02:10PM | 09/02/05
Member Since: 09/01/05
4 lifetime posts
We have high water table. Sump pump is installed and works well. Only visible water was seen when pump failed. Now we have back up and alarm. There is however moisture on walls, some floor cracks and one vertical wall crack.lan to finish the basement and want to ensure dryness as well as protect the house from any future problems. Everyone suggests inside waterproofing system. Drain tiles with sump pumps and weep holes through the cinder blocks. Estimates range from $9500-$14,000. We have a fair size basement wit? Is there any major difference in these seemingly similar products and does a brand name product really jack up the price?


02:35AM | 09/03/05
Member Since: 03/05/04
301 lifetime posts

With a home built on/in a high water table area comes the possibilities many other homeowners dont have to worry about and that is water coming up through floor cracks/drains as well as water that can enter walls through cracks & other outisde openings.

If you have lived in this home for a few years and the ONLY water you ever had was when the S pump failed, and now you have fixed that by adding a back up, then you have done the preventive measure needed to control the water level under your bsmt floor before it can rise up and enter through floor cracks etc...providing the sump is big-powerful enough, that would be the only problem. So, since putting in the back up & alarm, and it has rained hard `n long without any problems, sure seems to me yer ok, except the area(s) you state you have moisture.

Do you see this moisture on 1 wall,2..etc?

Is this moisture at near where you say you have a vertical crack? Or is it around where a gas line or other line enters the basement wall?

Many salespeople for inside water diverting companies will use scare tactics and all kinds of bs 'supposed good' reasons to extract money outta ya`s, thats how they make a living! The more they sell, the more they make...self-interest. It is my 25+ yr hand-on opinion(with many many many homeowners who now unfortunately know)that an inside method does NOT stop water from entering a basement wall,will not stop-prevent mold,radon gas,and will not help lessen lateral/hydrostatic pressure that is on-against the outside of bsmt walls, only an Outside method done correctly will accomplish this.


08:42PM | 09/04/05
Member Since: 07/10/05
13 lifetime posts
I suggest a battery back up sump pump for safe measures in case of power outtage. Also from my past experience with basement wp if you hold off they will come back with discounted prices. My first quotes on my 3,400 sq ft. home were 10 to 17k and when I waited 3 months they came back 7,700 to 11k accross all the companies.

If your basement blocks don't fill with water more likely you don't need to wp (you would see the efflorescence at the height of the water table if they did fill).

Doesn't seem like you need to do full wp. Try having all downspouts feed a few feet from home. Get battery back up for safety.


03:29PM | 09/05/05
Member Since: 09/01/05
4 lifetime posts
water is coming from at least two walls with may be some indication a t the third wall. efflorescense can be seen in the middle part of the wall up to fourth or fifth cinder block. My options?

1. leaave it as it is

2. Add sump pumps with larger capacity and may be porous buckets to drin sub floor water. I am concerned about the 2 isolated but definite floor cracks.

3. install inside WP system but does it really give me any advantage over sump pumps except draining my wall blocks (and how important is that.

4. Think of outside excavation and how much that may cost. Can I just excavate and install drains on the uphill side (house is on a gradual slope)diverting water. What about undergroung sprins or they are just a myth?



01:13AM | 09/06/05
Member Since: 03/05/04
301 lifetime posts
ok, let me back up for a still have some water getting onto bsmt floor along 2-3 walls??? Or...ONLY when the sump pump failed, before back up was put in???

Have you 'ever' seen water come up through any cracks in floor?

Draining the blocks of water is NOT going to stop/prevent mold & efflorescence. 'IF 'water is getting into the cells/cavities of the blocks from cracks & other Outside openings then the only way to prevent/fix that is an Outside method done correctly in ONLY those areas where a homeowner has cracks/other openings.

An Inside method ONLY...diverts water under the bsmt floor, thats it. It will still enter the wall through cracks that are left unsealed outside, so mold/radon/efflorescence are all possibilities when cracks and other Outside entryways into home are left open.

For instance...when a homeowner only has seepage from 1 wall, then thats all they need to waterproof. Lets say that 1 wall is 30' long and 6' deep to footing. It would take us(and should take others)1 day to complete the job and would cost about $2,150--$2,400(gas keeps going up so will cost of all jobs).

You asked about Underground springs??? Very real!


01:23PM | 09/06/05
Member Since: 09/01/05
4 lifetime posts
I have not witn anyessed water entering the basement. I know that i had water (about 6") in the basement when sump pump failed. Even through the very rainy summer last year in NE Pennsylvania, it remained dry. That said,I have efflorescence on two walls and a hint of it on the third. There is only one crack on the wall, a vertical in a corner facing the high side. Even though I see the floor cracks, there is no seepage through them. Mainly,the walls affected are the one facing high side of ground and the front. If I get an outside job done, do I still need to tackle the subfloor water or a sump can handle that. I do not want a band aid, but I also do not want to pay a fortune for something that sound good but in reality gives me nothing more than what I already have albeit with a life time warrenty!


01:01AM | 09/07/05
Member Since: 03/05/04
301 lifetime posts
ok, you have NO water coming onto the bsmt floor along/near the walls/I-joint. And you have NO water coming UP through floor cracks.

Ever since you had the back up sump put in & went through, as you said, a very rainy summer last year & had no problems w/water coming up through floor cracks then as long as the sumps work it certainly seems as though controlling the water level under your floor has been taken care of. If there were a remaining problem under the floor and-or a problem w/ the pump(s)Not being able to handle/control heavy rainfall amounts(last summer)then you would have witnessed some water at that time....make sense???

Now, sounds like that problem has been solved BUT a sump Only controls the water level under the floor, has nothing to do w/water coming through a foundation wall which then could create mold/efflorescence etc.And an Inside method does NOT stop water from entering through a basement wall either, will Not stop/prevent mold/efflorescence/radon/lateral & hydrostatic pressure.

You say there is 1 vertical crack that is visible from the inside of the basement. BUT....that does NOT mean there arent others on the Outside of a block wall. Block walls often have cracks on the Outside which are Not Visible on the inside of the basement....see what i mean? Just because you only see 1 vertical crack does Not mean there arent 1+ more vertical cracks on the outside, or step & horizontal cracks, and other direct openings on the outside which allow water-moisture to enter the blocks from the outside. others, either have a few cracks on the outside of your basement walls in the areas where you see efflorescence etc..(those cracks are probably hairline cracks/thin cracks-And--Or--there also could be openings ABOVE ground..around any windows/doors/mortar joints etc which allow water-moisture to enter at those points which then will drop-get into the cells of the block wall and can also cause some efflorescence/mold etc.There are several possibilities for Efflor...


01:19AM | 09/07/05
Member Since: 03/05/04
301 lifetime posts

careful about those Inside Companies guarantees, 'sounds good' & makes ya feel warm `n cozy BUT--for instance

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