05:03AM | 03/06/05
Member Since: 03/05/05
2 lifetime posts
We have added an addition with a basement. The soil is clay but we have a good slope leading away from our house. Never have standing water. We have had water come through our walls and stain them. The footer tiles seem to be working but water is still staying in the blocks. If we water proof with a sealer inside is there a chance that water will sit in the blocks and create bigger problems in the future. The outside has already been dug up and sealed twice. WE were told clay soil often times has block basements that leak water. But our fear is that the water proofing sealer will not solve a bigger problem we might have. any ideas.


01:37PM | 03/06/05
Member Since: 03/05/04
301 lifetime posts
you say that it has been "dug up and sealed twice"...right?? By who?

IF it was waterproofed and backfilled correctly it would Not be leaking! They should have...sealed cracks with hydraulic cement,applied a Thick tar over entire walls,then apply a visqueen over the tar,then backfill with 100% peastone from the footing all the way up to within 6 inches of grade and fill rest w/ top soil. Was this done??

I would never recommend any kind of sealer to apply on the inside to try and stop water that is entering the walls from the outside.

Any inside method(j-hammer,drain tile)ONLY diverts water that has already entered the wall...under the floor. An inside method does not stop water/moisture from entering so it also does not stop-prevent mold & efflorescence from growing inside the cells/cavity of block walls and eventually on the face of the wall.An inside method also does not take/lessen any Hydrostatic pressure off the outside of basement walls which can cause walls to crack-bow-buckle...roots from trees can also crack/bow a wall inward.

I`d like to try and help you, you can call me if you like and give me the entire picture of what has been going on over there,cuz someone screwed up and an inside sealer is not going to help you,sorry. 586-777-7973 gl


04:17AM | 03/20/05
Member Since: 03/03/05
273 lifetime posts
I agree with a few things stated above, but I don't agree with everything LicWater stated, his methods are a little dated. I would not use a tar method. A polyurea is best suited for the situation. The polyurea should be sprayed on. The polyurea will have a 800+ elongation rating and will withstand more over time than tar. Polyureas are expensive and cannot be found at **********. The equipment used to spray polyureas cost over 50K for a good set-up. Email me with any questions, [email protected]


01:29PM | 03/21/05
Member Since: 03/05/05
2 lifetime posts
I am meeting with the contractor who was in charge of building our addition with basement. Since the water is coming through the walls and not on the basement floor, his only suggestion to fixing this problem is by coating the inside. He has already dug up and re-tared the outside twice. He does not have anyother idea of what to. Is there any legal action for us to take and if so what?


08:19PM | 03/21/05
Member Since: 03/05/04
301 lifetime posts
....before you spend another penny, here is what i recommend you or your contractor do--

Get a hose and place it within a couple inches of house/wall.....yes, lay it right at ground level aimed at the wall. Turn it on full blast and let in run to...recreate a heavy-long rain, only thing getting wet is basement wall, from top to bottom. Let it run about an hour at/along each wall or each area where you have a leak-seepage inside.

IF you begin to get water in basement then there IS STILL a problem/crack/opening on the Outside of the wall and the contractor MISSED sealing something!! I asked if he backfilled with all peastone and hauled all dirt/clay away...?

Did he use a Thcik Tar and visqueen on the wall, or did he use a cheap-thin-damproofing tar?

Anyway.....if you run the hose all the way around this addition and eventually DO NOT get any water in, after running the hose for 1-2 hours, then the reason you get water into the block,the cells of the block wall, COULD be....from Direct Openings ABOVE ground level. Like openings in mortar joints,loose/porous bricks...or even through-around Windows.

Run the hose........dont spend another penny on any assumptions! Running the hose-water will tell you IF you still have a crack/problem below ground level in the wall.
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