Category: Lawn & Garden


How To: Edge a Lawn

Why edge your lawn? It’s the difference between just mowing a lawn and manicuring it. Maybe time-consuming initially, maintenance will be infrequent, quick, and rewarding.

How to Edge a Lawn

Photo: istockphoto.com

Beautifully mowing a lawn without edging the perimeter and beds is like getting an amazing haircut but leaving an overgrown beard unkempt. You could do that, but why would you? We all know the guy with the perfect lawn, the golfing-green grass with perfectly-edged sides. That guy. Guess what? His secret’s out, and it’s not hard. The peekaboo glimpse of soil in edging looks sharp and snazzy, but it also helps prevents grass from invading your garden beds, sidewalk, or driveway. It doesn’t take a horticulture degree to edge a lawn! All you need is time, the right tools, and patience.

MATERIALS AND TOOLS
- Power-edger
- Manual edging tool (optional)
- Weed whacker and/or hand shears
- Spade
- Rope or garden hose

Tool notes: Some power-edgers are great with curves and some are abysmal; for the latter, you’ll want to switch to the manual edger anyhow for clean cutting. Rather than stock two tools, it’s worth spending more for power that’s both great on curves and makes a big yard a much smaller task.

How to Edge a Lawn

Photo: istockphoto.com

STEP 1
Just like taping before painting, it’s best to know what you’re after with edging. If this is your first time edging your yard and making new beds, mark out a path by using a rope or garden hose laid where you want your edging cuts made. (You will edge between your chosen guide and the pavement or flower bed, so place your guide accordingly.) Some advise spray-painting your path, but this can cause as many problems as it solves, if your spray gets unruly or a wind gust blows unexpectedly.

If edging is obvious, like along sidewalks, you may feel comfortable skipping this step.

STEP 2
For straight edging, start at an end. For curved edging, you may find it easier to control the shape if you start in the center then work out on either side. Depending on the type of edger you’ve invested in, your technique will vary slightly.

• For power edging, assume a good stance that allows you to walk forward slowly while firmly controlling the path of your edger. Engaging your core and watching your posture will keep you in better control. If new to this, make your first practice edge in the backyard so you get the hang of it before the front yard for all to see. Go slowly, because the faster you go, the more likely you’ll go awry and get a wobble cut or go off-track.

Manual edging uses a tool that looks like a shovel with a half-moon blade. Firmly but gently push it in with your feet and rotate the blade left-to- right or vice versa to get your cut. Be sure to use the same procedures as you would with shoveling to avoid straining your back. Overlapping cut marks with each incision may help you stay straight.

STEP 3
With either method, cut only about 2 inches deep, and be wary of buried pipes and cables. This depth may seem arbitrary, but it’s one most power-edgers reach and tends to be sufficient for controlling root spread. Two inches is a rough guide, but it’s your choice. See what depth will be easiest to handle throughout.

STEP 4
Periodically remove cut turf to ensure you’re making clean lines. Stand back for a good look and make corrections where you may have wobbled in or cut inconsistently along the way.

STEP 5
If it’s garden beds you’re edging, grab the spade and deepen edged cuts to about 4 to 6 inches if your flower beds are sunken. If raised, then choose a depth that works aesthetically for your bed. Cut into the bottom from inside the beds for easy turf removal. Some prefer a 90-degree angle for this, but really, it’s about consistency from one end to the other, so pick an angle and carry through.

STEP 6
Ah, the reward! It’s time for perfect edges. Bust out the weed whacker or the hand shears! The goal here is to get the grass cut back perfectly in line with the trench edge. The weed whacker could be overzealous, so proceed cautiously. Hand shears will do a beautiful, meticulous job. Repeat this task as needed throughout the season.

STEP 7
Be nice to your tools. Before you put them away, clean and dry any blades, and follow manufacturer’s maintenance suggestions on your power tools. In general, manual edgers can be filed or sharpened when you find it laborious to use, but cleaning after every use will prolong their sharpness. Power-edgers are similar to lawnmowers—blades should be fine for up to three years, but look for nicks and other damage that may require replacing. Look for blades of grass that seem torn rather than sheared off as a clue that your blades need attention. Now grab a chair and enjoy the beauty of a well-edged yard.

 

Easy DIYs for Your Best-Ever Backyard

All of the Outdoor Design and DIY Tips from BobVila.com
With fair weather having arrived finally, it’s time to turn your home improvement efforts to the backyard and your deck, porch, or patio—the parts of the home built specifically to enjoy the extra hours of sunlight. Guided by these practical pointers and inspiring ideas, you can introduce beauty, comfort, and utility to your backyard and outdoor living areas, making them as inviting and enjoyable as your home interiors.


How To: Get Rid of Ladybugs

These insects are cute as can be—until they take over your home! Follow these tips to rid your space of the pretty little pests and keep them from coming back.

How to Get Rid of Ladybugs

Photo: istockphoto.com

A healthy outdoor ladybug population is a good thing. Gardeners appreciate their voracious appetite for the destructive likes of aphids and scale, while kids of all ages can’t resist counting the spots on their bright bodies. Yet too many coccinellidae—especially if they’ve made their way into your living space—is a sign of potential infestation. The little beetles generally enter homes to hibernate over the winter and can multiply by the thousands, ultimately emerging from the wall structure as an overwhelming nuisance. So don’t be lulled by their cuteness! Debug your place with these techniques.

GET LOST, LADYBUGS!
Due diligence is required to send the pests packing. Remove the ones you see inside immediately with any or all of these effective methods.

How to Get Rid of Ladybugs

Photo: istockphoto.com

Vacuum with vigilance. Notice ladybugs in your domicile? Vacuum them up without delay, then dispose of the bag or empty it outside. You can avoid that messy chore, if you own a canister model with a hose, with this trick: Cut the foot section off an old sock and attach it to the end of the hose with a rubber band. Turn the vacuum on, and the fabric will enter the hose (but not the bag). As you suck up ladybugs, they’ll get caught in the sock attachment—then simply remove the sock and empty it outside.

Turn on a light trap. If ladybugs have infested a dark area, like an attic, use a light trap. Purchase one for about $35 or DIY your own out of a plastic jug, a light bulb, and transparencies typically used for overhead projectors. Once trapped, release the ladybugs outdoors.

Get professional help. If the pest problem is already severe, call a pest control pro to get rid of ladybugs. Over-the-counter insecticides aren’t recommended to control ladybug infestations, but exterminators know what to use and how to use it.

Keep your hands off. Though ladybugs don’t bite or carry disease, you should avoid picking them up individually with your fingers, or even sweeping them into a dustpan. When stressed, ladybugs secrete their blood, a yellow, smelly substance that can stain skin, fabrics, and painted surfaces.

 
STAY AWAY, LADYBUGS!
In fall, ladybugs look for warmth—and your house is an inviting prospect. They’ll enter through any hole, crack, or gap they can find. Keep ladybugs at bay with these preventive measures.

Fix screens. Repair breaks or tears in all screens and don’t leave doors or windows without screens open.

Install weather stripping. Gaps under doors make an easy entry point for ladybugs. Weather stripping on all doors is an excellent barrier (and it helps keep your energy bill down, too).

Seal gaps. Apply high quality silicone caulk to exterior cracks and crevices, in any gaps in your siding, and around window frames, doorframes, and utility pipes. Ladybugs can also enter through cracks in mortar, so if your home is of brick construction, check the pointing and repair with mortar or cement where necessary.


DIY Lite: The Easy Way to Build Better Backyard Privacy

Do you wish your backyard was a little more shaded and secluded? Simply follow these steps, and you can be chilling out in a private outdoor oasis right on your property in less than a weekend.

DIY Outdoor Privacy Screen

Photo: Ohoh Blog for Bob Vila

Are your neighbors so close that it feels like you practically share a backyard? There’s no need to fence off your property! In fact, we may have an even easier solution that defines your outdoor space, establishes privacy, and even creates some extra shade in an otherwise sunny garden. Simply follow our step-by-step and you can build yourself a suitable privacy screen and canopy—all out of less than a dozen wooden planks.

 

DIY Outdoor Privacy Screen - Supplies

Photo: Ohoh Blog for Bob Vila

MATERIALS AND TOOLS
- 8-foot-long 2×4 lumber (6)
- 8-foot-long 2×2 lumber (5)
- Measuring tape
- Pencil
- 2-inch metal brackets (16)
- 3-1⁄2-inch screws (44)
- 1-1⁄2-inch screws (98)
- 12-inch ornamental brackets (8)
- Cordless drill/driver
- Wood tie plates (8)
- Palm sander
- Brush
- Exterior wood stain
- Varnish (optional)
- Outdoor fabric (2-1⁄2 yards by 8 yards)
- Ribbon (2 yards)
- Sewing machine (optional)

 

STEP 1

DIY Outdoor Privacy Screen - Step 1

Photo: Ohoh Blog for Bob Vila

Let’s start by making the roof out of five 8-foot pieces of the 2×2 lumber and two 8-foot pieces of 2×4. For easiest assembly, find a flat surface large enough to accommodate the finished 8-foot-square DIY outdoor privacy screen.

Place the two 2×4 lumber parallel so that 3-1⁄2-inch sides (remember, a 2×4 isn’t exactly 2 inches by 4 inches) face one another and the narrow 1-1⁄2-inch sides lie flat against the ground; separate them by 8 feet. Then, set the five 2×2s perpendicularly in that open space—these will connect the 2×4s. Check against a measuring tape to ensure that you space them equidistantly, leaving 2 feet between each. Position a 2-inch metal bracket inside the corner of each rectangle you’ve created.

 

STEP 2

DIY Outdoor Privacy Screen - Step 2

Photo: Ohoh Blog for Bob Vila

Take note of how, laid out on the flat surface, the 2×2 lengths are about two inches shorter than the 2×4s on either end—that’s not a mistake! Keeping the bottoms flush will ensure the positioning is the same at every intersection and that your roof doesn’t inadvertently end up crooked.

Where each end of a 2×2 meets with a 2×4 wood plank, fasten using two 3-1⁄2-inch screws. (Tip: Whenever you’ll be inserting screws in this project, first drill pilot holes in order to help guide the fasteners and prevent the wood from splitting in the process.)

Work your way down one length of 2×4 and then repeat along the other to build the top of your DIY outdoor privacy screen.

 

STEP 3

DIY Outdoor Privacy Screen - Step 3

Photo: Ohoh Blog for Bob Vila

Screw 2-inch metal brackets at every intersection of lumber. Two brackets (which use four 1-1⁄2-inch screws apiece) will secure both sides of every 2×2 end, except at the outer corners where you can only place one.

 

STEP 4

DIY Outdoor Privacy Screen - Step 4

Photo: Ohoh Blog for Bob Vila

The four remaining 2×4 planks will make the DIY prviacy screen’s legs. Cut a foot from each length so that they’re only 7-feet tall. (You can get this done at a big box hardware store at the time of purchase, or saw them off yourself at home.)

Then, while the roof is still laying on the floor, prepare to attach the legs to it using eight 12-inch ornamental brackets, or two in each of the structure’s corners.

• Start by attaching the ornamental brackets to the roof’s 2×4s. Pencil a mark 3-1⁄2 inches from the end of one of the 2×4s in order to leave enough space for a leg. Position one bracket so that its corner aligns with your pencil mark (the decorative part will face the opposite end), and attach using 3-1⁄2-inch screws. Repeat at the opposite end of this length, then complete the second 2×4 in the same manner.
• Next, place the remaining 12-inch brackets at the ends of the outermost 2×2s; they’ll be perpendicular to the ones already installed. Push each right to where the 2×2 intersects the 2×4, and use 1-1⁄2-inch screws to fasten to the roof lumber.

 

STEP 5

DIY Outdoor Privacy Screen - Step 5

Photo: Ohoh Blog for Bob Vila

Now, you will need help of at least two strong friends for this step. Raise the roof structure and flip it so that the ornamental brackets face down. Ask your assistants to hold the roof structure while you attach the exposed halves of the brackets to the four legs with 1-1⁄2-inch screws. (The lumber should fit neatly in the space you left for each leg in Step 4.)

 

STEP 6

DIY Outdoor Privacy Screen - Step 6

Photo: Ohoh Blog for Bob Vila

Reinforce the structure where the roof and the legs meet by screwing 2-inch by 4-inch wood tie plates over the outside of each corner, one on each side. If you can use an L-shaped tie plate, even better!

 

STEP 7

DIY Outdoor Privacy Screen - Step 7

Photo: Ohoh Blog for Bob Vila

Congratulations! You’ve just built the bulk of your DIY outdoor privacy screen, and you’ll be sitting shaded from sun and neighbors soon enough. Round up your friends, and—each one taking a foot—move the soon-to-be shelter to its destination in your yard.

 

STEP 8

DIY Outdoor Privacy Screen - Step 8

Photo: Ohoh Blog for Bob Vila

Sand the entire structure, then apply a coat of exterior wood stain in the direction of the grain. The brush you use to do so will depend on your stain of choice: Work with a natural-bristle brush for oil stains and a synthetic-bristle brush for latex stains. Stir the stain periodically so that the color remains well mixed as you apply it to the large structure. Then, leave the wood to dry for the product’s recommended amount of time (likely 24 hours).

If you don’t have a specially formulated exterior wood stain to help weatherproof your backyard project, you  can choose a standard stain followed by at least two coats of varnish to protect it over the outdoor season.

 

STEP 9

DIY Outdoor Privacy Screen - Step 9

Photo: Ohoh Blog for Bob Vila

In order to cover not only the sides of our backyard privacy screen but also shade the top, we purchased a piece of fabric that was 2-1⁄2 yards wide by 8 yards long. A simple cotton fabric works well, but outdoor fabric—resistant to fading, stains, and mildew—is even better for this sort of use.

Sew a small, 1⁄2-inch seam all along the fabric edges to avoid fraying. (If you don’t own a sewing machine, check if your fabric store might for a small fee.) While you’re at it, attach a 20-inch ribbon at each corner to tie down the fabric around your canopy’s feet.

 

STEP 10

DIY Outdoor Privacy Screen - Step 10

Photo: Ohoh Blog for Bob Vila

Finally, attach the canopy by weaving it through the 2×2s in the structure’s roof (over one, under the next, and so on). Drop the fabric on the sides and make a knot with the ribbon around each foot to hold the shade in place. With that, your private outdoor room awaits! And whenever you want to invite a large party of guests over to admire your latest backyard addition, simply raise one fabric side and tie it to a tree to increase the shaded area. (Trust us, you’ll want to invite the guests over.)

DIY Outdoor Privacy Screen - Completed Project

Photo: Ohoh Blog for Bob Vila

DIY Outdoor Privacy Screen - Expanded Shade

Photo: Ohoh Blog for Bob Vila

Ama is a DIY addict and the creative mind behind Ohoh Blog. She likes home decor, lighting, and furniture projects that may involve painting, sewing, drilling…no matter the technique! Whatever she has on hand is inspiration to create, and fodder for her serious addiction to upcycling.

 

Easy DIYs for Your Best-Ever Backyard

All of the Outdoor Design and DIY Tips from BobVila.com
With fair weather having arrived finally, it’s time to turn your home improvement efforts to the backyard and your deck, porch, or patio—the parts of the home built specifically to enjoy the extra hours of sunlight. Guided by these practical pointers and inspiring ideas, you can introduce beauty, comfort, and utility to your backyard and outdoor living areas, making them as inviting and enjoyable as your home interiors.


How To: Kill Tree Roots

Just because you cut down the trunk doesn’t mean your troubles are over. These options will help you regain your yard.

How to Kill Tree Roots

Photo: istockphoto.com

Trees add great beauty to your landscape and their shade can help keep cooling costs low. But when a tree outgrows its location or is seriously damaged in a storm, it becomes a hazard that should be removed—and chopping it down is only half the battle. A tree’s underground root system can extend up to 20 feet deep in ideal soil conditions, and spread over an even greater area. These tree roots can continue to grow even after the trunk is history and, if close to your sewer line or foundation, cause serious damage. Eliminate underground issues with either the chemical or natural treatment described here—just remember to use caution and keep both herbicide and rock salt out of reach of pets and kids. Now read on to get to the root of the problem.

OPTION 1: Chemical Herbicide

The fastest, most effective way to kill roots is with chemical herbicide, as soon as the tree has been cut down. If you can treat the tree immediately, proceed to Step 2; if not, follow Step 1.

How to Kill Tree Roots

Photo: istockphoto.com

MATERIALS AND TOOLS
- Saw
- Water
- Watering can or hose
- Glyphosate herbicide (such as RoundUp) with 41 percent or higher active ingredient concentration
- Small bucket
- Garden sprayer, hand-held sprayer, or paintbrush

If the tree was cut down days (or more) ago, make a fresh cut with a saw across what remains of the trunk. This slice should create a flat surface and expose new flesh. With trees three inches or less in diameter, cut across the entire surface of the trunk. For larger trees, expose new flesh of the outer two to three inches.

Saturate the tree’s cambium layer—the outer ring located just under the bark—with 2 to 3 inches of water. As t his outer layer is still alive and growing, the liquid will help carry the herbicide from the live tissue to the tree roots.

Mix a 50/50 solution of glyphosate herbicide to water and apply it to the exposed cambium layer. You can use a garden sprayer, hand-held sprayer, or paintbrush to do so. Be careful in your application to avoid splashing and inadvertently harming plants or grass surrounding the trunk. Tree roots should die off completely in a couple of weeks.

 

OPTION 2: Rock Salt

Although it takes longer than chemical herbicide, rock salt can effectively kill tree roots by robbing them of water.

MATERIALS AND TOOLS
- Rock salt
- Water
- Drill with 1-inch or larger drill bit

Drill several holes 3 to 4 inches deep into the cut surface of the tree trunk. Before you stow your power tool, bore several additional holes into any larger roots that are exposed near the ground.

Fill the holes completely with rock salt, and pour water into them to fill to the top. Avoid overfilling, as the rock salt solution is harmful to surrounding vegetation and toxic to pets—you won’t want any spillover. Repeat this process several times for a few months, and eventually rock salt will kill the tree roots. (You’ll know the roots are dead when there is no longer any regrowth from the trunk.)

 

Fear that the roots have invaded a sewer line or your foundation? Maybe you wish to keep the decomposing material from feeding unattractive fungus. In either case, you could also attempt digging the larger tree roots out of the ground. It’s an arduous process, but once you remove them you can reclaim your lawn.

 

Easy DIYs for Your Best-Ever Backyard

All of the Outdoor Design and DIY Tips from BobVila.com
With fair weather having arrived finally, it’s time to turn your home improvement efforts to the backyard and your deck, porch, or patio—the parts of the home built specifically to enjoy the extra hours of sunlight. Guided by these practical pointers and inspiring ideas, you can introduce beauty, comfort, and utility to your backyard and outdoor living areas, making them as inviting and enjoyable as your home interiors.


All You Need to Know About Fence Materials

Before you set out to build an enclosure for your property, consider these nine popular materials to find the type of fencing that's best for your needs and budget.

Fence Materials

Photo: istockphoto.com

From the zigzag post-and-rail of the Colonial era to the elaborate molded vinyl styles of today, fences have always been a preferred means of ensuring privacy and deterring unwanted visitors. Whether you want to keep your pets safely in your yard or keep the neighborhood children out of your flowerbed, there’s a fence style and material fit for your property.

Before loading your truck with fencing materials at the lumberyard, take a few minutes to call your local zoning office to find out what, if any, preliminary steps you need to take. If you’re putting the fence on a property line, you might need a lot survey. If you belong to a homeowners association or live in a development that is subject to covenants, you could be restricted to using specific materials and limited on fence height. Once you’ve got the green light, the next step is choosing the right type of fence material.

 

Fence Types - Cedar

Photo: istockphoto.com

FENCE TYPE: Cedar
Cedar, the king of backyard privacy fencing, is known for its long-lasting good looks—tight grain, fewer knots, and a desirable red hue—and its promise never to warp or shrink. While cedar also naturally resists decay and insects, this wood is not as impervious to soil as treated wood and will likely rot after several years set in it. If you choose to build a fence from cedar, it’s recommended to install in a concrete base or secure to fence posts that are treated wood. Even so, the installation process is DIY-friendly, and you can customize the planks to create a variety of styles, including saddleback and lattice-topped.

Maintenance Tip: Cedar naturally weathers to a silvery gray, and a fence of this material will require maintenance, including occasional plank replacement. For long-lasting color and protection, apply a penetrating sealant immediately after installation and annually thereafter.

 

Fence Types - Vinyl

Photo: istockphoto.com

FENCE TYPE: Vinyl
Vinyl fencing has been around for a few decades, but it’s still a relatively new kid on the block. Early vinyl fencing products had a tendency to yellow, sag, or become brittle after a couple of years, but today’s fence manufacturers are putting out durable fencing products in a variety of heights and styles. When it comes to quality, thickness counts; thicker gauge, “virgin” vinyl will look best for the longest amount of time (some with a lifetime guarantee). For the best results, installation must be precise, so consider hiring a professional fence installer. A little out-of-level here or slightly out-of-plumb there will be significantly noticeable in the finished fence.

Maintenance Tip: Once installed, vinyl fencing is virtually maintenance-free. Wash dirt off occasionally with a mild detergent, rinse with a garden hose, and you’re good to go.

 

Fence Types - Composite

Photo: homedepot.com

FENCE TYPE: Composite
Manufactured from wood fibers combined with plastic polymers, composite fencing provides a like-wood look without the propensity to degrade from insects and rot. Such combination of style and substance runs slightly more expensive than vinyl and cedar, though, in both material and installation—like vinyl fencing, composite requires precise installation by professionals. Since the material’s quality varies, you’ll want to explore your options and buy composite fencing components from a reputable dealer.

Maintenance Tip: After professional installation, composite fencing requires only an occasional spraying with plain water to keep it looking clean and fresh.

 

Fence Types - Redwood

Photo: homedepot.com

FENCE TYPE: Redwood and teak
You’ll pay top dollar for a redwood or teak fence, but nothing else compares to their natural softness and luster. Because they’re expensive, redwood and teak fences are usually limited to small areas: enclosures around spas or pools. Like cedar, redwood and teak both naturally resist insects, decay, shrinking, and warping from the elements.

Maintenance Tip: Both redwood and teak require the application of a penetrating sealer or oil once or twice a year to maintain their original color. A light sanding prior to application will remove surface weathering.

 

Fence Types - Metal

Photo: istockphoto.com

FENCE TYPE: Metal
Options for metal fencing range from classic to contemporary, with a variety to match or blend with any home exterior. Wrought iron fences have survived centuries of style changes, and with good reason: More than simply classic, they’re extremely durable. Consider hiring a specialized fencing contractor if you’re looking to incorporate the traditional appeal of wrought iron into your property, as these enclosures tend to be custom made to fit the property and even include more intricate patterns. Some newer metal options—including cast iron, aluminum, and steel fences—package the strength of wrought iron with a more DIY-friendly panel installation.

Maintenance Tip: Aluminum fencing holds up without rust all year long, but wrought iron and some steel fences require treatment with a brush-on or spray-on rust-inhibiting paint when they start to show signs of corrosion.

 

Fence Types - Treated Wood Pickets

Photo: istockphoto.com

FENCE TYPE: Treated wood
Pressure- and chemically-treated wood pickets or cedar-style planks are a popular pick for outdoor structures as a whole—gazezbos, decks, pergolas, and more—and assembled as a fence, they offer privacy at a wallet-friendly cost. While this more economical fencing option is a perfect choice for fence posts inserted in the ground (treated wood resists both insects and moisture), its fence pickets have a tendency to warp or twist as quickly as one month after installation. For best shot at a warp-free results, handpick out the planks individually from your local lumberyard rather than having them delivered in bulk. Look for the straightest planks and skip any that look “green,” or damp, which could indicate they recently came from the manufacturer and are more likely to move as they dry.

Maintenance Tip: Seal or paint treated wood for a better look, and replace warped planks as needed.

 

Fence Types - Brick Masonry

Photo: istockphoto.com

FENCE TYPE: Masonry
Concrete, stucco, brick, block, and stone fences create a stately aesthetic around the home, but at a cost: These materials skew pricey and require professional installation. Due to their weight, masonry fences need a structural footing poured below the frost line, or the depth to which the groundwater in soil is expected to freeze in winter. Many homeowners mix some type of masonry with another fencing material, such as wrought iron or wood, for reasons of both design and cost. Block and poured concrete require steel reinforcement and brick fences often feature a concrete or block inner fence with brick veneer only on the exterior.

Maintenance Tip: Over time, mortar joints in stone and brick fences can work loose and require re-pointing to stabilize.

 

Fence Types - Chain Link

Photo: istockphoto.com

FENCE TYPE: Chain link
While their open links certainly don’t do much for privacy, chain link fences offer adequate security for pets and kids at a competitively low cost. The materials are among the least expensive fencing options available, making this type of fence is a common choice for large rural yards where the amount of fencing needed makes other choices cost-prohibitive. In addition to economical materials, an easy-to-DIY installation—one that involves setting posts, installing a top rail, and then stretching linked mesh between the rails and posts—saves homeowners more money.

Maintenance Tip: Chain link can corrode, especially at the junctions where the mesh links meet, but it’s difficult to prevent. For a better look and a longer life, consider upgrading to vinyl-coated chain link.

 

Fence Types - Barbed Wire

Photo: istockphoto.com

FENCE TYPE: Barbed wire
This type of fence is strictly functional, usually set up to keep livestock in or natural predators out. Its standard design is simple and affordable enough for property owners looking to fence in a larger area: five strands of barbed wire strung taut between metal T-posts around the perimeter of the property, with heftier wood or steel posts installed at the corners to support the tension of the stretched wire. Before you install, know that barbed wire fencing is limited to rural use and prohibited in most communities.

Maintenance Tip: Barbed wire strands should be re-stretched from time to time if they sag due to livestock leaning on them.


Bob Vila Radio: Going Green in the Garden

What would we do without clean water? From brushing our teeth to boiling pasta, we use the life-giving liquid all day long. But it's outside—not in our homes—where we waste the most resources. Do your part to save water in the garden with these fast fixes.

Playing nice with the planet includes conserving resources, and good old H2O is at the top of the list. Every gardener can cut down on water waste at home with a few simple changes.

save-water-garden

Photo: istockphoto.com

Audio clip: Adobe Flash Player (version 9 or above) is required to play this audio clip. Download the latest version here. You also need to have JavaScript enabled in your browser.

Listen to BOB VILA ON SAVING WATER IN THE GARDEN or read the text below:

First, instead of dousing your flowers and vegetables with gallons of water all at once, use a soaker hose. You’ll get less runoff and less evaporation. Bend a flexible length of gutter to guide water from a downspout into a rain barrel. Rain barrels come in a variety of sizes and are available at home improvement stores.

If your prefer your plants in hanging baskets, pick self-watering containers. When the soil dries out, the built-in water reservoir at the bottom replenishes moisture. Decorative ceramic pots, on the other hand, should be treated with a sealer to make them less porous. Finally, try adding water-absorbing crystals to the soil. They’ll keep your plants from drying out, even if you forget about them for a few days.

Bob Vila Radio is a 60-second home improvement radio tip of the day carried on more than 186 stations in 75 markets around the country. Click here to subscribe, so you can automatically receive each new episode as it arrives—absolutely free!


Genius! Build a Bee Hotel for a Healthier Garden

Flowers can be finicky—and sometimes, more watering and sunlight don't do the trick. For a healthier garden this season (and the next!), make this simple bee hotel to bring more pollinators into your yard.

bee-hotel-1

Photo: blog.freepeople.com

Decades ago, famed physicist Albert Einstein predicted that once the bees were gone, people would disappear, too. He died before anyone could prove him wrong or right, but today we’re closer than ever to finding the truth. That’s partly because Colony Collapse Disorder (CCD)—a condition where workers leave their hive and queen to fend for themselves—has slashed the American bee population by a third in the last five years. Researchers are still studying the cause, but the consequences are clear: Fewer pollinators for fruits, vegetables, and grains mean limited crop yield, driving up demand and food prices for everyone.

Fortunately, you can do your part to encourage these hard workers to hang around. Start by planting a few of their favorite snacks in your backyard—poppies, sunflowers, and sage are all tried-and-true favorites. Once you’ve created a buzz with your new plants, make bees a home away from home like Free People blogger Julia did to keep them coming back.

Her tubular design set in an A-frame made from scrap wood is inspired by real-life nests of solitary bees, often hollow stems or abandoned narrow holes bored into wood by beetles. In her DIY, however, she used bamboo shoots picked up at her local garden store (they’re also available in larger bundles at big-box home improvement stores like Home Depot) and a few toilet paper tubes in order to create the separate “rooms” for her bee hotel. An eye hook twisted into the top of the frame allows her to string the whole structure over a blossoming tree branch in her backyard. The brilliant repurposing—plus its placement near flowers that need pollinating—make this an irresistible rest stop for most wild bee species.

There are lots of things you can buy to revive your lawn and garden after a long summer, but we’re a fan of keeping things simple. And if your plants are ailing, bringing in nature’s most prolific pollinators will make a world of difference.

FOR MORE: Free People

bee-hotel-2

Photo: blog.freepeople.com


How To: Make Weed Killer

No need to break your back pulling up ugly unwanted plants. Just try these safe, simple, and all-natural solutions!

How to Make Weed Killer - to Clean Up Between Paver Cracks

Photo: istockphoto.com

You work hard at horticulture, so the last thing you want is gnarly weeds littering your lawn or popping up smack dab in the middle of your prized petunias. Weeds can even sneak into your driveway or sidewalk, becoming a tripping hazard as well as an eyesore. But there’s no need to spend your summer on hands and knees, yanking them out, or to resort to pricey chemical killers whose toxins can damage your property. Instead, follow any of these four easy, effective methods for making weed killer and attack those irksome interlopers ASAP. Just take care to not to douse nearby plants, because these equal-opportunity herbicides won’t discriminate between weeds and your landscaped lovelies.

MATERIALS AND TOOLS
- Vinegar (white or cider)
- Dish soap
- Table salt
- Spray bottle
- Corn gluten meal
- Rubbing alcohol

How to Make Weed Killer - DIY Spray

Photo: istockphoto.com

Thrifty Triple Threat
They look harmless enough sitting on your kitchen counter, but vinegar, dish soap, and salt make a tenacious trifecta against weeds. Combine equals parts of these ingredients and pour into a spray bottle. Spritz your homemade weed killer unsparingly onto the stems and leaves of the undesirables in flower or vegetable beds during high sun, low wind conditions. (Avoid getting it on cement, which salt can discolor or even erode.) The dish soap will disintegrate the cuticle of the plant, allowing the salt and acetic acid in the vinegar to desiccate and destroy weeds.

Corn Meal Killer
Scattered over weed seeds, as opposed to mature weeds, corn gluten meal acts as a natural, non-toxic pre-emergent that can prevent germination. For optimal results, begin by tilling the soil in an established flower or vegetable bed to unearth weed seeds. Then, sprinkle the mighty maize directly over the seeds during a dry weather period. Steer clear of plots with recently sown flower or vegetable seeds as the corn gluten meal can stunt their growth along with the weed seeds.

Very Hot Stuff
Put the kettle on and boil some water, then take it outside (or fill a flask). Gently pour over the crown of pesky plants to scorch them in matter of days. Aim carefully, because the hot liquid can also burn surrounding plants—or your toes. While one application may be sufficient for weeds with short root structures, perennials with long taproots may require two to three applications before reaching their permanent demise.

Reliable Rubout
Dilute two tablespoons of rubbing alcohol in a bowl with four cups of water. Transfer the solution to a spray bottle and liberally coat the leaves of weeds in flower or vegetable plots, preferably on a sunny day. As the alcohol dries, it will wither the leaves and eventually kill uninvited vegetation.

 

Easy DIYs for Your Best-Ever Backyard

All of the Outdoor Design and DIY Tips from BobVila.com
With fair weather having arrived finally, it’s time to turn your home improvement efforts to the backyard and your deck, porch, or patio—the parts of the home built specifically to enjoy the extra hours of sunlight. Guided by these practical pointers and inspiring ideas, you can introduce beauty, comfort, and utility to your backyard and outdoor living areas, making them as inviting and enjoyable as your home interiors.


Buyer’s Guide: Lawn Edgers

With a wide array of precisely-calibrated edgers available to keep your yard manicured and under control, it’s easier than ever to maintain your curb appeal. Here, our buyer’s guide walks you through the basics and helps you find the lawn tool that’s best for you.

Best Lawn Edger

Photo: istockphoto.com

Whether your yard is large or small, minimally landscaped or filled with flower beds, one of the easiest ways to keep it looking sharp is to invest in a quality lawn edger to tame unruly edges. Much like framing a picture enhances your home’s artwork, maintaining an evenly trimmed perimeter elevates the overall appearance of your lawn. Its crisp edges signify a well-tended property—particularly when you pay close attention to growth along the edges of your driveway, sidewalk, garden beds, and walking paths. Simplify your search for the best lawn edger by identifying your property’s needs using the shopping guide below and starting with the roundup of the most highly recommended and well-reviewed models around.

Start (with) your engines. Generally speaking, there are two kinds of lawn edgers: those with electric engines, and those that run on gas.

• An electric-powered edger—often the more budget-friendly option and top choice for homeowners with a small outdoor space—will either run off of a battery or plug in to an electrical outlet via a lengthy cord. Though it only boasts 18 or so volts of power, a battery-operated model allows you to trim anywhere, no matter the distance to the nearest outlet. Alternatively, a corded model’s trade-off is more power (usually 10 to 12 amps) for slightly less mobility (or, at minimum, the use of an extension cord for larger jobs).
• A gas-powered edger, available in a two- or four-cycle format, is more powerful and therefore better suited for larger yards. While two-cycle engines are more common, they require you to stock and refuel using both gas and oil—far less environmentally conscious than four-cycle engines, which run clean but cost and weigh more.

Wheels up. While lightweight manual edgers move on nothing more than the guidance you give them, the weight of an engine typically requires three or four wheels to cover your grounds without strain. In all wheeled models, the rear wheels are responsible for moving the entire unit along, while a guide wheel keeps the blade aligned with the task at hand. Some gas-powered edgers offer the addition of a fourth wheel (a “curb wheel”) to help stabilize the edger when you’re using it at a slight drop-off, such as the line where your lawn meets the street. If you opt for an electric model or will not be maneuvering too many curbs, a three-wheeled edger might be all you need.

Choose the right cutting edge. A straight, no-frills blade can handle simple yards just fine, but an edger that offers multiple position and angle settings might be worth the investment if you’ve got a lot of flower beds and specialty features on your property. The following are three main types of edger blades:

• Flat rectangular blades with plain edges are most common among lawn edgers, suitable for basic edging jobs where the lawn is flush and level with the nearest hard surface (like a driveway or sidewalk).
Flat rectangular blades with scoop-cut edges carefully handle the perimeter of more delicate landscaping features like flower beds, which might otherwise be disturbed by the debris in a rough cutting. These blades are also ideal to employ when the lawn and hard surfaces are uneven.
• Star-shaped blades aptly cut lawns that end at a wall or sturdy fence.

If you have only a few needs to address, you could get by with purchasing the desired replacement blade(s) of your choice for the edger and swapping them in as necessary—while easy enough, this transition does add some time to the yard work.

 

THE BEST BETS

Best Lawn Edger - Ariens Walk-Behind Gas Edger

Photo: ariens.com

Ariens 986103 136 cc Edger ($464)
The staff of Popular Mechanics gave this four-cycle, gas-powered edger its highest ranking for its power, durability, and controlled handling, which was virtually free of any vibration or shaking as it cut. Clocking in at a solid 85 pounds, it’s certainly not lightweight, but its reviewers insist that’s part of why it gets the job done so well. What’s more, its seven—yes, seven—angle settings and four depth settings allow you to customize the cut for almost any challenge your yard poses. Available on Amazon.

 

Best Lawn Edger - Worx WG160 12-Inch 20-Volt Cordless Edger available at The Home Depot

Photo: homedepot.com

Worx WG160 12-Inch 20-Volt Cordless Grass Trimmer/Edger ($99)
Earning a strong 4.5-star rating from Home Depot customers, this battery-powered trimmer/edger combo offers two utilities in one without the noise, expense, and environmental detriment of gas and with more mobility than its corded counterparts. With a telescopic shaft that tilts 90 degrees in hard-to-reach places, its versatility is rare in the under-$100 category. Running on a 20-volt lithium battery, the 7-pound model is lightweight and easy to use. Available at The Home Depot.

 

Best Lawn Edger - Black + Decker LE750 Edge Hog from Amazon

Photo: amazon.com

Black + Decker LE750 Edge Hog ($84)
By far the most popular lawn edger with Amazon buyers is this three-wheeled electric “little engine that could” from Black + Decker. Sold at an agreeable price point and ranked 4.5 out of 5 stars by more than 1,200 customers, the corded electric model packs an 11-amp punch, built-in cord retention for hassle-free storage, tool-free assembly, and even assist handles for both righties and lefties alike. Available on Amazon.

With just a bit of elbow grease and the right edger to spruce things up, you can enjoy a perfect perimeter around a lawn where the grass is always greener—or, at least, the edges are always cleaner.


Cool Tools: A Triple-Threat to Help Your Garden Thrive

The newest multitalented water wand from HYDE delivers a trifecta of weeding, feeding, and watering capabilities that will help your lawn and garden survive the summer.

Hyde PivotPro Lawn and Garden Wand - Watering and Fertilizing Around House

Photo: hydetools.com

Summer teases us with warm breezes and long days just perfect for relaxation and repose. But for many homeowners, too many so-called “lazy” summer days are spent performing the backbreaking work necessary to maintain or beautify the yard. When you’re not straining to spread weed killer on the grass or direct water into awkwardly positioned planters, you’re hunched over scrubbing the patio furniture or cleaning the sidewalk. If you’re ready to take a vacation from all this strenuous summer activity, look no further than the HYDE PivotPro Garden Wand Kit for your salvation. Whether you’re tasked with weeding, feeding, or watering the garden, or just tidying up around your property, this must-have multi-tool—complete with a pivoting three-setting spray nozzle and a weed-feed additive dispenser—can eliminate the stress and fatigue of getting your lawn and garden in tip-top condition.

Effortlessly and Efficiently Weed Out Unwanted Greens
Unsightly weeds can be hard to reach and even harder to tame when they grow in hilly terrain or in awkward nooks and crannies of the lawn. Add to this the difficulty of pushing a weighty walk-behind spreader up and down those same slopes, and it’s easy to see how applying weed killer could seriously strain your arms, legs, or back. If, however, you swap out the standard spreader for the lightweight HYDE PivotPro Garden Water Wand, which attaches to an unrolled hose, you can weed the lawn at your own pace and in a comfortable, upright position.

To make the most of this smaller and smarter garden helper’s weeding capabilities, start by connecting the PivotPro to your garden hose. Then, simply pour the liquid weed-control concentrate of your choice into the tool’s 16-ounce weed-and-feed additive dispenser. Set the liquid ratio dial to the concentrate-to-water ratio recommended by the product’s manufacturer, and toggle the mix control switch to the “on” position. Water from the garden hose will dilute the concentrate as you work your way down an overgrown sidewalk or along the edge of the garden, gently sliding the handle to adjust the spray angle. Thanks to the wand’s 135-degree pivoting nozzle, you’ll have easy access to tight corners and narrow corridors, and even around irregularly shaped bushes.

Hyde PivotPro Lawn and Garden Wand - Watering Hanging Baskets

Photo: hydetools.com

Nourish Your Turf
When you’re finished weeding, there’s no need to switch out tools before you tackle your next seasonal to-do. Because you can remove, wash, and refill the detachable dispenser with any additive, you can put the PivotPro Garden Water Wand—the same one that you just used for spreading weed killer—to work fertilizing your lawn. The tool’s versatility means that you can save time, money, and storage space.

After you’ve thoroughly cleaned out the weed-killing concentrate from the dispenser, refill it with fertilizer concentrate. Here again, you have full control (and flexibility) when it comes to the feed-to-water ratio your plants require. The wand’s automatic liquid ratio adjustment mechanism ensures optimal fertilizer spread with no measuring, calculations, or manual premixing required on your part, so you can transform your nutrient-starved grass into a luxurious lawn in a fraction of the time it used to take.

Water More Than Just Grass
While the PivotPro Garden Water Wand delivers a quick one-two punch of weed killer and fertilizer to a lackluster lawn, it can just as easily be used to rinse or clean countless items throughout your yard. Toggle the mix control switch on the wand to the “off” position, so its nozzle will spray only plain water. The jet, fan, and shower modes of the three-setting spray nozzle—as well as the wand’s 46-inch reach—offer remarkable flexibility: You can direct a gentle mist over the rim of a hanging planter, then maneuver down to ground level to hose off dingy tools, shoes, or garden furniture with a powerful jet of water. Better yet, fill the dispenser with soapy water to turn the PivotPro into an all-purpose cleaning tool for all seasons! Wherever you put it to use, the PivotPro Garden Water Wand can help you attain greener pastures on your own home turf.

Purchase HYDE PivotPro Garden Water Wand, $39.99.

Watch the video below to see the HYDE PivotPro Garden Water Wand in action!

 

This post has been brought to you by Hyde Tools. Its facts and opinions are those of BobVila.com.