Latest Discussions : Plumbing

sebring95

09:37AM | 07/29/04
Member Since: 12/19/01
29 lifetime posts
I'm remodeling (more like rebuilding) the kitchen in my mid 1800's colonial. It's a nice house, but I think most plumbing was added as an afterthought, so everything is a challenge. Currently the sink is draining through an outside wall and directly into the septic line underground. Not cute, but it works fine even though it's not vented.

I will be moving the sink and replacing all plumbing, including running a new line back to the basement to eliminate the crude septic tie-in, as well as running a new vent line into the attic and out the roof.

The main sink is on an outside wall and I plan to vent it up that wall. This will have a double sink, disposal, and dishwasher attached. I'm also adding a small vegetable island sink that is located about 8' straight acrossed from the main sink. The closest wall to the island is about 5' which means I'd need to loop vent over to that wall. Or I could just run a non-vented drain over to catch the other line running to the basement and let it vent up through the main sinks vent.

No codes/inspectors to deal with in my area, so I'm shooting for KISS and of course want it to work! Opinions?

doug seibert

09:40AM | 07/29/04
Member Since: 08/10/02
842 lifetime posts
http://www.studor.com/index.htm

plumber Tom

09:53AM | 07/30/04
Member Since: 05/10/03
801 lifetime posts
Ok each fixture is assigned a value called a fixture unit, the units are then totaled up to determine the size of the vent and or drain line. In your case sebring you can probably get away with a 2" VTR (Vent thru roof) The vegetable sink can also be vented on this line simply by inverting a wye. Don't recommend Doug's link on the cheater vent because if you ever decided to sell the house a home inspector would spot that illegal vent. I think your well within the plumbing code by running the new stack. Good luck, Tom


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