11:13AM | 06/27/06
Member Since: 09/27/05
12 lifetime posts
I live in MD and got several inches of rain the last couple of days. I have a sump pump and tile going to the pump. I have one wall that is leaking, it looks to be where the block meets the floor. I ripped down the drywall to the exposed block wall. The drain tile is only a few feet away. Should I have the drain tile extended to cover that wall where the water leaks. It would be a total of about 15 feet. Or water proof the wall. I was thinking of using drylok fast plug along where the block meets the floor. And using drylok latex on the wall. The walls do have some old paint on it, not sure if it is waterproof. Will drylok work with some old paint on it? Thanks Dave


09:29PM | 06/27/06
Member Since: 03/05/04
301 lifetime posts

sump pump controls water-level under the floor, it doesn`t stop/prevent water from entering basement walls through cracks `n other outside openings/penetrations.

painting basement walls do not stop/prevent water from entering cracks `n other outside openings either.

so 'IF' that wall has cracks etc on the...Outside (often these cracks are NOT visible on inside of basement) then the correct remedy would be waterproofing the wall from outside, hand dig to footing, haul soil away, seal cracks with hydraulic cement,apply asphalt roofing cement/thick tar or the like on outside of basement wall, apply 6 mil visqueen over tar,replace tiles if needed(not with flex.plastic perf. tile) backfill with 100% peastone/gravel from footing all the way up to within 2"-3" of ground/grade,top soil rest unless, concrete/pavers etc one should backfill with all gravel.

To find out if cracks etc on outside of basement wall IS the problem, run a hose full blast a few inches away from wall directed at the wall, do not let water hit/splash anything above ground level like basement windows,bricks `n so on.

You`ll have to soak each 5-6' area along wall for about 30-40 minutes or...until you see/get water in basement on floor. Sometimes it takes just 5-10 minutes, depends on several things.

Anyways, if you get water in then there is/are cracks etc on the outside of hollow-block wall....waterproof. You have to soak most/all of wall outside to determine if all of wall needs to be waterproofed or just a section. Yes, often there may be 1-2 cracks/problems within a 5'-15' area and so this area of wall is all that needs to be waterproofed at this time.

If you soak along the entire length of wall, not a trickle now, you want to KNOW exactly what the problem(s) is, and you do not get any water on the floor after soaking ground for 1-2 hours then there isn`t a crack/problem in the wall and problem/entryways may well be ABOVE ground, above the wall. Could be openings around basement or first floor windows,doors-threshold,openings between bricks/mortar joints etc. Look VERY closely and fix/repair/replace. You can run the hose/water AGAINST the windows `n bricks etc to recreate a wind-blown heavy rain and then see if any water enters basement, know what i mean?

You can do whatever ya like to floor etc but when THE problems are cracks etc on the Outside then, water is still going to enter THROUGH them, especially on longer-heavier rains. With water/moisture comes increase chance of mold,efflorescence.

Often with hollow-block walls, water enters these outside openings and the homeowner will ONLY see the water enter INSIDE along cove, cold joint, on floor.The water stays Inside the cells/cavities of the hollow block until it reaches the bottom course/block where it enters onto floor.


05:56PM | 01/05/07
Member Since: 01/04/07
1 lifetime posts

Are you in the DC area? I have a water leakage problem and would appreciate your advice on to best approach it. I have received two recommendations: sump pump and waterproofing the outside wall. Please let me know how I can get in touch with you.


12:53AM | 01/06/07
Member Since: 03/05/04
301 lifetime posts
sent you e-mail


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