03:30PM | 01/09/05
Member Since: 01/08/05
4 lifetime posts
New construction, about to waterproof block walls for basement.

I want a Waterproof basement not dampproof.

I am planning on putting in two plastic drain pipes around base of walls with slits not holes and wrapping them with the filter fabric to keep silt out. I will be backfilling the entire area around the basement walls with gravel to help with the drainage.

I have some questions about sealing the blocks.

1. I would like to hear comments on the following products: Dry-lok, Radon Seal, Hydra Blok.

2. Is there a better product out there than the ones I mentioned above?

3. Should one of the above products be used with tar and plastic on top of it, or is it ok to use it alone.

4. How do the above sealers compare to just coating the wall with hydraulic cement, or should I coat with cement then use one of the sealers?

5. Most importantly it seems that everywhere you read on the net there is a different opinion about what sealers work and what sealers don't. Is there any objective reviews of the different methods of sealing a block wall.

It is very easy now to do whatever is necessary to keep the basement dry. I would like to do whatever is necessary to do this, cost is secondary to quality.

Thank You in advance for your help.


06:23PM | 01/11/05
Member Since: 01/08/05
4 lifetime posts
If these questions have been answered before could someone post a link?

I am not having good luck searching and finding the info I am looking for.

Mainly looking for best product to use to seal outside of block walls.


11:31PM | 01/15/05
Member Since: 03/05/04
26 lifetime posts
Heavy thick TAR is what i use. Where i live there is a local company that makes it but you should be able to find 'Dewitts' sp? Apply with rubber gloves on dry-dirt free wall at least 1/2--1" thick.This is what i`ve used for 26 years....NO complaints!


06:26AM | 01/16/05
Member Since: 01/08/05
4 lifetime posts
Thank You for the reply and info.

Tar seems to be the proven method and the cheapest too. This is good combination.

Do you usually backfill against the tar or do you use some sort of foam board or plastic for protection?

Have you used or seen any of the liquid rubber products? I was looking at this product last night:

Any comments on this?


08:21PM | 01/16/05
Member Since: 03/05/04
26 lifetime posts
we use a 6 mil visqueen over the Tar then backfill with 100% peastone to within a few inches of grade.I will never change over to anything reason to!


07:21PM | 02/24/05
Member Since: 02/24/05
4 lifetime posts
Hi Jamman

I am a Webmaster/Administrator of site you mentioned in your post.

Sorry I caught your post a little bit late, but if it still would be of use for you we just launched a new product for waterproofing basements.

It is highly effective DIY product which has been used in Europe for over 50 yrs and it is now introduced to the residential market in N. America for the first time. It actually Penetrates deep inside the walls expanding, sealing all capillaries in concrete/blocks so no water gets through. It becomes integral part of the concrete so we give a warranty for the lifetime of the structure.

You can check it out at:

Eco-Flex liquid rubber membrane is a wonderful product too, but intended for an Exterior waterproofing.

Hope this helps



01:39PM | 03/04/05
Member Since: 03/03/05
273 lifetime posts
I like using the Hydro-Blok product because I know it works. It is used in National Dams. Beware of internet, DIY products. If you buy one and it fails, they always blame you, not the product. Go with a proven product. Do it once, do it right. Email me with any questions. [email protected]


11:01AM | 03/24/05
Member Since: 02/24/05
4 lifetime posts
* Our product Aqua-Stop is a Commercial Grade Quality Product that uses the latest European technology!

* Our basement waterproofing product was tested by the US Corps of Engineers to a depth of 460' which represents 200 psi - is there Any other product on the US residential market which can withstand such a pressure? (a home basement is under about 12-15 psi of pressure)

* Europeans have used this type of crystalline waterproofing product on concrete structures around the world for over 60 years.

* Our product is PERMANENT! Will last the lifetime of the structure

* Here are just a few famous examples of the Crystalline technology used for:

o The Channel Tunnel linking France to England

o Main Stadium at the 2000 Olympics site in Sydney, Australia

o Maybank's new record setting twin towers headquarters in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia

o Bank of China massive new headquarters in Beijing

o Re-lining of vast conduit sections of the Panama Canal

o New public transport wharf facilities around Sydney harbor...and many more...

Now You can have this type of Quality for your own home for a lot less money.

So your choice will be...?




03:23PM | 03/26/05
Member Since: 03/03/05
273 lifetime posts
You state your product uses the "latest in european technology", but then you say it has been used in europe for over 60, it your latest european technology 60 year old technology?

I look at your website, you compare your products to other vague liquid rubber products, but you don't mention any brand names. So, the info is bogus.

Also, please provide proof it was your product that was used in the Channel tunnel and the other references.

Your website is one big sales pitch.


05:34AM | 03/27/05
Member Since: 01/08/05
4 lifetime posts
I ended up purchasing the eco-flex winter product shortly after I posted the early messages in this thread.

I put this product on the exterior of my masonry block basement wall. I applied the product with a roller and brush.

My only complaint at this point was the coverage. The product seems to be designed for solid concrete walls. The masonry blocks just seemed to suck up the product. I ended up using 4 coats to get to the point that I felt it was sealed like it should be. I had to order more product about half way through, It took at least twice as much as I thought using the estimates on their website.

If I had it to do over again I would coat the exterior of the blocks with portland cement or drylock and then apply this product over the top of that.

The product worked great and did not require the extra coats when I applied it to the solid concrete lintel beams.

I was attracted to the liquid rubber products for two reasons. The first is that they should seal out water and water vapor and the second is the ability to bridge cracks.

I will probably never be able to comment on the long term effectiveness of the product because I put a 3 to 4ft wide strip of pea gravel around the outside of the walls with two perforated drain pipes running around the bottom. The gravel is against the entire height of the wall. There should never be any water against the wall and I am going to seal the inside of the walls too.

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