Latest Discussions : Basement & Foundation


06:30AM | 12/15/04
Member Since: 12/14/04
11 lifetime posts
They poured our foundation early last week and when I went to the site yesterday I saw a strange thing, they used cinder block to close in a large opening, it's the front porch area and I'm not sure if this is a problem or if this is no big deal. Can you guys look at the pic below and give me your input, thanks


10:11AM | 12/15/04
Member Since: 12/01/02
93 lifetime posts
I'm assuming that there is a continuous footing under this section of the wall? Can you say if they filled the block cores? If they did fill the block cores, do you know if they used any rebar? I'm not in a position to say for sure that it would be ok but people who would know will surely need the same information.


10:14AM | 12/15/04
Member Since: 12/01/02
93 lifetime posts
For what it's worth, I bought a 40 year old house that was 2 stories built on a hollow block wall and it had no structural issues. Since the gap in your wall is small I imagine it would be fine. I would think you could double up the rim joist forming a header and it would give extra support if it was going to keep you up at night. Again, someone else will probably have better information than this.


11:14AM | 12/15/04
Member Since: 12/14/04
11 lifetime posts
I'm almost positive they didn't use rebar or fill the block. The only weight that wall would be handling is the slab for the porch which would be leading to the front door.



05:41PM | 12/15/04
Member Since: 11/27/04
172 lifetime posts
i posted in your other post.

but call the inspector to check it out. this post you say no real weight is going on it ,but why would they need it there then. hope they are not going to support your brick front with this mess.


02:58AM | 12/16/04
Member Since: 01/28/01
171 lifetime posts
One concern is the stability of the cinder blocks. The block doesn't seem to be tied or mortared to the poured wall. If they backfill against the cinderblock without filling in under the porch, that bit of wall will eventually collapse into the space behind. Then you'll have a sinkhole next to your front porch.

What is going in to the right of the picture? There is a big opening and a small cinderblock wall in the lower right of the picture?


07:46AM | 12/16/04
Member Since: 12/14/04
11 lifetime posts
I've seen the blue prints, see if the link below helps, it's what my house will look like and the area in question is the front porch leading to the front door. The builder said, it's going to have gravel and earth supporting it, I'm waiting to hear back if it's going to have that on both sides which it better!


08:35AM | 12/16/04
Member Since: 12/14/04
11 lifetime posts
The builder said they will be filling the inside of the hole 1/2 to 2/3 with dirt and that it shouldn't be a problem at all. He said they do it that way because they pour the foundation and the porch foundation at the same time and don't have the form to tie them in together. My Translation; it's fast/cheaper for us to do it this way.....

Glenn Good

02:50PM | 12/17/04
Member Since: 09/10/03
314 lifetime posts
What I see in the picture is very poor quality workmanship. The block should have a 1/2" mortar joint between every block including the head joints (vertical joints) and these do not. These blocks were also poorly cut and not sized properly to maintain a 1/2 block staggered bond.

If this is supposed to replace a poured concrete section that is missing just because "they do not have the proper forms" then the blocks should be staggered by half (8") leaving the hollow cells lined up vertically. The cores should have vertical #4 rebar drilled and epoxied into the concrete footing. There should also be rebar drilled into the sides of the opening every 16” to secure the block to the sides. Then the block should be poured full of pea gravel concrete or grout.

There is no way the quality of the work I see in the photo can even come close to replacing the missing section of poured concrete.

It may work long enough for them to get their money and get through the warrantee period but what then? Get them to redo it right!


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11:27PM | 12/17/04
Member Since: 03/05/04
26 lifetime posts
with glenn....what is-was the problem with laying `n sealing the blocks correctly? Not much there! Also.....ANY rod holes should be completely `n entirely Packed with hydraulic cement...if they wanna use corks then they should pack holes with 10-12 corks,not 1 or 2. R. Holes that are not completely packed-sealed from onset will be trouble(leaking) in near future..and you may have drywall-paneling agst wall when they give way.You may have carpeting on floor etc. Have them done now...its VERY Easy ta do! All Pea stone-gravel is BEST backfill agst ANY Bsmt wall. And see if you can get them to NOT backfill all their garbage agst your walls(broken,blocks,bricks,wood,cans,tree roots etc). Sand is 2nd best. Back to porch area.....if the rest of the poured wall section under the porch is important enough to "damproof"...whats the problem with doing that small block section, what would it hurt? gl


03:57PM | 01/09/05
Member Since: 11/06/02
1278 lifetime posts
I'm usually the one to get anal about things like this but not here. This is only a support wall for the porch. Sometihng to get down below frost level. i have built archy specified jobs with a separate wall just like this. There is no need even to have that block there except to separate teh ompactable draining soild within the section from the friable drainage material on the outside of the wall. Teh gaps could be intentional so that in the even water finds a way to the interior section under the porch slab, it can weep out to the drian tiles.

I agree it looks bad, but given the design and non loading it is intended for, I see nothing to complain about.

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