Absolutely agree electricman. Thanks Paul, I didn't think of BX cable, but you're right that is one way a 2 wire box could be grounded.
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One more note on the subject: even if....
"if all of the raceway and boxes are metallic, and connected continuously"...
"if all of the raceway and boxes are metallic, and connected continuously"...
Old metal can shrink, expand, rust corrode, and lose its electrical connectivity over the years.
[This message has been edited by rpxlpx (edited August 05, 2002).]
I have followed this link and see that one approach is to put a GFI outlet in the first outlet on a circuit, which would then protect outlets further down the line on that same circuit.
My question is to find out the way to identify that first outlet! Is there an easy way? How would you go about doing that in an older house?
Many thanks
Doug
My question is to find out the way to identify that first outlet! Is there an easy way? How would you go about doing that in an older house?
Many thanks
Doug
"My question is to find out the way to identify that first outlet! Is there an easy way? How would you go about doing that in an older house?"
Typically it would be the one closes to the breaker/fuse panel. But no guarantee.
You really need to do this. Identify all of the receptacles on a circuit. Then with the power off disconnect the one that you thing that is the first one. Then turn the power back on and verify it.
However, In general I don't suggest that you do this. It will often put lights on the GFCI.
You can just use the LINE connections to the GFCI so that only that one receptacle is protected.
In general you don't need GFCI throughout the house. Few things needed a grounding receptacle.
You don't want them on refigerators, freezers, or sump pumps. Too much possiblity of damage if they trip. But you do want a true ground for them.
You can use one to feed a computer or high end audio/visual equipment. But you don't get the full advantage of any surge protection. Surge protectors need a true ground for maximum protection.
Limit the GFCI to where you need them. Bath receptacles. Garage. Basement. Outdoors. And kitchen small appliance circuits. There you can often use one GFCI at the beging of each of the two circuits to cover all of them. But if the refigerator is on one of them you might need to use individual GFCI.
Also you can use one at the beging of the circuit if it is a multi-circuit (one neutral shares two hots).
Typically it would be the one closes to the breaker/fuse panel. But no guarantee.
You really need to do this. Identify all of the receptacles on a circuit. Then with the power off disconnect the one that you thing that is the first one. Then turn the power back on and verify it.
However, In general I don't suggest that you do this. It will often put lights on the GFCI.
You can just use the LINE connections to the GFCI so that only that one receptacle is protected.
In general you don't need GFCI throughout the house. Few things needed a grounding receptacle.
You don't want them on refigerators, freezers, or sump pumps. Too much possiblity of damage if they trip. But you do want a true ground for them.
You can use one to feed a computer or high end audio/visual equipment. But you don't get the full advantage of any surge protection. Surge protectors need a true ground for maximum protection.
Limit the GFCI to where you need them. Bath receptacles. Garage. Basement. Outdoors. And kitchen small appliance circuits. There you can often use one GFCI at the beging of each of the two circuits to cover all of them. But if the refigerator is on one of them you might need to use individual GFCI.
Also you can use one at the beging of the circuit if it is a multi-circuit (one neutral shares two hots).
