Category: Bathroom

How To: Remove a Tub Drain

If your tub drain just isn't doing its job, you may need to take it out to clean or replace it. Rest assured that in just a few simple steps you'll have the drain out and be on your way to resolving your tub trouble.

How to Remove a Tub Drain

Photo: Zillow Digs home in Los Angeles, CA

It’s unfortunate but true: Over time tub drains clog and sometimes even corrode. After all, your bathtub is put to the test every day as you and the other members of your household bathe, forcing all sorts of body care products—and copious amounts of human hair—through the drain and into the pipes beyond. The day may come when your drain ceases to function. When that happens, you’ll probably need to remove the drain for inspection, followed by either a careful cleaning or a complete replacement. The removal process isn’t particularly difficult or time-consuming, taking anywhere from a few minutes to a couple of hours from start to finish, depending on the type of drain you’re dealing with. Yet, as with all things DIY, a few simple instructions will help the task go more smoothly.

While bathtub drains vary by type, they can be sorted into two broad categories: simple drains (including foot lock, roller ball, and lift-and-turn types) and drains with a trip lever (such as pop-up and plunger drains). Instructions for removing both types appear below. Just find your drain style, and follow the step-by-step to remove it yourself.


Type #1: Simple Drains (Foot Lock, Roller Ball, and Lift-and-Turn)

- Rubber gloves
- Screwdriver
- Wrench
- Vinegar
- Baking soda
- Mild cleanser (optional)
- Blow dryer (optional)
- Drain key or smart dumbbell (if you’re e moving the entire drain, including the flange)

Before you disassemble your tub drain, it’s important to note its condition. Excessive amounts of rust, mildew, or decay may indicate a larger problem, in which case professional assistance may be needed. Otherwise, if the drain is in good shape, pull on a pair of rubber gloves and continue on your mission.

• For a foot lock or roller ball plug, simply rotate it counterclockwise until it separates completely from the drain shaft.

• In the case of a lift-and-turn drain, lift the plug and free it by loosening the setscrew underneath. If you find that the setscrew on your lift-and-turn drain is stuck, a series of light-to-medium taps may help to loosen it. Use your wrench or screwdriver to nudge it into motion if necessary, but be careful not to use too much force, which could damage the drain.

Once the drain basket is fully exposed, use a mild cleanser or a mixture of one part vinegar and one part baking soda to wash it off. Also clean the plug or stopper if you’re planning to reinsert it rather than replace it.

Now, fill the tub with an inch or so of water and watch it drain. If the water still drains too slowly, move on to a stronger drain cleaner (one that specifies that it’s suitable for tubs) or turn to a tried-and-true DIY drain cleaner that uses materials you already have on hand. Fill the tub again with about an inch of water, and watch it drain. Repeat as necessary until the tub empties at a reasonable rate, then proceed to reinstall or replace the part(s) you’ve removed.

If you’re removing the entire drain apparatus, including the basket (also known as the flange), insert your drain key or smart dumbbell into the opening. Turn it counterclockwise and continue turning until the drain flange is released, then remove the flange while it’s still attached to the drain key.

Tip: If the flange is stuck, use a hair dryer to heat it up and loosen the putty, then try again.

Once the drain flange has been removed, be sure to clear out any old putty residue from the base of the opening before replacing the flange or installing a new one.


Type #2: Drains with Trip Levers (Pop-Up and Plunger)

- Rubber gloves
- Screwdriver
- Wrench
- Drain key or smart dumbbell (if removing the entire drain, including the flange)
- Blow dryer (optional)
- Vinegar and baking soda, or mild cleanser (optional)

Before you begin, check the drain for excessive rust, mildew, or decay, which may indicate a larger problem that may require the services of a professional. If the drain looks to be in good shape, it’s probably fine to proceed.

• If your drain has a visible stopper, then set the lever to the open position and use a screwdriver to remove the trip lever faceplate as well as the lever and linkage.

• If your drain has a trip lever without a visible stopper, use a screwdriver to remove the screws on the trip lever faceplate and move it away from the tub wall; the attached plunger should come out along with it.

Once the drain has been disassembled, use a mild cleanser or a mixture of one part vinegar and one part baking soda to wash it off. Also clean the plug or stopper if you’re planning to reinsert it rather than replace it.

Now, fill the tub with approximately one inch of water and watch it drain. If the tub still drains slowly, try your luck with a stronger, tub-specific commercial drain cleaner or a homemade cleaner and repeat the drain test.

When the tub again drains properly, reinstall the cleaned drain parts or replace them with new ones. If you choose to remove the entire drain apparatus, including the flange, use a drain key or smart dumbbell as described in Steps 3 and 4 above.


Although a number of DIY plumbing projects fall outside of most homeowners’ comfort zones, removing a tub drain is a relatively accessible task. The best rule of thumb when you’re tackling any new plumbing job is to proceed with an abundance of caution and remember that if complications arise, a professional plumber is just a quick phone call away.

How To: Clean a Jetted Tub

Don't let your relaxing soak in your whirlpool tub be cut short by unsightly debris floating in the water! Use these steps to get both tub and jets squeaky clean so you can again relax in your crystal-clear oasis without fear of filth.

How to Clean a Jetted Tub


Let’s be honest here: No matter the touted health benefits of its massaging hydrotherapy, a jetted tub can be only as restorative and relaxing as it is clean and sanitary. Therefore, in order to enjoy the soothing effects of a whirlpool bath, you need to get your hands dirty now and again. True, it doesn’t take hours of punishing labor to clean a jetted tub, but it’s not a quick and easy process either. After all, cleaning even a regular tub takes some time, so it stands to reason that with its many components and hard-to-reach crevices, it’d be even more work to clean a jetted tub. Fortunately, the joy of having such a calming respite from a stressful world makes the cleaning well worth the effort. Keep reading now for a step-by-step tutorial on how to clean a jetted tub with a minimum of hassle. Before you begin, though, note that while the process below provides a useful guideline, you should always follow the care and cleaning instructions provided by the manufacturer of your specific tub model.

- Baking soda
- Vinegar
- Dishwashing powder or liquid (optional)
- Bleach (optional)
- Measuring cup
- Soft cloth
- Toothbrush
- Bucket
- Dental floss (optional)

How to Clean a Jetted Tub - Modern Bath Detail


Start by flushing the accumulated gunk and worrisome bacteria out of the internal tub plumbing. To begin, wipe up any hair or other debris from the basin or rim, then fill the tub until water stands at least a couple of inches above the jets. (If it’s been a while since you last cleaned the tub, it’s best to fill it with hot water.) Once the tub is full, you have a few options in cleaning agents (as always, first consult the manufacturer’s instructions). Option one is to add about two cups of vinegar into the water. Because it’s acidic, vinegar dissolves buildup effectively but unlike many commercial cleaning products, it does so without damaging tub components. As an alternative, try 1/2 cup of bleach along with a few teaspoons of powdered or liquid dishwashing detergent. (Some manufacturers do not recommend bleach, which can dry out the gaskets over time.) Or you can purchase one of the many commercial products formulated specifically for cleaning jetted tubs, following the instructions on the packaging.

Now it’s time to activate the jets, but before you turn them on, turn off the air-induction valves (unless the manufacturer of your tub specifically recommends leaving them open). Closing the induction valves forces water to circulate only through the internal plumbing of the tub. This concentrates the flow, resulting in a deeper cleaning. With the valves closed (or not), run the jets on high for 10 or 15 minutes, or until debris from the internal plumbing stops washing into the water in the tub.

Drain the water from the tub. Now, after coming to terms with the disgust you feel over the amount of filth that’s probably lining the tub basin at this point, fill it up again with warm water a few inches above the jets. Run the tub on high once more for another 10 to 15 minutes in order to flush out even more gunk. Drain the water.

OK, it’s time for some good, old-fashioned scrubbing (regrettably, no one has figured out how to clean a jetted tub in a completely hands-off, no-effort way.) Grab a soft cloth and some baking soda; the latter works great to break up mold, mildew, and soap scum. Sprinkle a generous amount of baking soda inside the tub, let it sit for several minutes, and then use the soft, dampened cloth to scrub away the grime. Conveniently, you can also use the baking soda on the faucet and drain too. Try not to scrub too vigorously as you go along. Most whirlpool tubs are made of acrylic, a material that can be scratched or gouged, not easily, but sometimes, if you’re not careful.

You’ve come a long way, but there’s still one last thing to do—that is, address the muck and bacteria that may be lodged in and around the water jets. With a toothbrush that you use only for cleaning, gently scrub the jet nozzles and the contoured trim around those nozzles. If you can see buildup on a nozzle but can’t reach it with the toothbrush, try to dislodge it with a length of dental floss. Also, remember to clean the air-intake cover by unscrewing it, giving it a soapy brushing, rinsing it off, and screwing it back into position. Finally, give the tub a thorough rinsing.

At last, you’re finished! Reward yourself with a leisurely soak, because hey, you deserve it. But remember: If you want to get the most out of your jetted tub, a once-in-a-blue-moon cleaning isn’t enough. Routine maintenance is key. If your tub is used only occasionally, you may be able to get by with cleaning it four times a year. But if you enjoy frequent whirlpool baths, follow the procedure described above at least once a month. Now that you know how to clean a jetted tub, you can expect the process to go much more speedily the next time.

3 Fixes for Hard Water Stains

These quick and clever cleaning techniques can banish hard water stains with a few special ingredients and almost no elbow grease.

Remove Hard Water Stains


Shiny new faucets, showers, and toilets add as much polish and sophistication to the bathroom as they do utility. But if your home has hard water, these bathroom essentials are at risk of accumulating unsightly stains from mineral deposits and soap scum. The natural buildup of alkaline deposits in hard water makes it difficult to completely prevent these spots from appearing, but you can wipe them clean with these simple, nontoxic approaches that utilize common pantry items.



Remove Hard Water Stains - Sink


While many homeowners turn to store-bought products to break up the crusty limescale that often plagues chrome faucets, you can harness the same buildup-busting properties with a few everyday equivalents. The next time you’re trying to perk up your chrome, first make a beeline for the kitchen to collect a lemon, a bottle of white vinegar, and a roll of paper towels. Rub the rind of the lemon over the faucet, then soak the paper towels in vinegar and drape them directly over the coating of lemon. Let the combined acids in this cleaning duo work for about an hour to attack and loosen the mineral deposits on the fixture. Remove and discard the paper towels, rinse away any residual gunk from the faucet, and wipe the chrome clean with a soft cloth to restore its shine.



Remove Hard Water Stains - Shower

Photo: via chewy87100

Good for more than simply washing down a delicious meal, the alcohol and acidity of white wine can also help to wash away hard water residue in the shower. Prepare to work wonders on your bathroom by filling an empty spray bottle with leftover vino—one glass’s worth should do the trick. Then, generously spritz the wine over the shower head, floor, faucet, drain, doors, and tile, including any grout and caulk. Give the wine about 5 to 10 minutes to disintegrate the stubborn scum; this will save you the time and effort of scrubbing it manually. Wipe the shower clean with a nonabrasive cloth, and finish with a quick rinse to send loose debris down the drain and out of sight.



Remove Hard Water Stains - Toilet


The same tingle-inducing, frothy concoction you unleash when you crack open a can of pop can clear tough water stains in your toilet. The secret to soda’s cleaning success is its carbon dioxide, which makes it both more acidic and more effective than scrubbing with plain water. Applying this technique is almost as simple as enjoying a can of Coke: Simply pop open the tab and pour the contents around the bowl wherever the stains are set. To help the soda dislodge and dissolve any buildup, leave it in the bowl for least an hour (feel free to reward yourself with a bubbly beverage in the meantime). Then, give the bowl a quick swipe with a brush, and flush to send stains—and your worries—down the toilet!

The Dos and Don’ts of Tiling a Small Bathroom

There are a number of design and installation considerations when incorporating tiles into your small bathroom. Sidestep costly mistakes with these best practices, and, in turn, you'll find your bath looking more attractive and spacious.

Tiling a Small Bathroom

Photo: Zillow Digs home in Phoenix, AZ

Thanks to the abundance of design and colors on the market today, choosing tiles that can visually expand a small space is easier than ever. Whether you select mosaics, large tiles, or a combination of sizes, keep in mind tile installation is usually permanent and can be costly in terms of both materials and labor. Choosing the correct tile for your small bathroom requires careful planning. As projects go, tiling a small bath isn’t exactly a quick and easy task, but if you are patient and diligent it can be a very rewarding experience. Before you invest in any materials, consider the following guidelines to help avoid an expensive mistake.


Accurate measurements are a crucial first step in any tile project, but especially in the likely awkward layout that is your cramped bathroom. Any mistakes here can lead to conspicuous design problems. When calculating the amount of tile needed for floors or walls, multiply the length of the area you are covering by the width to find the square footage. Then you’ll want to add extra footage for waste. The exact amount of waste will depend on your tile size and the configuration, but 15 percent (up to 20 percent, in cases where the space has lots of corners or a diagonal layout) of the calculated square footage is a safe bet. Double-check your numbers before ordering.


Tiling a Small Bathroom - Mosaic Tile in a Small Shower

Photo: Zillow Digs home in Seattle, WA


Why invest in so much tile as part of the waste factor? Remember: Running out of materials on any job can be very frustrating. Having to stop mid-job to regroup is bad enough, but—in an even worse case scenario—you might find that the store is out of your particular tiles. Ordering tiles 15 to 20 percent more than you expect to use will help ensure against miscalculations, breakages, and cutting odd sizes to fit the space. It’s also a good idea to have spare tiles in reserve should any tiles become cracked or damaged in the future. Check to see if your retailer will allow refunds for unused tiles or unopened boxes, or start dreaming up projects to make with the spares.



In addition to injecting your bathroom with the look and feel of a professional spa, covering your space in mosaic tiles also visually expand limited square footage in the bathroom. One-inch tiles on walls, floors, shower enclosures, and even ceilings fool the brain into thinking the space is larger just because there are so many round or square tiles lined up. When choosing mosaic tile from the wide variety of colors and styles on the market, consider glass. Glass mosaics will reflect light around the walls and ceiling, which in turn creates the illusion of a deeper, wider, and overall larger room.


Tiling a Small Bathroom - Floor Pattern

Photo: Zillow Digs home in Brooklyn, NY


We don’t mean to suggest that you can’t fit large tiles into the scheme of your small bath. Quite the contrary! Just like small, 1-inch tiles, large tiles can actually make the small space appear larger. Here’s how it works: Our brain associates big tiles with a large space, so seeing them in a smaller setting tricks us it into thinking the room is larger than we know it to be. If you’re ready to adopt an extra-large tile treatment on your floors, consider, for additional impact, continuing them up the walls to the height of a chair rail.



Tiling with several colors and bold patterns in a small bathroom can overwhelm the space and make it seem even more cramped than its actual size. Choosing a single light color for the floors and walls, however, makes the tiny room appear more spacious. If you prefer variety, select soft-hued colors that are a few shades lighter or darker than each other and consider smaller-scale design to keep with the size of the room.



Be sure that the surface on which you are working is clean, smooth, and solid. Otherwise, soft floors cause tiles to crack or loosen and uneven walls allow moisture to get behind tiles causing them to loosen and fall off—not exactly what you want to see soon after completing a labor-intensive project. In addition to leveling any uneven surface, also be sure to always remove wallpaper from walls and sand the surface before applying tiles.



Here’s another optical illusion that can work in your favor: Tiles set in a diagonal pattern across the floor can help a small bathroom be perceived as larger than its actual size. This layout places emphasis on the length and width simultaneously. Intrigued? Just know that diagonal tile patterns require more planning, precise measuring, and cutting—especially around the perimeter of the room. Before starting, you’ll use graph paper to lay out a scaled diagram of your floor. After measuring, marking the floor, and cutting the tiles, installation is fairly straightforward.



While glossy tiles and polished stone can look very luxurious in a bathroom, skip these materials for flooring. The sheen of these surfaces are slick to the touch—add a splash of water outside the tub or excess soap in the bottom of your shower, and they can be downright slippery. Fortunately for you, tiles are rated according to their slip resistance so that you know exactly what belongs where in order to minimize risk of falls. Check with your retailer before buying to make sure your choice is suited to the purpose.

How To: Make Your Own Grout Cleaner

Nothing ruins the impact of an otherwise clean bathroom or kitchen quite like dirt between the tiles. This recipe for homemade grout cleaner will have your floors sparkling in no time.

Homemade Grout Cleaner


No matter how hard you work to keep your kitchen and bathroom clean, they’ll always look dingy if they’re plagued by dirty grout, whether it’s lurking between tiles in the shower or along your backsplash. But before you spend a small fortune on cleaning products, consider this: You can mix up your own homemade grout cleaner, less toxic and less expensive than the store-bought variety, using just a handful of ingredients that may already be sitting beneath your kitchen sink. To get started, you’ll need to put on some protective gloves—but after that, this cleanser takes just under 10 minutes to make. Here’s our handy how-to, which will help you make all the grout in your house look brand-new!

- Protective gloves
- Baking soda
- Hydrogen peroxide
- Liquid dish soap
- Small squeeze-top container
- Sponge

Homemade Grout Cleaner - How to Clean Bathroom Grout


It’s a good idea to don some protective gear before you gather the materials to make your homemade grout cleaner. Remember to be extra cautious when you’re working with hydrogen peroxide. Pull on your rubber gloves before you get to work. (While hydrogen peroxide is generally safe for topical use, it can sting if it gets in any cuts.) Also, be sure not to splash any in your eyes—rinse immediately if you do.

Unscrew the lid of a small squeeze-top container. (This bottle from Amazon is one good option.) Pour 1/2 cup of baking soda into the bottle, then mix in 1/4 cup of hydrogen peroxide. The baking soda will help remove tough stains and hard water buildup, while the hydrogen peroxide will clean and brighten, cutting through residue on the grout to remove discolorations.

Add 1 teaspoon of liquid dish soap, then replace the lid and shake the mixture to make sure the ingredients in your homemade grout cleaner are well combined.

Use the squeeze-top bottle to apply the homemade grout cleaner in a fine line to any areas in need of a good scrub. Let the mixture sit on the grout for about five minutes so it can really work its way into the stain, then wipe the mixture off with a sponge or paper towel. Rinse with water to remove any residue. If stains remain, repeat as needed until the grout is clean.


As wonderful as it is to see your grout clean again, wouldn’t it have been better if there had been no stains to deal with in the first place? In the future, make housework even easier by regularly cleaning and maintaining your grout before it gets out of control. Here are a few simple methods for keeping dirt and grime at bay:
• Prevent discoloration by sealing your grout once a year. Sealant creates a barrier that protects against unsightly stains and dirt buildup, so you won’t have to break out your homemade grout cleaner. (Here’s a handy how-to.)
• Regularly vacuum grouted tile floors. Your machine can pick up excess dirt before you break out the mop and specialized cleaners so that you’re not just pushing it around.
• Mop tile floors once a week with water and suds, but go easy on the detergent! Use too much and the residue left behind will attract more dirt after the floor dries.

3 Fixes for Bathroom Odor

For a breath of fresh air in the bathroom, DIY one of these three all-natural solutions and replace unappealing odors with a clean-smelling scent.

DIY Air Freshener


Bathroom odors rank as some of the most unpleasant household scents you can encounter, and they are definitely not ones you want to let linger. While sprays and store-bought products can be effective in banishing bad smells, they can also be costly and filled with chemicals you may not care to bring into your home. Instead of spritzing the off-the-shelf stuff, try mixing up one of these natural (and practically free!) air fresheners that absorb odors and leave your bathroom smelling exactly as you like it—fresh and clean.



DIY Air Freshener - Potpourri


If you recently received a lovely bouquet of flowers, don’t toss them when they’ve reached their brittle end. Instead, use the petals as the main ingredient in this DIY potpourri recipe. First, thoroughly dry the arrangement by tying a piece of twine around the stems and hanging it upside down for a week or two. After that, pluck the blooms from their stems and place them in a jar with a few drops of essential oil. Seal the container, and let the flowers absorb the oil for another week. Once they’ve had time to soak up the scent, you can mix in lavender, cloves, or other herbs or spices that pack a good-smelling punch. Display the concoction in a shallow decorative bowl in the bathroom for a pretty way to eliminate not-so-pretty odors.



DIY Air Freshener - DIY Diffuser


The next time you’re worried about persistent bathroom stench, try this five-minute fix that requires only a handful of materials—most of which you probably already have on hand. To start, fill a vase one-quarter of the way with the essential oil of your choice, such as peppermint or lavender, and then fill the rest of the vessel with baby oil. Next, rifle through your kitchen drawers for some bamboo skewers (yes, the kind you typically use for summer shish kabobs), trim the pointy ends, and drop them into the jar. The final step? Breathe deep and enjoy a freshly scented space.



DIY Air Freshener - Baking Soda


You’ll need a mason jar for this deodorizing solution, but rest assured that you can find the rest of the supplies in your cupboard. Fill a small mason jar about one-quarter of the way with baking soda, then add 8 to 12 drops of essential oil to the powder, adjusting the amount according to the size of your bathroom. (You should be able to notice the scent when you’ve added enough.) Next, pop the mason jar’s flat lid out of the ring that seals it tight and trace its outline onto a decorative piece of cardstock. Cut out the paper and use a needle to punch small holes through which the scent can disperse. Finally, place the paper circle inside the ring (in lieu of the metal lid) and seal your jar for a colorful finishing touch. The secret to this trick’s success lies in the hardworking ingredients: baking soda absorbs unwanted smells, while the oil gives off a soothing scent, leaving your bathroom free and clear of unappealing odors.

How To: Install a Toilet Seat

This simple upgrade can make a marked improvement in your bathroom's appearance. If your toilet seat is cracked, dinged, or worn out, it may just be time for a (quick) change!

How to Install a Toilet Seat


Sure, there are plenty of intimidatingly complex bathroom repairs for which you would be wise to hire a plumber. This is not one of those. Virtually anyone can install a new toilet seat. Really, it’s only slightly more involved than swapping a new roll into the toilet paper holder. So, regardless of the reason for a new seat, whether the old one has cracked or you’re simply in need of a change, you can move forward confidently on this project, which should take no more than half an hour.

- Replacement toilet seat
- Tape measure
- Screwdriver
- Pliers
- Lubricating oil (optional)
- 1/2-inch socket wrench (optional)

How to Install a Toilet Seat - Upright Isolated


Remember that although they often look the same, toilet seats come in a variety of sizes. For that reason, before you purchase a replacement, be sure to measure your existing toilet seat. It simplifies things that these days, toilets come in a set of standard sizes and their accessories (seats included) are made to fit. Still, in the interest of avoiding a return trip to the home center, take three measurements—the length of the seat, the width of the seat, and the distance between the bolts that secure the seat to the toilet. Note that on some toilet seats, the bolts are hidden by plastic covers that snap off to reveal the fasteners beneath.

Removing the old seat may be the trickiest part of the job. Much depends on the nature of the nuts and bolts that keep the seat in place. If either or both are plastic, then you’ll probably have no problem. With pliers, hold the nuts on the underside of the toilet tank in place while you unscrew the bolts with a screwdriver. If the nuts and bolts are metal, particularly if the toilet seat hasn’t been replaced in years, corrosion may stand in your way. Here, it often helps to apply lubricating oil (WD-40, for instance) to the nut. Wait about 15 minutes, then use pliers—or, for extra punch, a 1/2-inch socket wrench—to take off the nut.

Having removed the old toilet seat, take the opportunity to clean in and around the bolt holes. Next, place the new seat on the toilet, threading the bolts through the freshly cleaned holes. With one hand preventing the bolt from budging, use the other to finger-tighten the nut underneath. Finally, gently screw in the bolt as you hold the nut steady with pliers. Take care not to over-tighten the bolt; doing so runs the risk of damaging your toilet. Put the plastic covers, if any, over the bolts, and before you call it a day, raise and lower the seat a few times to test for looseness. Tighten if necessary.

If only every home improvement offered such an outsize reward for so little effort! Though we seldom acknowledge it, the toilet seat—first and foremost a practical component—actually goes a long way toward influencing the appearance of a bathroom, especially one with a small footprint. Does your bathroom look better with the new toilet seat in place? Thought so.

How To: Snake a Drain

Learn how to clear a clog yourself—no plumber required—using a drain auger (a.k.a. the "plumber's snake").

How to Snake a Drain


If it looks like a snake and moves like a snake, it probably is a snake, right? Or, perhaps, its toolbox doppelgänger, the drain auger. Called a plumber’s snake, this handy tool’s 1/4-inch metal coil breaks up blockages in toilet, sink, and bathtub drains. The next time your plunger won’t clear that clog, wait to call a pro and try to snake it out yourself using the following steps, instead.

- Drain auger (manual or electric)
- Rubber gloves
- Protective goggles
- Bucket
- Paper towels

How to Snake a Drain - Tub Upright


You’ll first need to get hold of a plumber’s snake, either manual or electric. Some manual models do allow you to attach an electric drill to give the tool more power to push through and break up the clog.

At your home improvement store, drain augers cost anywhere from a few dollars for a flimsy plastic model meant to pull out a hair clog to $25 for a longer, sturdier metal coil, or more for an electric model. Think of it this way: While you might spend upwards of $100 on a service call, you could put that money—even just a portion of it—toward buying your own snake for this and all future DIY plumbing work. If you don’t want to buy, you may be able to borrow one from a neighbor or rent a snake from your local home improvement center for a nominal fee.

Before you begin, put on a pair of rubber gloves and goggles (especially if you had tried a chemical drain cleaner earlier on), and have a bucket on hand. Then, insert the snake into the drain and slowly feed the line down the pipe. It may take a few tries to get it going. Once it’s in a few inches, gently crank the handle, causing the auger to descend down the drain.

As it descends, a tight bend in the pipe may require you to crank the handle a little harder or wiggle the wire, but don’t give up—keep turning. At some point the snake will reach the blockage. When it does, the rotating tip will either break it up as it moves down the pipe or grab hold of the gunk so that you can pull it out. If the stoppage is a solid mass, the auger head will pierce through the obstruction and resist turning. Crank a few more times so that your snake has a good hold on the clog, give the wire a wiggle to help loosen it, and get ready to remove.

When you can’t feed the coil any more, simply turn the handle to wind the snake back out of the drain. Chances are the clog will come out with it, either in pieces or as a solid chunk. Detach the debris from your snake and test to see if your pipes are clog-free by running the water or flushing the toilet. If necessary, start from the top and repeat the process.


Going forward, save yourself some hassle by using the following tips to keep your pipes clear:

• In the kitchen, when you’re using your garbage disposal, always run cold (not hot) water to flush debris from the sink drains. After you’ve turned the disposal off, keep the water running for at least 30 seconds to rinse the pipes.

In bathtub drains, once a week remove the overflow plate and raise the pop-up assembly so you can reach the spring or rocker arm to clear away any obstructions.

In the shower, once a week or as needed remove the drain cover and use a bent wire to clear out any built-up soap and hair clogs.

Last but not least, don’t treat your drain like a garbage can! Your garbage disposal, sinks, and toilet drains aren’t meant to be a dumping ground for debris. To keep backups at bay, never put any of the following common clog culprits down your pipes: grease, fats, coffee grounds, gum, pasta, rice, eggshells, baby wipes, napkins, feminine hygiene products, hair, cat litter, dental floss, bandages, or building materials like plaster and similar compounds.

How To: Seal Grout

Make it easier to keep your bathroom sparkling by following these simple steps to seal your grout.

How to Seal Grout - Backsplash Tile


Even if you keep your bathroom tiles clean, dirty grout lines can really detract from the look of your tiled floors and walls. Because cement-based grout, whether sanded or not, is porous by nature, substances like oil, grease, and water tend to seep inside and cause ugly discoloration. The best way to prevent this is to seal your new grout and repeat as needed—every year or so for wall and floor tiles that don’t get much moisture, and more often for grout in the shower or on the bathroom backsplash. Adhere to the following instructions, though, and you’ll learn how to seal grout and create a reliable barrier against unsightly stains and a dingy appearance. You may never have to scrub those grout lines again!


- Toothbrush
- Dish soap
- Vinegar
- Sealer
- Sponge or small brush (optional)
- Cloth

How to Seal Grout - Clean Grout with a Toothbrush


Before applying a sealer, be sure to clean your grout thoroughly and repair any cracks or crumbles in the grout lines. Otherwise, you’ll seal in dirt and damaged seams. Scrub away as much of the grime as possible using a toothbrush dipped in soapy water. (Switch to a 50-50 vinegar and warm water solution if you’re trying to eradicate stains.) Tackle one grout line at a time. When you’re finished cleaning the grout, allow the area to dry for 45 minutes before sealing.

Next, choose your sealer based on the type of tile you have and its location. No one sealer is best suited for all situations. As you’ll see when you get to your home improvement store, the variety of products available allows for a certain level of customization. Labels specify which sealers work best with marble, stone, and ceramic tiles, as well as how much moisture the sealer can tolerate, be it high moisture in the shower or low moisture along a kitchen backsplash. Depending on your tile and its location, you can narrow down the choices to two main categories: penetrating sealers and membrane-forming sealers.

• Penetrating sealers use a water or mineral spirit base that lets the formula’s tiny particles of latex or silicone penetrate the granular structure of the grout. As the porous grout absorbs the sealer, the particles of latex and silicone fill in all the gaps, keeping moisture out. These sealers are the best choice for use in especially damp areas, such as bathrooms and, in particular, showers.

• Membrane-forming sealers create a coating on the surface of the grout that resists water permeation. (These sealers work well in the kitchen but should not be used in the bathroom; membrane-forming sealers won’t allow water that’s trapped underneath the tile to evaporate, which, in a swampy shower, could lead to mildew.) These sealers also often feature pigments, so you can change the grout color. While membrane-forming sealers are good for unglazed tile like stone, they won’t adhere to glazed tiles, such as most ceramics.

How to Seal Grout - Shower Tile


Choose the applicator tool that’s right for you. Although aerosol spray-on sealers are commonly used for reasons of convenience, there are a few cases in which they may not be the best choice for your project:

• If you have very thin grout lines and unsealed tiles, a sponge allows you to seal larger sections of your bathroom (walls or floors) easily by wiping over both surfaces at once.

• For glazed tiles where sealer won’t adhere, you’ll need to seal only the grout lines using an applicator brush or specialty applicator bottle with a rolling wheel on top.

Whichever tool you choose, read the manufacturer’s directions on how to seal grout before you begin.

Apply sealer in small areas at a time, working left to right. By working methodically, your grout lines will look more consistent and your sealer will provide better protection—no spots will be overlooked! Keep a dry cloth close by to wipe off the excess sealer. Whether you’re sponging over a large area or using an applicator to avoid drips on glazed tile, you’ll want to remove sealer from the tile before it starts to dry (within five to seven minutes of application) so that you’re not left with a foggy film that’s nearly impossible to remove.

Once you’re done with the first coat, let it dry for an hour before applying a second. (Generally speaking, it takes one to three coats of sealer to achieve adequate protection.)

After the second coat dries, test the surface with a few drops of water. The liquid should bead up into droplets; if not, apply a third coat to ensure quality results.

Let your tiled space dry completely before using. Some sealers need only 24 hours to cure, while others can take up to 48 hours; check the manufacturer’s directions on how to seal grout to be certain. While it may be inconvenient to keep a room off-limits for a day or two, remind yourself how convenient it will be the next time you clean your grout. A good sealer means less time scrubbing, so this is one chore that will make your routine bathroom cleaning a breeze.

Quick Tip: An Easy Refresh for Stinky Bath Towels

Smelly, mildew-infested towels can put a damper on a relaxing bath. Turn dank towels fresh and clean again with this life-changing tip!

Smelly Towels - Dirty Laundry


It’s been a long day, but it’s not you who needs a hot bath—it’s your towels. When wet towels dry in open air, they accumulate mildew only to greet you later on with a foul scent and dingy appearance. But even taking dirty towels for a traditional spin in the laundry doesn’t pack the punch needed to banish deep-set odors. To return to fluffy, fresh bath linen, kick your laundry game into high gear with a couple pantry essentials, vinegar and baking soda.

Smelly Towels - After a Wash


Gather your sullied shower companions and toss them into the washing machine. Reserve this load exclusively for your bath towels so as not to expose other fabrics to the mildew you’re seeking to eliminate. Next, add a cup of white vinegar to the load, skipping the usual suspects like detergent and fabric softener. Now turn your washing machine to the highest heat setting and give those smelly towels—and your bright idea—a whirl! The vinegar will vanquish odor-causing mildew on contact, but for best results, run the towels through a second, additional cycle, this time with the detergent you would normally use.

Still miss the days of brighter bath linen? Try a two-step (and two-cycle) solution that addresses not only the smell but also the appearance of your worn-out towels. For extra scrubbing power to wash away unsightly stains, add a quarter-cup of baking soda into the first load. During the second cycle, throw in a single cup of white vinegar to make mildew a memory (and your towels like new)!