02:57AM | 07/11/07
Member Since: 03/05/04
301 lifetime posts
SEE drain tiles? NOT one thing wrong with them.

SEE gaps/openings under sill, which was UNDER the concrete, builder left em and city inspector OK`d this, its a joke!

SEE pics 13-15...scraper in I-joint, thats another opening that allows water to enter, Inside systems do NOT stop water infiltration through ANY of these openings and so again, will not stop/prevent MOLD,efflorescence,termites & other insects from entering. Won`t stop radon from entering any exterior openings/gaps either.

Another point, just because someone is licensed doesn`t mean job will be done correctly. Just because a permit is pulled and city inspects does NOT necessarily mean crap either!

How about this city inspector? READ LAST sentence.....

'In fact, the citys chief building inspector is a former builder whose Building LICENSE was REVOKED for shoddy construction'

Thats just wonderful, right.

Some folks have a finished basement so they can be easily be misinformed/lied on what the actual problem is. Bottom line, DEFINE HOW water is getting in. Many ONLY have 1 or 2 cracks on outside or, other openings on outside that allow water to FIRST enter, its all they need to repair.

MANY do NOT need any Inside drain tile or baseboard system, NONSENSE!

And they certianly don`t need a full inside perimeter system which is what many scamming salespeople try and tell ya, push on homeowners. Fact is MOST salespeople don`t have foundation and basement waterproofing expertise, NO they don`t. The game is to CONFUSE homeowners, misinform them


03:32AM | 07/11/07
Member Since: 03/05/04
301 lifetime posts
For those with block walls, THIS is where/how water FIRST enters into the cores of blocks, eventually coming onto bsmt floor along cove/cold joint. Its why many have mold or efflorescence etc on bst wall(s)

again, may have to click 'back' on right side to VIEW

SEE vertical crack at corner? This crack does NOT appear on Inside of basement.

SEE ROOT growing into crack? Roots can widen a crack.

See how easy water/moisture,radon,insects can enter?

NO INSIDE Drain tile or baseboard system stops/prevents further-future water from entering! lolol, thats IMPOSSIBLE because the only means of repairing/sealing these cracks are from the outside, of course.

Thats why many who install inside systems will place a partial or full 'sheeting-paneling' against the inside of bsmt wall, they probably won`t if there is drywall there. Point is to HIDE/conceal any water/dampness/mold/crack widening/wall bowing in etc.

READ 6th paragraph......

Most/just about ALL basement walls are NOT Waterproofed when built, NO they are not. Newer homes are at best Only damproofed, damproofing is nowhere close to waterproofing! And most walls are not backfilled with mostly/all gravel-peastone, this is a mistake as well.

'Many, many consumers 'THINK' they have waterproofed basements, when in fact they simply have been damproofed....damproofing is by no means a true waterproofing membrane'

How do/where can termites enter your house?

'Foundation CRACKS provide hidden ENTRY Points for Termites'

Scroll down a bit to -A Little Crack Can Mean Big Problems



Especially Q `n A..... 1 and 5

What is NOT the approach recommended

What is the PREFERRED method?

-Basement Walls...Cause/Resolution

What to backfill with?


03:34AM | 07/11/07
Member Since: 03/05/04
301 lifetime posts


09:06PM | 08/03/07
Member Since: 08/03/07
1 lifetime posts
Hey there, I am building a new home and investigating the different methods to waterproof the basement. I wanted to hear your opinion on the best methods to take to waterproof my basement.




09:20AM | 08/05/07
Member Since: 03/05/04
301 lifetime posts
applying thick asphalt over walls and onto footings, apply 6 mil visqueen or if you rather some protection board over the asphalt and, if its going to be poured walls then pack all rod holes w/hydraulic cement, not with a cork or two as many builders/codes would have it.

haul excavated soil away,this also means haul all other junk with it...wood,cans,broken bricks/blocks,roots etc.

backfill from footings all the way up to within 3-6" of finished grade with peastone/gravel.

"if" will be below sea level,down in a valley or built on- top/near an underground spring then it would be wise to have a good sump pump/pit installed to deal with excess water under the floor.

damproofing walls is NOWHERE near Waterproofing so, don`t let em fool ya. using reinforcing rod/steel in walls-concrete is also a must.

when they backfill, you don`t want a careless equipment operator, easy-does-it when backfilling against walls!


08:43AM | 12/29/12
I have a question, hopefully not too silly.
In the basement, right under the window, water leaked in where the floor meets the wall.
The side of the house has a couple feet to the neighbors driveway which is higher.

I immediately assumed there might be cracks around the window.
I double checked the entire side outside, filled small cracks around the window, (dug about 2' down & the wall was solid/no holes) raised up our side and created a ditch along neighbors driveway.
Inside we drilled a hole in the brick under window and filled it with that spray can foam stuff.

The ditch works good, I watch the water flow down to the gulley and there was still moisture but not actual water flow coming in.

Digging all the way to footer outside is not an option right now and at the beginning of winter we had a nasty storm, tons of rain and snow that melted quickly.

Inside now about 8 bricks down towards the sump pump we got actual wate flow coming in the bricks at the floor like below. So we drilled a hole again & the water rushed out.

My problem is we have a normal brick basement but on the outside there is another concrete exterior hollow wall coming off about 1.5" from the house. On the outside of the house , right under basement windows and all along entire house you can the the ledge from this extra exterior wall.

I have found holes in this extra wall in past & have filled it with spray foam and sand, the hole was never ending, anything I put in it dissapeared so I'm assuming this wall is hollow.

I'm scared because this extra wall itself can hold water against the house, I know I can seal it from the outside as you mentioned, but I'm wondering if I can literally fill this entire wall....entirely and if so what would be best to fill with.
I also want to know if it is ok to actually drill holes on inside and fill the bricks with something as well.
Such as filling the top 2 rows of bricks with spray foam or since the walls hold water, can I literally dumps bags of concrete mix either in the bricks or in the extra hollow wall, I'm thinking the powdered concrete will work its way around, hopefully fill whatever hole I have, then eventually when it rains, water will get in as normal, mix with concrete and harden?

I can't find any info at all about this extra exterior wall. I pulled the house plans and saw the house was suppose to be bricks, it is sided and has never been bricked.

Through research I am thinking that this extra wall on exterior is what the brick would have sat on, but I can't find out if that extra wall runs the entire distance down, but I am thinking it does because we dug once about 6' down and it was still there.

So I am sure sealing the wall would help but technically I will not be sealing the actual brick on outside, I'd be sealing this exterior wall which is 100% hollow and will probably hold whatever water it can get and then since I can't find any info on it.....
I am very curious how this extra wall fits in with the drain tile down their, I'm wondering if the extra wall is sealed at bottom and doesn't even have access to the drain tiles so it just holds the water.

If you have any info on this please forward to me, also that exterior wall is fairly thin, but The only places I have found holes is around the windows and along our driveway, otherwise no cracking or anything, I can send photo if needed, thanks a whole lot
Now, last summer the neighbor got there driveway redone, it is pitched even more towards my house


05:51PM | 05/24/13
Got a question, I built a house in fall of 2012. Used a company that waterproofed the outside of basement walls and put in drain system also. They used a spray on substance, then backfilled a couple of feet over the drain. I then had the rest filled up with 57 gravel to about 1 ft below grade level to allow good drainage. The walls have continued to be wet on one side of house. the downspouts have all been put in ground and ran away from house and it also has been sloped and grade is sloped away from house. Also installed a french drain around back of house draining it away from end of house. Foundation drains are open but block still get damp on inside of basement. Also the blocks were all core filled with concrete upon construction. Any advise?? Forgot to mention that on that same wall their are two screened in porches with concrete floors that were swung poured during construction to give extra storage in basement.


02:34PM | 07/04/13
I have a 4 level backsplit and we are getting water in my very basement we have had to tear up the drywall and all of our floors. the water is all around the egdes even the one under our garage. when we feel the concrete on the walls it is not wet. any suggestions on where it is coming from.


11:05PM | 07/21/13
I paid a contractor 8,000 to put french drains in along one side of my house where I was having water problems when it rained. He placed the french drains on the exterior 8ft under right at foundation. He also put black tar on wall, stones the whole works. The problem is I have water seeping in one corner. I used a heater, on and off to dry it out for the past 2 months, dampness or seeping always comes back and we had no rain for the past week or more. Please help, I don't know what to do. The contractor said he will not dig to foundation, that it not the problem. He not willing to do anything, Please help…..BB
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