01:11PM | 03/04/05
Member Since: 03/03/05
273 lifetime posts
I did not waste time with tars and cement, those products just don't last. Most DIY products are worthless and if they don't work the companies blame it on poor application or improper surface prep. Do yourself a favor and hire a professional with commercial-grade products. Email me with any question.


08:12AM | 04/17/05
Member Since: 10/08/04
12 lifetime posts
Hi there.

We are still waiting for it to stop raining in Seattle! It has been months since you first answered my questions about our basement, but we haven't had a good dry spell to even start the process.

At this point, we've only emptied the two basement rooms that the water is coming in and pulled the carpets back. We have fans on in those rooms 24 hours a day, 7 days a week to dry it out if water does come through. We also have the wet/dry vac in there at all times. I'm worried about the carpet, but it doesn't smell and they don't seem to be moldy. We are removing them though and after the walls are fixed, we're going to replace all the carpet.

I'm still wondering if we should use xypex? I have seen someone else say that they are going to use it. Do you have any thoughts on this?

I am wondering, we've used bleach on the cement floor, is there something else that we should clean it with? Also, I was reading kingvolcao's reply. I am wondering, after we use the thick grade tar, how long do you think that it will last us? Will we have to do this again in a few years? Let me know what you think. Thanks again for your help.

Take care,



12:56AM | 04/18/05
Member Since: 03/05/04
301 lifetime posts

I would use a THICK Tar...not xypex...we have used it for 26 years! If others want to jump on newer/less proven products so be it,i`m just pointing out what works,what holds up over time and what is elastic... thick T A R (roofing cement). If done correctly `n backfilled correctly, you shouldnt have to ever do it again,gl


01:06AM | 04/18/05
Member Since: 03/05/04
301 lifetime posts
...i have met a handful of you folks who post here and on within last couple months and most of them now know what i`m talking about. They get the fact that an inside method (j-hammer) is BS! They get the fact that many inside companies who want to sell you this method are way over-priced for a method that does NOT Stop water from entering the basement,does not stop-lessen in ANY way hydrostatic/lateral pressure and also will not stop-prevent mold,efflorescence,radon.

They also get the fact that ANY waterproofing paint product like Drylock will NOT stop water from entering through cracks in the basement walls.


05:20PM | 06/01/05
Member Since: 03/21/01
3 lifetime posts
You say you can seal tie rod leakage from the inside. What approach do you suggest?



04:06AM | 06/02/05
Member Since: 03/05/04
301 lifetime posts
most if not all states only require a builder to put/plug rod holes with 1 cork. The walls are 8"--12" thick, so having 1 lousy cork thats about 1-2" long in all the rod holes is hardly enough..ya know. Where is the correct thought-process from the states and the builders here!?!? can seal all/any rod holes with pushing hydraulic cement into each rod hole from the inside with the help of a 10-12" inch tool(or anything that length)to feed/push/pack the hyd cement all the way through or into each hole. Or you can use about 7-8 correct size corks and push them into each hole,1 after another, and then fill the last 2-4 inches with hyd cement. Either way, as long as each r hole is fully `n tightly plugged...shouldnt each home that is built have each `n every rod hole fully/totally sealed, for the amount of money for new home, surely the builder(their laborers) can do that and fit that into their schedule.

Why should a homeonwer 'think-assume' the r holes are done correctly, spend money on finishing the basement(dry wall etc) and then a few years down the road have to tear down the dry wall `n plug these holes correctly,gl!


08:03AM | 06/09/06
Member Since: 06/08/06
2 lifetime posts
There are several systems available to consumers, however, even if you are handy around the house your best bet is to seek out a licensed, locally established professional to install a proven system for you. These people are trained to install these systems to protect your home and belongings against any future damage. Check out and see the products and services they offer. They offer warranties that they will stand behind, and install systems that are proven. An insured professional will save you time and aggravation down the road. You'll thank yourself later.

Basement Technologies of WNY


11:12AM | 06/22/06
Member Since: 03/05/04
301 lifetime posts

INSIDE drain tile & Baseboard systems w/sump pumps do NOT, have NOT and NEVER will stop/prevent water from entering basements through cracks in hollow-block walls, one MUST go Outside to waterproof the crack/other wall penetrations to stop/prevent water. And so, they also do NOT stop/prevent mold,efflorescence,radon gas, termites & other insects from ENTERING these same cracks `n other direct openings into house.

Many Inside Co`s salespeople have Very little if any hands-on knowledge `n experience, period! And the installers for inside co`s are underpaid and also have very little if any FULL/overall knowledge of why basements leak, mold,radon,efflorescence,lateral `n hydrostatic soil pressure and what tree roots can also due to basement walls. Yeah yeah, the installers & salespeople are trained, trained to do what? Given the knowledge to do what? yeah, they learn about how to do/sell an Inside system the way you want, thats it, thats NOT any kind of education/knowledge of everything one should know `n understand to HELP homeowners who have leaks/seepage due to cracks in bsmt walls, bowing bsmt walls, mold,radon etc etc etc.

Geezus, the owners of many of these companies don`t have much if any hands-on knowledge/experience either!

Ask yourself this, why in the world is it that many Inside companies have 10,20,40,50++ Better Business Bureau COMPLAINTS in Just the Last 36 Months? lololol whats the problem? YOU sold these Homeowners YOUR Systems, YOU the Experts told them that is what they needed so WHY the bombardment of complaints? Some of us indeed KNOW.

Many homeowners don`t even follow through with their complaints due to the BBB taking forever and often/usually, siding with the basement company and NOT the homeowner. Sure, it`s the basement company who PAYS the BBB salary, uh huh. look, i`ve seen Many inside co`s so-called lifetime warranties, what you cover and, what you don`t cover.

Anytime, in any public forum or any courtroom, myself and several others would dearly love to go toe ta toe with the Inside only co`s. 25+ Years of hands on experience with, hmm, lets see, 0-1 BBB complaint...ever, in ALL those Years.

Hmm, do Inside co`s and their Systems lessen/stop/prevent lateral `n hydrostatic SOIL pressure and tree roots which, AHEM, cause basement wall(s) to crack,leak,bow,collapse inward? No no no. sorry. 6th, 7th para`s.... scroll way down, go ahead `n carefully READ

--A WARNING-- 1st and 3rd para`s

would you like some mold,radon gas, efflorescence,termite links?


01:52AM | 06/26/06
Member Since: 06/08/06
2 lifetime posts
There are several competitors that would like to claim that inside only systems don't work, however, the three inch thick three ring binder of rave reviews of our systems tell a different story; some of which were installed directly before the big 10 inch rain storm that hit boston. There are, of course, some jobs that will require work to be done on the outside; every job is different and needs to be assessed as a unique job, not as a cookie cutter project. These companies that install drain tile only, along with an exterior wall coating are missing one key target area, the floor wall joint. Drain tile will help with the problem, but almost all homes have this system installed at the time of construction. If this system worked as some companies claim it did, then I wouldn't be there 8-10 years later giving customers an estimate because their drain tile is clogged and water is coming up onto the floor. You wouldn't buy an outdated vehicle that had been produced the same for the past 40+ years, so why would you buy a product that has already failed you once instead of a product that had a reasearch and developement team standing behind it with a long line of past customers saying it works. I encourage anyone to check out either Basement Technologies dealer in Boston, or Rochester, NY and you will see that we are members in good standing with very few complaints with their respective BBB. Also, we are owners that have personally installed jobs that total in excess of $10 million dollars. Does that sound like we sit behind our desk and cash the checks all day?

Basement Technologies of WNY


09:50AM | 06/26/06
Member Since: 03/05/04
301 lifetime posts


another INSIDE Co. dumping on the public.

what a crock

Very few complaints? lolol what, since last month?

C`mon, Boston Bsmt Tech has 25 Better Business Bureau complaints in the last 36 months.

And your Bsmt Technologies of WNY Business start date is in 2005, hardly any time to make statements you do,lol. Yeah 2005 not long ago huh. The BBB says they opened the companys file in May 2006, got milk?

Hmm, many of us have 0 BBB customer complaints in 25,30+ YEARS!

READ the links, YOUR systems do not stop/prevent water coming in through cracks `n other Outside openings, so no why on this planet,can it stop/prevent mold. If anything, your systems allow a big increase in mold, radon gas, efflorescence,termites do not seal these cracks `n other openings in walls.

And, Inside systems do not relieve/stop/prevent Soil pressure, yeah...ya know what that is? lolol

Lateral `n hydrostatic soil pressure cause walls to crack,leak,bow etc. So do tree roots, gotta go outside to help people with these problems, hello?


10:01AM | 06/26/06
Member Since: 03/05/04
301 lifetime posts

shows the BBB has another one of your outfits 'Basement Tecnologies' aka Tri State All Dry Systems in Evansville IN with an.... Unsatisfactory record due to, as they say, unresolved complaints. Would you like me to post it? or yours in WNY?


10:02AM | 07/09/07
Member Since: 07/08/07
1 lifetime posts
unless you have a house built before 1960, or a limestone basement, 95 percent of the time, the grading of the ground isnt right! When your house is finished, the builders dont grade the ground and most people do their own landscaping. My mother in laws house for instance had a terrible water problem in the northwest corner. Looking over the basement, it was clear to see that the entire basement was dry with no mold, water marks, or mildew other than corner. Looking outside, it was plain to see that water was collecting in a pool at this corner due to the fact that the ground was lower and grading was toward this corner. Simply grading it properly, planting grass seed, and killing the mildew in this corner solved the problem without doubt. The basement is now totally free from water problems.


02:55PM | 07/09/07
Member Since: 03/05/04
301 lifetime posts
you believe whatever ya like...

got milk?


04:59PM | 07/10/07
Member Since: 07/09/07
2 lifetime posts
I've been looking to find a contractor that will discuss ALL options of waterproofing, including digging up from the exterior (although obtrusive and costly...) However, the only contractors I can find in centeral NJ are those that are selling their interior drainage systems. My wife is at the point of saying to the next company that walks through the door, "just do it, I don't care what you're gonna charge me, if you say it will work, I trust you..." I on the other hand am not so trustworthy and end up over evaluating major purchases like this, since I'm not an expert, I'm trying to rely on others who are, but with everyone walking through the door saying the right way to do it is their way, when I know the right way is really to eliminate the water from coming in in the first place...any suggestions???


05:15PM | 07/10/07
Member Since: 07/09/07
2 lifetime posts
I recently posted this under another post, but thought it was better suited here...and I apologize in advance for yelling....WHERE DO I FIND A CONTRACTOR THAT I CAN DISCUSS THE COSTS ASSOCIATED WITH WATERPROOFING FROM THE EXTERIOR? PHew, now that I got that off my chest, I feel better. As you know (and I am learning) everyone wants to sell you their waterproofing "interior" system. I am aware that the best way to fix the problem is to eliminate the water from coming in, but am having a hard time even finding someone to discuss my needs with. Any suggestions in the central NJ area? Thanks in advance, Eric.


02:41AM | 07/11/07
Member Since: 03/05/04
301 lifetime posts
who says it`ll be 'obtrusive & costly'?

First thing you/any homeowner NEEDS to do is....DEFINE where/how the is entering, i don`t necessarily mean where a HO see`s it on bsmt floor.

For instance, just because someone sees water enter onto bsmt floor along cone/cold joint (bottom of wall and floor meet)...that does NOT mean the problem is what many Inside salespeople tell you.

They`ll tell you its due to high water table or, hydrostatic pressure under floor or, clogged outside tiles etc. This is NONSENSE 90% of the time.

One can see/get water onto floor near bottom of wall due to...cracks and/or other openings on the outside, loose parging,open mortar joints,openings around bsmt windows etc.

THIS is where water can FIRST enter and, for hollow block walls, gets into cores/cells of blocks...stays inside blocks until it finally gets into lower blocks and....comes out onto bsmt floor. Has nothing to do with high water table,pressure under floor etc for most people.

And even when there IS a problem under bsmt floor, very often the build up/accumulation of water is due to a lateral line blockage or if someone has a sump pump already the tile that is under the floor and empties into the pit may have blockage. So FIRST thing they need to try is SNAKE, snake through the sump tile and/or, snake through storm trap cleanout.

But to get to the correct remedy one must correctly diagnose the exact problem(s). Most who sell/push these inside water-diverting systems do NOT DEFINE the homeowners problem/sourse, NO they don`t. They just wanna get everybody signed up asap and all too often tell HO`s lies-misinformation-FALSE CLAIMS to get em signed up for interior system, this is criminal in my and others honest/EXPERIENCED opinions.

Here`s a few pics of recent job, HO has poured wall, ONLY leaks in 2 different areas,front & back. Has some mold & efflorescence on inside of bsmt walls in these 2 areas due to water entering

you MAY have to CLICK "BACK" on the right side to view pics, start at pics 27 and work back

Some will lie and say the entire slab or driveway will be torn up and/or landscaping ruined....lolol, see the saw-cut? about 20" of concrete was all that needed to be removed. One bush a few flowers was all that was removed on front, put back in within 6 hours.

Inside estimates ranged from $6,000-14,500 and would NOT have stopped water,insects etc from entering the holes/gaps and hairline cracks in pics, gotta go Outside to accomplish this. Wouldn`t have stopped mold/efflorescence either.

Job was done for $1,550....which was MORE costly? Which was more obtrusive?


02:57AM | 07/11/07
Member Since: 03/05/04
301 lifetime posts
SEE drain tiles? NOT one thing wrong with them.

SEE gaps/openings under sill, which was UNDER the concrete, builder left em and city inspector OK`d this, its a joke!

SEE pics 13-15...scraper in I-joint, thats another opening that allows water to enter, Inside systems do NOT stop water infiltration through ANY of these openings and so again, will not stop/prevent MOLD,efflorescence,termites & other insects from entering. Won`t stop radon from entering any exterior openings/gaps either.

Another point, just because someone is licensed doesn`t mean job will be done correctly. Just because a permit is pulled and city inspects does NOT necessarily mean crap either!

How about this city inspector? READ LAST sentence.....

'In fact, the citys chief building inspector is a former builder whose Building LICENSE was REVOKED for shoddy construction'

Thats just wonderful, right.

Some folks have a finished basement so they can be easily be misinformed/lied on what the actual problem is. Bottom line, DEFINE HOW water is getting in. Many ONLY have 1 or 2 cracks on outside or, other openings on outside that allow water to FIRST enter, its all they need to repair.

MANY do NOT need any Inside drain tile or baseboard system, NONSENSE!

And they certianly don`t need a full inside perimeter system which is what many scamming salespeople try and tell ya, push on homeowners. Fact is MOST salespeople don`t have foundation and basement waterproofing expertise, NO they don`t. The game is to CONFUSE homeowners, misinform them


03:32AM | 07/11/07
Member Since: 03/05/04
301 lifetime posts
For those with block walls, THIS is where/how water FIRST enters into the cores of blocks, eventually coming onto bsmt floor along cove/cold joint. Its why many have mold or efflorescence etc on bst wall(s)

again, may have to click 'back' on right side to VIEW

SEE vertical crack at corner? This crack does NOT appear on Inside of basement.

SEE ROOT growing into crack? Roots can widen a crack.

See how easy water/moisture,radon,insects can enter?

NO INSIDE Drain tile or baseboard system stops/prevents further-future water from entering! lolol, thats IMPOSSIBLE because the only means of repairing/sealing these cracks are from the outside, of course.

Thats why many who install inside systems will place a partial or full 'sheeting-paneling' against the inside of bsmt wall, they probably won`t if there is drywall there. Point is to HIDE/conceal any water/dampness/mold/crack widening/wall bowing in etc.

READ 6th paragraph......

Most/just about ALL basement walls are NOT Waterproofed when built, NO they are not. Newer homes are at best Only damproofed, damproofing is nowhere close to waterproofing! And most walls are not backfilled with mostly/all gravel-peastone, this is a mistake as well.

'Many, many consumers 'THINK' they have waterproofed basements, when in fact they simply have been damproofed....damproofing is by no means a true waterproofing membrane'

How do/where can termites enter your house?

'Foundation CRACKS provide hidden ENTRY Points for Termites'

Scroll down a bit to -A Little Crack Can Mean Big Problems



Especially Q `n A..... 1 and 5

What is NOT the approach recommended

What is the PREFERRED method?

-Basement Walls...Cause/Resolution

What to backfill with?


03:34AM | 07/11/07
Member Since: 03/05/04
301 lifetime posts


09:06PM | 08/03/07
Member Since: 08/03/07
1 lifetime posts
Hey there, I am building a new home and investigating the different methods to waterproof the basement. I wanted to hear your opinion on the best methods to take to waterproof my basement.


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