Latest Discussions : Plumbing


11:04AM | 01/15/05
Member Since: 01/09/04
7 lifetime posts
My husband and I recently bought new a faucet for our bathtub(3 handles,cold,hot,shower) and we r clueless on how to install it! Help!!


06:41PM | 01/15/05
The best thing is to read and highlight the instructions with the faucet. Some additional information will provide more specific observations. Do you have a three handle valve now? What is your water pipes made of? copper, Steel, hard or soft plastic and what color? What brand of valve?


09:15AM | 01/16/05
I have a three valve faucet now. My pipes are the old galvanized steel. The faucet is a PricePfister. It has everything, handles, showerhead,tub spout. It say 8" three valve diverter. I have looked at the instructions but they seem very confusing and I am uausally pretty good about figuring this stuff out.


09:27AM | 01/16/05
Member Since: 01/09/04
7 lifetime posts
I have a 3 valve right now. I have galanized steel pipes. The faucet I bought is a Price Pfister 01.801 series. I have tried reading the instructions but they are very confusing. I am usually pretty good at these things but not this time. I hate to hire a plumber to do it cuz I really can't afford it but my old faucet is not working properly and I need this done asap. Please help with any other info. TY so much.



02:11PM | 01/16/05
I can appreciate confusing instructions. I usually have to go through them to find what pages are in English and mark out the rest. Then I have to mark out the things that don't apply to the job I'm on or apply to a different valve. By then I need a nap.

I should mention first that it would probably be easier to repair your existing valve than to replace the whole thing. It's getting easier and easier to replace the stems and almost all three handle valves are good brass ones. However.

The first thing is to make sure you will be able to get the water back on. If something goes wrong you probably won't have water in the entire house. The most sensitive part is where the brass unions are screwed onto the steel piping. If you see brown spots on the piping coming up to the valve then you may want to stop before starting. The threads that go into the unions are the first to dissolve.

Also you are going to want a couple of pipe wrenches at least 14". You probably cannot do this with only a couple sets of large water pump pliers. Also you should use both teflon tape and pipe lubricant (dope).

You may need a set of tub wrenches which are deep set sockets.

1 The first thing is to remove trim pieces. Take off the handles and escutcheons. Sometimes you need handle pullers. You can hacksaw the handles off since you intend to replace the valve but it is better to be patient and spend several minutes per handle to try to get them off.

There is a 20% chance that something will happen in the trim removal stage that will stop your job. In plumbing things can always get worse.

2. Remove shower head and arm. The riser pipe from the valve will need to turn if possible. Look in the shower arm hole in the wall and see how this arm is secured if you can. Usually it's just a couple of framing nails which are bent over. Some times the whole pipe is loose.

3. Remove shower riser. Now you are at the back of the valve and the water is still on. If something starts leaking then you can stop what you're doing before making it worse. Mark a line on the shower riser so you know when the 90 up high is pointed into the shower. This is for reassembly.

Use two wrenchs. You must back up and not allow any tension to go to the supplying water pipes. The worse thing is to break them loose at the under floor connection threads. If the joints at the valve look bad then the ones underneath will probably be tender also.

Turn the shower pipe and see if it will turn out. If the pipe is secured up in the wall and you can't turn it then we can turn the valve itself by turning off the water and removing the stems.

4. Disconnect the brass unions nuts from the brass union adapters connected to the steel pipe. Equal pressure. One wrench on the valve and one on the union nut. With luck your existing faucet should now be free.

5. Tenderly remove the union nuts from the galvanized and hope the steel threads do not break. One wrench on the adapter and the other immediately below on the steel pipe. Do not pull harder on the union adapter wrench than on your back up wrench or you may be saying, "Oh S***!" A language often used in plumbing. Sometimes you have to change the location of your pipe wrenches because they tend to squeeze in and oblong the fitting. Maybe spray with WD-40 or something before starting the whole valve removal process.

Incidently, you usually cannot just reuse the unions because their connection nuts and faces will not match. Maybe 30 different styles.

6. Install new union adapters. You may want to stick a screwdrive into the supply pipes to loosen up rust that collects at this point. It's better to turn on the water for a few seconds and blow any debris out. Water mess. Use a second person or stuff towels over and around the pipes.

Wire brush the threads, add tape and then dope. Big nuts then the adapters. Do not get this connection as tight as it was. Use a pipe wrench for back up and pliers to tighten the union adapters on. You can use the second pipe wrench at the end but do not tighten the adapters tighter than the old ones. You can always retighten this connection later if you have a leak.

7. Install the valve. Get the shower riser at least started before tightly connecting the faucet body to the unions. Use tape and dope on the shower riser. Use just dope on the face of the unions where they connect and on the union threads. Get the union nuts tight to the valve. Almost as tight as you can. Do not break the steel pipes below. Let out your breath and pull the wrenches evenly. If the valve is not straight then reloosen and try again.

8. Trim out the spout with brass nipples and a brass 90. Galvanized is okay but todays galvanized will not last as long as your existing steel.

9. Shower arm. Patience. Getting the shower arm started can be frustrating. Do not force the threads. Use a flashlight and sometimes a screwdriver to help see how the 90 is pointed. A straight nipple may help you see where the threads are pointed. Sometimes you have to loosen the valve unions to get some play. Tape and dope the shower arm. If your pipe is loose in the wall then get an escutcheon with a set screw so you can firm it up at the wall.

10. Turn on water and flush the valve out. With the handles turned on and not having put the escutcheons on yet, and with the middle handle pointed down to the spout, and with the spout not on yet, Turn the water on and off for a few seconds to blow debris out. With the water being off on steel piping you are going to have debris that you do not want to hang up in the valve. Or then you have a project that can cost you up to another couple of hours. Leave the water on and go to the faucet and shut the handles off as the water is clear. Turn the diverter up to shower and blow it out as well. Wear a shower cap or move out of the way.

11. You may need to tighten the packing nuts at the stems. Tighten to elminate any leaks and to where you can still turn the stems. Too loose and water will start leaking sooner at these packing nuts.

12. CLOSE. I can't imagine the above instructions being any better than reading chinese but oh well. I want to again encourage you to consider repairing the valve instead of replacing it. Do the work when stores are open. Hardware stores not liquor stores.

In plumbing things can always get worse.

Post a reply as Anonymous

Photo must be in JPG, GIF or PNG format and less than 5MB.

Reply choose button


Post new button or Login button