>>I also wouldn't bother adding a fence you'd be better off cutting on flat if your saw isn't the right size. Or going to rent a saw if you can just cut the scarf on flat with a bevel...<<
I ran a fence on my 12" makita for years and years cutting crown...worked beautifully.
>>Also you won't want to cut a scarf at the 31 on angle,...you want the 45 for more glue area, but more importantly if the joint is off slightly a 45 won't show,<<
actually a longer joint multiplies the misalignment and requires much more effort to correct...even for seasoned mechanics. Someone new to running crown will struggle unecessarilly with the method you've describe. Gluing and using brads to secure a mitre works at 15 or 45 degrees. The 45 degree method is only a preference much like some carpenters preferring to use a sawbuck to do trim vrs a contemporary compound crosscut saw. The logic is obvious, the results the same with less effort. The 32 degree option I use, and suggest, is a compromise between glue surface area and installation time/effort...with professional results.
>>and when the piece shrinks it won't seperate but slide on the joint <<
glued and pinned joints don't move ;-).. if they're done adequately...the shrinkage will pull from the opposite end. And crown/moulding doesn't slide on a 45 degree joint...if it shrinks apart, the whole joint opens.
>>Other than that some great tips... except snapping in two ends coped, you'll want to work around the room, from straight cuts to coped corners.. it's easier to keep the crown at the proper spring angle and deal with the irregularities you'll inevitably find in the ceiling plane...<<
I started out doing it the old school way also.. but learned to produce a superior result in much less time. One obvious problem with working around the room in this manner is the difficulty in adjusting the mouldings angle when fitting a coped joint.. unless of course your pieces are lose fitting (cut short).. which will result in opened cope joints especially after a short period of time (shrinkage). In fact it's far easier to install a double coped joint than the method you've described... I show guys the method I use,that have been doing crown for years in the manner you describe, and they shake their head in disbelief because of the simplicity and superior results in less time. But some grognards will just never change ;-)
>>use a short crown for the coped corners then go back once you have that next run up..<<
using a test peice only gets your moulding angle "close"... even after using a short test piece, adjustment will be necessary. So nothing is gained. I find I only need a 3 ft test peiece when doing outside corners in a high foyer on a very long piece...I never use a test piece on inside corners.
Nevertheless even when you work around the room as you've mentioned you will inevitably end up with a piece that needs to be double coped...the installation process is much faster and has superior results when using double coped ends and springing the moulding into place between pieces... even with shrinkage, the joint stays tight.
>>also if it's a new home with trusses you'll want to use the backer as in the tutorial.<<
just use a longer nail and run it into the top plate. A backer would be nice, but unecessary extra effort. Of course if one is doing crown as a hobby, then you could take your time and play around with all kinds of things that people imagine.
[This message has been edited by Cornerstone (edited March 31, 2003).]