09:52AM | 01/25/05
Member Since: 11/30/04
5 lifetime posts
I bought a house that's 150 years old last month. It's in decent shape and most of the house has newer windows in it. The window in question is a "new" window.

At the top of the window where the casing meets the woodwork it's dripping water into the house.

The problem is compounded in that there are no gutters on the house and we have a foot of snow.

The water is dripping down the inside of the glass- it appears as if the water is rolling towards the house somehow and then in through the top of the window.

I am assuming this wouldn't be a problem if there were gutters on the house. I plan on having them installed in the spring.

My question- what can I do to try and waterproof the top of this window to keep the water out? I looked for caulking at the top of the window, and don't see any, but can't see what's going on from the outside of the house. I thought about putting some kind of silicone caulk around the top, but can't even manage to get the window dry to accomplish this.

Am I stuck with a wet window until the snow is gone? I have towels on the sill and really don't want to rot out the woodwork with water damage. Help!! THANKS!


06:22AM | 01/30/05
Member Since: 11/06/02
1280 lifetime posts
On a temporary basis, see if you can sneak a slip of metal under siding and over window head

Sounds like this is a replacement window in old house. Window installations are prone to sloppy work by hacks and unknowledgeable DIYs. A window must have proper flashing around it, especially at the top. Siding will allow water into a wall assembly, which must be redirected out by flashing at the header over the cassing trim. If you do not see any flashing there, it does not exist and you will need to remove a couple pieces of siding to do the job right. Gutters are a marginal help, but more helpfull if you have no overhang on the roof.

Wind blown rain will still penetrate a wall with a gutter on.

Excellence is its own reward!


02:22AM | 02/13/05
Member Since: 01/05/05
83 lifetime posts
Not only does it need drip cap flashing on top! Most of the window manufacturers require a backer rod and caulking/sealant around the perimeter of there products.


10:26AM | 02/13/05
Member Since: 11/06/02
1280 lifetime posts
That would depend whether it is a flangless insert, which may be the case for this retrofit.

Excellence is its own reward!


10:32AM | 02/13/05
Member Since: 01/05/05
83 lifetime posts
That is true! Shouldn't they have sealant to?


11:31AM | 02/13/05
Member Since: 11/06/02
1280 lifetime posts
with a flange and proper attention to wrap and flashing, no sealant is needed, and some locations it can do more harm than good.

Excellence is its own reward!


08:28AM | 02/18/05
Member Since: 03/13/00
1675 lifetime posts
Suggest you check with your homeowner's insurance for repair of damage done.


01:38PM | 02/18/05
Member Since: 02/17/05
6 lifetime posts
pull off the inside casing at the top and try to pull out all the insulation and then spray foam insulation along the top.put the pink insulation back in but don't push in all the way in.Just put it along the front edge to keep the foam from coming back out and making a big mess. then along the top of the window on the out side put a good bead of caulking across the top.


04:00PM | 02/18/05
Member Since: 01/05/05
83 lifetime posts
You better check with the manufactures installation instructions first. Most say not to use spray foam!


01:11PM | 09/09/14
You're f*cked. Sell the house.
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