Latest Discussions : Basement & Foundation

Anonymous

11:47PM | 04/17/04
per the Minn source of info...thats exactly what I`m talking about.For instance,they say keep to divert water away from house by means of downspouts,grade etc...what they either don`t understand and-or don`t tell us is HOW/WHY exactly water DOES get into the house.It is NOT because of downspout extension fell off or grade is sloped towards wall,it IS because there is EITHER 1)Direct openings on the OUTSIDE of the house that allow water to enter and/or 2)There is a problem under the bsmt floor(high water table area on which home exists) and the water level needs to be controlled by means of sump pump/inside system(water NOT coming from walls)...there is absolutely no way that by all the different means of trying to divert surface water on the outside that those means will keep all water away from cracks which exist 4-8' deep in the walls and/or will divert enough water away in an already high water table area which will stop water that is deep in the ground from being forced up through cracks in bsmt floor etc.And ALL these diff diverting techniques will NOT take ANY Hydrostatic pressure off the outside of one`s wall(s).That Minn article also talks about using SAND as backfill! Wow...I guess they do not know that,while sand will have alot less pressure against the walls,it WILL clog(I mean totally clog)your drain tiles (T-tile/bleeder)and rest of outside tiles and more importantly the Inside tiles under your bsmt floor..sand will clog in them like a ROCK! So while sand,like peastone are the best backfill material as far as taking pressure off the outside of a wall,peastone is best.And then they get into the crap about outside means being expensive...vs what? The inside method? Then why are the inside companies charging as much if not more? Again,the Inside method is MUCH Less Costly to install vs Outside..and much less labor intensive,yet these guys charge as much if not more? Hmmmm! Even the Minn article correctly states the Inside tile method is less costly and"simple" to install! And it correctly states the Inside method does not and will not solve water/moisture that comes into & through a wall.So it also does not take Hyd pressure off the wall,and it will not prevent mold,mildew,efflorescence! So,why would a homeowner want to put thousands of dollars into redo`g the inside of their basement for extra living space and not stop the mold,efflorescence and have the hyd pressure taken off the walls...IF that was the problem.Ive seen time and time again people get talked into the Inside method from these high pressure sales guys when the only problem was 1 or 2 cracks in their wall,they were talked into a $6,000-15,000 job when they coulda had cracks correctly fixed and stopped water from entering the basement for about 775-1,000 for 2 cracks.Many of these articles don`t speak enough or at all about Hydrostatic pressure that is on the outside of bsmt walls,I mean TONS of pressure,and they don`t speak about block walls that can deteriorate from allowing water to continually enter into the cells/holes of the blocks.An Inside method doesnt address hyd pressure,doesnt stop water from entering(mold) and will not stop further movement or deterioration of a block wall.I understand that some folks have ONLY problems under the bsmt floor and WILL need a sump(s) or inside method to control the level of water there.But I`ve also seen,at least in my area(Midwest) that MOST peoples problems here are from cracks and other outside openings and they should have problems fixed from outside.The Minn article actually says that it is appealing to solve a moisture problem w/a membrane or coating on the inside? Says it "SEEMS(lol) to work for SOME time"??? What are they talking about...are they saying that a paint like Drylock is going to keep water/moisture from entering through a crack that is on the outside of a wall? Thats why an architect is NOT a Bsmt Waterproofer...he doesnt know-doesnt get the whole picture.The article says the first things that should be done is the downspouts,the grade etc....why doesnt it simply state that if there is a crack in the wall..the crack needs to be sealed? That is the problem! The crack...not the downspout or grade!And it should also state that if the homeowner has water being forced up through cracks in floor then that is the problem and again,not the downspout or grade! GL!


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