, invest in pop-up drains or if necessary, something more robust like French drains. It is worth the time, effort, and money. The foundation of your house is perhaps the most important thing you should never see. And with proper drainage, you won’t.


How To: Replace an Outdoor Wall Sconce

A pop-up drain emitter is part of a system that more efficiently carries water away from a house’s foundation than a standard downspout.

By Larry Bilotti | Updated May 3, 2014 6:28 PM

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How to Install a Sconce

Photo: heartsandhome.com

Updating the entrance to your home is a relatively easy thing to do. Add a pop of color by painting the front door in a fresh coat of gloss paint or strip it down to the natural wood. Consider container gardens or shutters to provide additional interest and color. And replace outdated exterior wall lanterns with more stylish models. If you are looking to do the latter, here’s all you need:

MATERIALS AND TOOLS Available on Amazon
New exterior wall light fixture
Wire nuts (if they are not included)
Multihead screwdriver
Pliers
Lightbulb
Electrical tape (optional)

DIRECTIONS
1. Turn off the power. You will need to go to the main circuit breaker of the house to shut off the power to the existing light fixture. Don’t think that having the light switch on “off” is a sure-fire way to cut the power entirely. It’s not!

How to Install a Sconce - Wiring

Photo: theprojectspot.blogspot.com

2. Remove the old fixture. The existing fixture will be attached to the wall with either a mounting cover plate or exposed screws. If the former, lift the plate off to reveal the mounting screws. Loosen and remove the screws while holding the fixture in place until you disconnect the wires.

3. The mounting bracket. Chances are the old light fixture was affixed to the wall with a crossbar mounting bracket. You should replace it with the mounting hardware packaged with the new fixture, as it was designed specifically for that lamp. Depending on the style of lantern, the crossbar is a 4-inch circle of metal with several holes cut in it, a 4-inch by 1-inch metal plate with several holes or two 4-inch by 1-inch metal plates connected in the center to form a cross. Use a level to make certain that the crossbar is level.

4. Wiring 101. Connect the wires according to the manufacturer’s instructions: white (neutral) to white, black (hot) to black, and green (ground) wire to the bare copper wire from the junction box. Use plastic wire screws to keep wire connections secure. (You can also choose to secure connections with electrical tape.) Pack all the wires back inside the outlet box, making certain not to loosen connections.

5. Installing the new lantern. Attach the lantern to the crossbar with the mounting screws provided, or position it onto the protruding screws and affix the hex nuts packaged with the lamp. Secure tightly. Depending on the contour of the wall siding, you may need to put a bead of clear caulking along the top and sides to prevent water from seeping behind the fixture. (Another option is a foam mounting block cut to fit the contour of the siding.)

6. Power on. Turn the power back on at the circuit breaker and test out your new fixture.

For more on outdoor wall sconces, check out our slideshow: Outdoor Wall Sconces: Lighting the Way With Style

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